Ryan
13 posts
Oct 26, 2009
12:50 PM
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I'm working on an old harp at the moment and I've read about how important it is to have your comb sanded completely flat, because two completely flat surfaces will create a vaccume and make your harp even more airtight. My question is how do I go about flattening my reedplates, they're both definately a bit warped. Is there any special method for doing this? I've read that this is something a customiser will do. I'd be curious if Buddha or ElkRiver Dave have any suggestions(or anyone else for that matter), but I understand if it's a trade secret.
I do have one other question regarding sealing the comb. On the marine band should I be sanding off the paint that is on the front edge of the comb(on the ends of the tines)? It typically chips off anyways when I play it for awhile. I'm just wondering if the paint will prevent the front edge of the comb from being sealed properly. As for the black paint on the other edges, I'm not really concerned about that.
Thank you in advance for any help you can offer.
-Ryan
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tookatooka
692 posts
Oct 26, 2009
4:07 PM
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I guess you are talking about Marine Band plates? I had a Marine Band for a short while and did notice that the reedplates were not true (ie flat) and they did appear to be quite soft. On the other hand I've played around with lots of Suzukis and never needed to flatten them out and the reedplate material did appear to be harder yet the same thickness (0.9mm)as the Marine Band plates. I suppose there could be differences in the makeup of the reedplate materials?
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Last Edited by on Oct 26, 2009 4:08 PM
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Ryan
14 posts
Oct 26, 2009
7:16 PM
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Thank you Joe,
I think I'm going to have to work on getting length of the plates as straight as I can(which is the main problem). As for the width, it seems like I'd probably need a specialised tool to do it well, but maybe I'll see if I can fix it a bit by hand.
So are you saying that you use a flat bastard file to file over the entire surface of the plates(on the sides that come in contact with comb)? I would have thought that would scratch up the plate, does this actually make the plate smoother? Maybe I'll try filing the blow plate if you think it'll help.
Thanks again for your help Joe, I'm always amazed at just how much work and refinement customisers put into harps.
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LIP RIPPER
129 posts
Oct 27, 2009
7:20 AM
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My Manji reed plates were the worst I've seen. I mean they were bent like a radius. After all the hype that came as a real shock.
LR
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Buddha
1105 posts
Oct 27, 2009
7:30 AM
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there is a reason behind bowing the reed plates. When I first start work on harps in 1988, I was taught to bow the plates. Its not as big an issue as many are lead to believe.
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~Buddha
Pennsylvania - H.A.R.P. (Harmonica Association 'Round Philly)
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phogi
100 posts
Oct 27, 2009
8:22 AM
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Buddha,
what is the reason?
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Buddha
1106 posts
Oct 27, 2009
8:26 AM
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some believe it puts pressure on the comb and helps to create a better seal.
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~Buddha
Pennsylvania - H.A.R.P. (Harmonica Association 'Round Philly)
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tookatooka
694 posts
Oct 27, 2009
8:46 AM
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Let me get this straight. For example if you bow the top plate up wards at each end (and the same for the bottom plate but in reverse) then the reed fixing screws at either end of the harp will ensure the centre of the plate exerts more force thereby increasing the tightness of the fit twixt plate and comb. Hmm! Makes sense but would have thought it is only marginal if you have say seven fixing screws. Think I'll pass on this one.
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Buddha
1107 posts
Oct 27, 2009
8:52 AM
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screw the plates on starting from the middle.
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~Buddha
Pennsylvania - H.A.R.P. (Harmonica Association 'Round Philly)
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ridge
6 posts
Jun 09, 2010
8:01 AM
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I've alwayd screwed mine in starting at the outer edges. I never really thought about what I was doing, so this is a great tip and I'm going to try it.
Do you use all the screws when reassembling? For instance, on the GM you have 4 screws going down into the draw plate and 3 going into the blow plate. Do you use all 7 or do you use some other combination?
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nacoran
2050 posts
Jun 09, 2010
9:24 AM
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My Seydel covers, and to a lesser extent Lee Oskars, are bent down in the middle. With the screws being out on the end it keeps the middle part of the cover tight against the harp real nicely. I imagine it's the same principal with reed plates, although their screws are spread out more.
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Nate
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arzajac
223 posts
Jun 09, 2010
9:30 AM
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I have a question about what Richard Sleigh does.
http://customharmonicas.com/r-sleigh/
R. Sleigh. Marine band kit:
Quote:
"This is what I do for you with the Marine Band Kit:
* Seal the comb and plane it to fit reed plates. Flatten the lower reed plate fit comb perfectly.
...."
My question is: Why just the lower reed plate?
Last Edited by on Jun 09, 2010 9:30 AM
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GermanHarpist
1536 posts
Jun 09, 2010
9:39 AM
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arzajac, the lower reed plate is the draw reed plate with the reeds on the outside. Thus you can sand the plane that has contact to the comb flat. This isn't possible witht the blow reed plates, as harpwrench mentions, as long as you don't remove all the reeds first.
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YT - Music isn't created... it's evolved.
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arzajac
224 posts
Jun 09, 2010
12:37 PM
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Ah! So sanding is the only way to flatten the reedplates.
And, in regards to what I was asking, I was wondering if it was because it's somehow better to do just the bottom one. But I guess it's simply too much trouble to do the top one as well.
But if you are going to do only the bottom one, is it really worth it? I mean if the blow reedplate is warped does it really matter how straight the draw one is?
I guess it does matter since many people seem to be doing it...
Last Edited by on Jun 09, 2010 12:37 PM
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isaacullah
1008 posts
Jun 09, 2010
1:02 PM
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It does make a difference, even just doing the one plate. Think about it, if you even do the one plate, that means you will AT LEAST have HALF the amount of leakage you had before (leakage due to air escaping between the plate and the comb). That half is much better than nothing at all.
But none of the reedplate sanding will make a lick of difference if your comb ain't flat too. Start with a perfectly flat comb, and then go to the reedplates. Your best bet is to buy a comb made out of diamondwood or a nice sealed hardwood (like Buddha and others make). These materials can be honed perfectly flat (and the pro comb makers ensure this for you), but also retain a small degree of malleability, so that there is a small degree of "give" when you affix the reedplates, thus making a very tight seal even if your reedplates aren't 100% perfectly "flat". Harder materials, such as brass or stone or glass, lack this malleability, and thus you MUST make sure all the reedplates AND the comb are perfectly 100% flat, or you will have air leakage. It can be done, but it's much harder to do yourself.
Yeah, your best bet is to buy a prefabbed diamopndwood or real hardwood comb from one of the comb makers. I know Buddha will sell you one for a VERY reasonable price. I'm not sure about the other guys.
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MP
463 posts
Jun 09, 2010
1:06 PM
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howzit harpwrench,
for some reason the draw plate seems to always be less flat than the blow plate on MB 1896s.
also,the bottom of the comb seems less flat than the top.
sometimes i'll take a harp apart and put it back together and see light comming through between the comb and the bottom plate.
every single time in the same spot.
the #2 draw.
it seems the comb dips exactly at that spot pretty often.
any advice as to why this is so would be very much apreciated.
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