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Dirty-South Blues Harp forum: wail on! > HETRICK WOOD COMB REVIEW
HETRICK WOOD COMB REVIEW
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MP
990 posts
Nov 14, 2010
11:32 AM
-hmmmm, where to start? OK, got it.

service:
matthew is totally cool. we yacked all nerdy about harp a couple of times, and once i had a question and he answered his phone while at a doctors appt.

he cut my combs on sat. finished them up (2 combs) by wed. mailed them fri. and i got them BANG! sat. afternoon the next day.-

price:
$15.00 for maple. $14.00 for lacewood(just discontinued) he also has a lot of choices if you want exotic woods. $5.00 shipping for up to 5 combs? i think.

i got 2 SP/20 combs for some ancient harps.

the combs are sealed with salad bowl finish. they are drilled for the cover plates and reedplate screws. there are 8 holes for the reedplate screws-for some time now HOHNER only uses 6 screws for their SP/20 assembly: to save money?)- and i like the fact that the forward screw hole is there on the comb tooth between #5 and #6 holes.

i put the maple one together and it looks sharp. sort of like the SEYDEL solist pro. there is something about the plastic SP/20 combs that look cheap and toy-like.( possibly because there are tons of harps out there that use the same design but are junk..like the bluesband for instance.) the combs are tall;taller than MBs for sure. the covers,reedplates,and comb fit pretty flush at the business end.

i played the harp for a while( a half hour) and took it apart to look for moisture. ZERO! these combs are flat!

in fact, they are so flat that i had to open up the gapping on a few reeds cuz they choked too quickly. i guess my plastic combs were a bit leaky?

do they change or improve the sound of your plastic combed harp?:
well, not enough to go, wow! the reeds are slighly closer to your mouth because that plastic lip is no longer there. i did have to adjust my embouchure since the lip was gone. i can hear a slight difference in tone since my ears are so close to the harp,- but i doubt a listener could, even if i could clone myself and be the listener.

what i didn't like, is that the wood is a little rough on the tounge. i like to sand surfaces till they are like glass. also, the teeth protrude slightly, and the edges of the teeth are not beveled ala deluxe or crossover combs.(but whadayawant at $15 anyway?)

i'll sand everything flush and beveled and glassy later. i can do that with a steady hand, a sanding wand with a very fine grit belt, and a Q-tip with salad bowl finish on it.

one problem i had -but it's a hohner defect or something i did- was that the covers didn't sit completely flush with the reedplates. this may be because the reedplates are not completely flat, or the covers are not flat because i opened them, or both. or maybe it's even something i haven't thought of.

i am away from my tools for several months (long story) but as i'm at a hospital- i have some micropore tape (3M), and cut thin little strips to fill in the absolutely hairline air leaks i saw between the covers and reedplates.
just a quick fix till i can align them properly.

in general, i think that if one thinks of these combs as raw material for cheap where most of the work is done for you, it's not a bad idea. aestetically, a pretty good idea. best buy one or two to see if you think it's worth it before outfitting your whole fleet.

i'd go with maple,- man it looks good! but they are getting bamboo, and they have cherry and bocote and walnut etc. etc. pretty soon they'll have undrilled MB 1896 combs too.

just to be anal, i might get some burts beeswax chapstick and draw on the comb like a crayon to make it even more airtight. maybe not.

see yah, M




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MP
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nacoran
3234 posts
Nov 14, 2010
12:28 PM
Nice review.

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Nate
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MP
991 posts
Nov 14, 2010
12:57 PM
thanks nac!

one more thing. slight tonal change. SP/20s have a sound i can only describe as URRH sounding. kudzu describes it as 'kazoo like'. (i wouldn't go that far, but i get what he means.)

this URRH sound is mellowed and the sound is brightened a bit.

because wood is less dense than plastic?

maybe, i dunno. could be the plates are recessed in the plastic too.


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MP
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Last Edited by on Nov 14, 2010 12:58 PM
nacoran
3235 posts
Nov 14, 2010
2:10 PM
I wonder about the width of tines and the gaps in between. I haven't heard anyone talking about how that affects the tone.

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Nate
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MP
992 posts
Nov 14, 2010
3:02 PM
i don't know if that would affect tone.
maybe it would.
i do think that i like a not too wide chamber ala MBs because of comfort. also because there is just that much less air to send in there before you get a response from the reed.
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MP
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MP
996 posts
Nov 15, 2010
9:46 AM
everyone through with the nonsense of the 'Seriously?' thread yet?

i don't post on threads i don't like cuz it just encourages bad behaviour by 'bumping up' the offending thread to first place.

let's talk harp. how about what Wolf and harpwrench posted?
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MP
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Swezey8
25 posts
Nov 15, 2010
10:15 AM
@ MP- Agreed. New to the forum and it seems like there is a lot of childish bickering going on in some posts...and the sad thing is those posts tend to get the most attention! Oh well.

Ordered two of these Hetrick combs for Sp20's thanks to your heads up on them. I'll prob post another quick review of my own when I test them out. Got a maple and poplar coming.
toddlgreene
2112 posts
Nov 15, 2010
10:24 AM
I'm glad you're digging those combs, MP. Thanks for the review.


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cchc

Todd L. Greene, Codger-in-training

Last Edited by on Nov 15, 2010 10:35 AM
MP
997 posts
Nov 15, 2010
10:52 AM
@ Swezey8 cool! i think you'll like 'em.

@todd no prob.----------
MP
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nacoran
3241 posts
Nov 15, 2010
1:06 PM
I wonder if the shape of the chambers would effect sound? You could, at least in theory, taper the inside part of the chamber and leave the holes whatever shape/size you want.

