Seven.Oh.Three.
259 posts
Jan 06, 2014
1:26 PM
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I started out playing Hohner blues harps and quickly moved to special 20's then Marine Band deluxes. I was pretty content with the MBD but for Christmas I received a lee oskar and it got me thinking about trying out a few other brands. Typically I hear people comparing the Crossover and Manji. But not too many people talking about the 1847. Why is that? I'm interested in trying one but not real crazy about the price tag.... At $100 it's a pretty pricey experiment. How does the 1847 stack up against the MBD/Xover? Is it worth the price
thanks in advance!
7.o.3.
Last Edited by Seven.Oh.Three. on Jan 06, 2014 3:44 PM
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HarpNinja
3661 posts
Jan 06, 2014
1:28 PM
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They are great harps, but not very good for overblowing without more than normal modding.
I have four I'll be posting shortly - all blues set up with flat sanded combs, custom cover screws (that won't strip), and complete reed and slot work.
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Mike
My Website
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didjcripey
675 posts
Jan 06, 2014
1:36 PM
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Can't talk about the 1847's, but recently got in to the Seydel session steels and blues sessions; they are awesome. Very airtight, very comfortable, great tone, and although I am not an overblower, I was able to get some overblows out of the box.
Competitively priced too.
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Lucky Lester
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barbequebob
2429 posts
Jan 06, 2014
1:40 PM
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The cover plate screws (as well as the reed plate screws) requires a Pozidriv #0 screwdriver, and the big problem with the cover plate screws on the Hohner MS series where the slot that the screwdriver goes into is extremely delicate and that's where the majority of the stripping happens.
The reeds are made of stainless steel and they're warrantied for 2 years and if you blow them out sooner than 2 years (stainless steel is a much stronger reed material than brass), it's obvious you're playing far too hard on them.
Most players I know who bought them when they were first introduced in 2007 are still using the very same harps right now (and most of them are gigging pros and that's talking 4-10++ nights per month and NOT open jams).
They were one of the very first (along with the Bends Juke) that came from the factory with a stock wooden comb that was fully sealed from the factory
The MBX is an excellent instrument as well. For low pitched harps like Low Eb's and Low F's, the 1847 and the MBT-Bird are the best two OOTB harps for those tunings by 100 country miles and no other ones comes remotely close to playing as well.
I have one that you can overblow pretty easily, but most every harp being made isn't gonna be exactly consistent for that technique.
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Sincerely,
Barbeque Bob Maglinte
Boston, MA
http://www.barbequebob.com
CD available at http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/bbmaglinte
Last Edited by barbequebob on Jan 06, 2014 1:42 PM
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jiceblues
244 posts
Jan 06, 2014
1:56 PM
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I tried the 1847 classic .Very good harp , worth the price .It's thicker in mouth than the BLUES HARP MS and the holes of the mouthpiece are bigger too .For these reasons , i moved back to the BH MS .But i think a harp player has to try a 1847 .
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LSC
569 posts
Jan 06, 2014
3:05 PM
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The 1847 Classic has been my instrument of choice for 3 or 4 years now. I think I've replaced one reed plate in that time and I don't even remember why. I fell in love with them the first time I played one. I currently have 14 in my kit and would not buy another brand unless there was some dire emergency that entailed having to purchase that day.
I used to get them direct but now buy through Greg Jones at 16:23 Custom Harmonicas. Although they are, IMO, the best OTB instrument available I have Greg do a set up and half valve which is rather like sending a great guitar to be set up by a luthier. The tuning is spot on and stays that way and the half valving seems to make the instrument even easier to play, though I have no idea what the technical reason for that is. I don't use overblow techniques but Greg said to try it so I did and have had all my harps set up that way. The 1847 Classic is a proper musical instrument and for the remotely serious player worth every penny.
BTW, I really like the shape of the holes on the Classic. Their sort of slightly oval and I actually have found them easier to play.
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LSC
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KC69
352 posts
Jan 06, 2014
3:27 PM
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I would "Ditto everything LSC has said in his post, including purchasing through Greg Jones. Greg installed covered supports on mine, for I have the tendency to crush cover plates. I purchased a couple of Solist pros from him, trying to keep cost down, They play fine, are very similar, but I still love the 1847 best. They take up most of my corral. Like Bar-B-Que Bob said above, I do play them too hard and blow out reeds too fast. That's something on me, not the harp. Its the reason I went to Solist Pros and brass reeds. If I'm blowin reeds it might as well be cheaper, but I still prefer 1847 classics.
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And I Thank You !!
KCz
Backwoodz
Bluz
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Seven.Oh.Three.
260 posts
Jan 06, 2014
4:35 PM
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Thanks for the input guys! Sounds like I'll be picking one up shortly.Is there any reason to spring for the Silver or Noble model? I prefer a wood comb (aesthetic reasons) is there a notable difference? the price difference isn't that much different..... The only visible difference I can see is that the Noble has side vents like the MB
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LSC
570 posts
Jan 06, 2014
4:46 PM
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In the beginning I bought one each Classic and Silver both in the key of C. Both were excellent but I thought the Silver was slightly brighter in tone. I started with wood combs back when that was the only choice but went to plastic combs when the Special 20s came out due to all the usual swelling problems etc. For me the Classic provides just that little bit warmer tone, I like the larger holes, and the sealing of the wood is perfect. Never a problem of any sort.
