jim
558 posts
Dec 16, 2010
8:59 AM
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I will bring up the thread again.
Who does full-slot embossing and what tools/methods are used?
I am currently preparing an HD video about this.
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www.truechromatic.com
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tookatooka
1939 posts
Dec 16, 2010
10:22 AM
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I do 3/4 slot embossing and I use the rounded end of a teaspoon handle. To be perfectly honest, I haven't found any real great improvement. Maybe my playing technique doesn't require a perfectly airtight harp yet. I doubt whether I would do the full-slot thing as I find gapping to be the most effective mod I could do to a harp at present.
I'd be interested to see a vid about it though and evidence that it is actually worthwhile.
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ridge
138 posts
Dec 16, 2010
10:28 AM
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I attempt to emboss the whole slot as I mentioned in your previous thread about a harp tool kit.
I go about it by swiveling the reed clockwise and counterclockwise relative to its centered position over the slot. I use a small socket to emboss about 3/4 of the slot at the same time. The last 1/4 is done with a sharp pointy tool that I have to do each side individually with.
My results with this method are inconsistent, but it's the best way I've tried so far. Sometimes I think I get it too tight by the rivet end and it causes a weird squeal on 2 draw bend that doesn't exist prior. Unembossing doesn't appear to correct this issue that I cause.
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jim
563 posts
Dec 16, 2010
10:37 AM
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Some goods have security bar-codes attached to them. If you open one - you'll find several very thin metal stripes inside. Those are perfect for removing all excessive embossing.
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www.truechromatic.com
Last Edited by on Dec 16, 2010 10:37 AM
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jim
564 posts
Dec 16, 2010
11:29 AM
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Uploaded a video...
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www.truechromatic.com
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tookatooka
1940 posts
Dec 16, 2010
12:25 PM
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Great! Where?
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jim
566 posts
Dec 16, 2010
12:27 PM
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On my forum. I don't know how to put a video here from my vimeo channel.
http://www.harperclub.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&p=404#p404
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www.truechromatic.com
Last Edited by on Dec 16, 2010 12:28 PM
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MrVerylongusername
1414 posts
Dec 16, 2010
12:30 PM
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Really? You couldn't figure out what the big button marked "embed" does?
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tookatooka
1941 posts
Dec 16, 2010
1:02 PM
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Nice clear video jim but to be honest I couldn't spend a week doing all that.
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jim
568 posts
Dec 16, 2010
1:05 PM
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@tookatooka
thanks.
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www.truechromatic.com
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nacoran
3418 posts
Dec 16, 2010
1:21 PM
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Great video!
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Nate
Facebook
Thread Organizer (A list of all sorts of useful threads)
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Oisin
719 posts
Dec 16, 2010
4:43 PM
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Brilliant video Jim.
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Oisin
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6SN7
122 posts
Dec 16, 2010
6:07 PM
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wow, that is soooo cool. seriously, that is great stuff. many thanks
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Greyowlphotoart
230 posts
Dec 17, 2010
1:54 AM
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Thanks for that Jim.
Questions:
Have you ever found the need to close the gap at the end of the reed to improve general responsiveness and if so would you use the screwdriver indent technique?
Have you any advice on dealing with hole 5 as I have found the overblow sounds kind of dull as if the reed is not vibrating as freely?
What is the best method of correcting over-embossing?
Regards
"Woke up this morning. So far so good"
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CamiloHarper
50 posts
Dec 17, 2010
2:58 AM
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Thanks a lot Jim. Very useful information. I didn't knew about this technique!
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With some latin flavour for you, chico!! :P
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jim
571 posts
Dec 17, 2010
5:09 AM
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I think I should make a second video on that...
yes, you can close off the slot like this if reed's too short.
>>
Some goods have security bar-codes attached to them. If you open one - you'll find several very thin metal stripes inside. Those are perfect for removing all excessive embossing.
I feel I should really explain the difference between brass reedplates and german silver. I emboss them a bit differently.
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www.truechromatic.com
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jonlaing
146 posts
Dec 17, 2010
8:32 AM
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Hey Jim, thanks for the video, it's great.
What are the differences between the brass and silver, since you mention it? Most of what I work with is brass... i think... what are the Promaster reedplates made out of? That's what I've been working with mostly.
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jim
573 posts
Dec 17, 2010
8:45 AM
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promaster is nickel-plated brass AFAIK... Breandan Power knows better than me.
Brass is softer, and if you use the "trench-digging" method I've shown you'll get stuck very soon (speaking of the reed). That's why I'd just rub the screwdriver along the slot. Brass is very prone to creating burrs.
With steel reeds, that's not such a huge problem. Steel is harder than g.silver, and it frees itself when you plink it (of there are any small burrs - they will be removed with the movement of the reed). I think that's a great "feature".
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www.truechromatic.com
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jim
574 posts
Dec 18, 2010
5:52 PM
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I've posted some interesting custom harps close-ups
doubling it here for those who don't want to follow the link:
This one is a personal instrument customized by Slava Vinogradov (for himself) - MarineBand, Richter, key of "A"
http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/5452421/ ... v?h=b0e2bf
This one is a Seydel 1847, customized by Eugene Ivanov (i.e. ME), Richter, key of "Bb"
http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/5452421/1/jim1?h=6a6d20
And here's one more Seydel 1847, also my work. This one is my personal instrument, a "true chromatic", key of "C"
http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/5452421/1/jim2?h=e81088
p.s. the #1 reason why I post everything there is simply because it will stay there accessible after a long time, and will not be buried under newer threads.
p.s.2. gonna re-shoot all major videos in HD.
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www.truechromatic.com
Last Edited by on Dec 18, 2010 5:54 PM
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MP
1149 posts
Dec 18, 2010
10:20 PM
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-very nice jim!---------
MP
hibachi cook for the yakuza
doctor of semiotics
superhero emeritus
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jim
617 posts
Jan 01, 2011
1:17 PM
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Advanced embossing part 2 video is live on the learning center and forum (see "customisation videos" thread)
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www.truechromatic.com
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