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Nate
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MP
998 posts
Nov 15, 2010
1:40 PM
you can make the whole comb smaller, and thus the holes smaller by flat-sanding the top or bottom.

you can make the ends of the teeth concave with the proper dremel tool- ala seydels solist pro.

just ideas.
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MP
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Last Edited by on Nov 15, 2010 1:42 PM
nacoran
3245 posts
Nov 15, 2010
6:59 PM
I'm making a list of crazy ideas. Some of them might actually require illustrations. Once I'm done I'll post them. :) (Two-sided harps that aren't twice as deep width wise like typical double harps, covers with the holes in the comb instead of the normal open backs above and below the comb, and all sorts of other crazy stuff.)

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Nate
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Swezey8
28 posts
Nov 15, 2010
7:41 PM
Just got the Hetrick combs in the mail today! Quick review (cause MP pretty well covered it all):

Actually bought one but because there was a small blemish in the maple comb (back corner outside of the reedplates) they sent another comb free of charge! Nice gesture and shows a good motivation to please the customer. So two combs for $15- not bad lol.

They definitely are a nice aesthetic change to the SP20 plastic combs and there is a tonal difference to my ear as the player, but it may be due to the fact that the reeds are sitting slightly differently and they respond accordingly, creating a vibration response different than the norm for me.

Combs were very flat and sealed. Like MP notes, the reed teeth sat out past the reedplates and covers. Not a bad thing, just different. My cover plates sat flush to the reedplated with the combs installed so it may just be a case by case thing (and I have the backs opened up as well).

For $15-20 pick one up if you're interested. They are well worth the money. Can't go too wrong if you like them or not at the price. After a little sanding and touch up I think they are going to work well and I'll prob pick up 1 or 2 more.
MP
999 posts
Nov 16, 2010
9:01 AM
Swezey8,

re- the covers being flush w/ the reedplates-

i actually like the reedplates to protrude a little bit out from the covers ala MBs. of course MBs have those grooves in the reedplates to insure they do this, aside from lining up the covers too.

i borrowed some 1/72 coverplate screws(very skinny buggers) from a different harp and swapped them onto the SP/20. this created some play, where i was able to push back the covers so that they are recessed and i have a slight 'lip' from the reedplates.

i know some players hate those plates sticking out, but i kind dig it. i also like the comb teeth slightly recessed. (i'm wierd, i knooow).

sooo, when i get back to my tools i'll take in the teeth and find 1/72 phillips screws for the 20s.

if you use all phillips screws(SP/20s are slotted)you only need one screwdriver to disassemble the harp.
-
@nate
let's see some drawings!---------
MP
hibachi cook for the yakuza
doctor of semiotics
superhero emeritus

Last Edited by on Nov 16, 2010 9:04 AM
Swezey8
29 posts
Nov 16, 2010
9:13 AM
@ MP:
"i know some players hate those plates sticking out, but i kind dig it. i also like the comb teeth slightly recessed. (i'm wierd, i knooow)."

Yep, one of those players would be me! But to each his own. Makes a little less work for me :) I'll look into those size philips screws...would make it alot easier to just use on small philips screwdriver to take care of everything.

I'm kind of liking the slightly protruding teeth too. Different, but I know a couple customs that have the rounded tines on the comb so its a similar idea, just not as well done. Well back to work...
MP
1001 posts
Nov 16, 2010
9:41 AM
Swezey,

if i don't shorten the teeth, i might just round the tops and bottoms off( along w/ beveling the sides) to give it that custom look and it'll be a bit more comfortable for tounge blocking.
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MP
hibachi cook for the yakuza
doctor of semiotics
superhero emeritus

Last Edited by on Nov 16, 2010 9:43 AM
Swezey8
31 posts
Nov 16, 2010
9:52 AM
@ MP,

That's what I was thinking too (rounding the tops and bottoms). Would sanding them down work or no? Might pick up one of the cheap poplar ones to experiment on first. I agree it would make TB'ing a little smoother.
MP
1003 posts
Nov 16, 2010
9:59 AM
Swezey8,

like you say, i'd try the poplar one first to get accurate.(i have a Lacewood one i don't like the grain or color of-$14)

sometimes i get over-zealous and ruin stuff.

i would take my time and so avoid chipping. one chip and your sunk.
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MP
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doctor of semiotics
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Hetrick
1 post
Nov 24, 2010
10:13 PM
Hey guys, thanks for the reviews and feedbacks. I want you all to know that I personally inspect every comb before it is shipped for warping blemishes etc. It is very tiring but I want these combs to be perfect and affordable.

The tines sticking out a little bit. I have mixed feelings about this and I have argued with Scott Hetrick (Engineer) about this. I think they should be flush. We slightly round the tines, but I don't think enough. You have to understand I bicker back and forth with Scott about quality and features. Sometimes he wins and sometimes I lose!

I personally have replaced all of my special 20 harps with combs and have no problem lining up the cover plates. You just have to tighten them on loosely and be patient in lining them up.

Another tip for getting the tines flush with the plate. Put the screws into the comb lightly, then put the comb openings side on a flat surface and then push the reed plates down. Hold, then tighten. There is a little give in the holes.

Rough surface on combs. Mahogany and maple seep to take the lacquer the best. Some woods don't. I have been hand-sanding and buffing the lacquer after it is dry. Look for improvement on this.

Another note. The Bocote and Purple Heart Combs are very heavy and have bitchin tone. Honestly, sadly, we may drop these because they are really hard to work with. The Bocote is very oily wood so the sawdust sticks in the tines and we have to hand scrape them out. This sucks. The Purple Heart are great after they are sealed and waxed, but they love to break when you are cutting them. We get only 2/3 of the combs out of a stock of Purple Heart...the rest break....aghhgghghhg

Just re-launched out site last night. check it out

www.hetrickharmonica.com


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