I don't have any experience of the Noble though I would guess that again it would be brighter than the Classic. I like wood. So does the Mrs.
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LSC
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eebadeeb
51 posts
Jan 06, 2014
5:20 PM
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I don't believe 1847 reeds are warranted at all, certainly not 2 years. A U.S. Seydel rep offered to repair my 2 month old 1847 for the standard reed repair price - $35. I also don't believe stainless is a more durable reed material than brass even though it is obviously harder. I've had an 1847 classic on which 4 blow failed after probably 20 hrs playing time and then 6 blow failed another 20 after I got the 4 blow fixed. I haven't broken a brass reed in more than 5 years with a lot more than 20 playing hours on many of the harps so it seems unlikely that it is a matter of playing too hard, although there must be some reason steel doesn't work for me. The harp is very nice otherwise, well made, very smooth covers, no swelling.
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GMaj7
326 posts
Jan 06, 2014
6:56 PM
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Regarding the 1847 combs, I consider all of them to be flat. The price on the polymer (1847 Silver) is the same as the wood 1847 Classic. However, the aluminum is considerably more. I'm not sure I see a marked advantage in the Noble and a fair portion of my customers do not care for the Noble matte finish, although it is extremely popular in the chromatic line.
Most customers prefer the polymer although it is prone to yellowing over time. I sell and stock both and offer a pretty liberal exchange out program for customers who prefer one over the other.
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Greg Jones
16:23 Custom Harmonicas
greg@1623customharmonicas.com
1623customharmonicas.com
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GMaj7
327 posts
Jan 06, 2014
7:01 PM
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Regarding the 1847 cover screws:
The older version used a Pozi male into a Pozi female barrel. Seydel has changed that configuration and now uses a Phillip head screw into Pozi barrel. Stripping is no longer an issue. I purchased about 500 sets of the newer version and as a matter of practice swap them out on all harps I service.
Repair/replacement of a reed is $12.50 + shipping if I get the reed plate and $15 + shipping if I get the entire harp. That includes installation of a polished stainless steel reed which generally outlasts the stock reeds.
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Greg Jones
16:23 Custom Harmonicas
greg@1623customharmonicas.com
1623customharmonicas.com
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GMaj7
328 posts
Jan 06, 2014
7:06 PM
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Regarding warranty, Seydel has several economical options for reed replacement/reed plate replacement and their warranty practice is not quite as liberal as it was previously. We look at a variety of factors when considering whether to warranty a harp.
Some advanced players have expressed interest in a narrower profile on their harps which they feel helps in playing faster OB/OD runs. Some have found that the Solist Pro covers help out in this and I concur with that. I offer the 1847 with choice of covers (Session full-length, 1847 open style, Solist Pro half-flat)
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Greg Jones
16:23 Custom Harmonicas
greg@1623customharmonicas.com
1623customharmonicas.com
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HarpNinja
3662 posts
Jan 06, 2014
7:06 PM
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How are you measuring flat, as I would disagree regarding both the maple and polymer. They aren't bad, but they aren't flat.
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Mike
My Website
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GMaj7
329 posts
Jan 06, 2014
7:26 PM
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Generally speaking I just lay them up against a stainless steel jewelers plate and see if they rock. I also hold the completed harp up against the light and look for gaps.
I guess it is possible some might find them flawed but I've sold and/or repaired about 2,000 of them and nobody has returned one claiming a defective comb. There are some extreme players out there who might see this as significant but I don't in my experience and wouldn't offer flattening as an add-on service.
Blue Moon is now offering after-market Seydel combs and like the other makers before them.. I'm sure the quality is there, as well.
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Greg Jones
16:23 Custom Harmonicas
greg@1623customharmonicas.com
1623customharmonicas.com
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arzajac
1246 posts
Jan 06, 2014
7:45 PM
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I sell quite a few of my Dark 1847 combs to customisers around the world. The stock comb is pretty good, but no mass-produced comb is as flat as it can be.
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Custom overblow harps. Harmonica service and repair.
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1847
1451 posts
Jan 06, 2014
9:05 PM
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if you take a magnifying glass and look at the polymer comb,it is very easy to see the imperfections
i would not consider it to be flat.
however it is a simple fix.
some 400 grit sand paper on a piece of glass..voile
having said all that, 99 per cent of all my harmonicas have been totally stock.
i just ordered my first custom harmonica
25 dollars out the door cant wait to try it out
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i get a lot of request when i play my harmonica
"but i play it anyway"
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Gipsy
39 posts
Jan 07, 2014
12:48 AM
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I've got several 1847 silvers, including a low C and a low C paddy richter. I'd echo most everything positive that has already been posted. Like some other peeps here I have my harps checked out at purchase, but as I'm in Europe I buy from Ben Bouman and he sets them up for me, and I really appreciate his work.
I'm not an over blower, but I recently bought one of Ben's full overblow and overdraw set up harps, and so far I've managed to hit the 5 and 6 overblows, and the 7 overdraw. I'm sure this is mostly due to the quality of the harp set up.
One thing I did with this last harp was to fit a Seydel Favorit aluminium comb, and I'm preferring it to the silvers, and the classics. It has the same slightly oval shape of the holes of the classic comb, but the extra weight makes it feel special in the hands.
Last Edited by Gipsy on Jan 07, 2014 12:50 AM
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arzajac
1247 posts
Jan 07, 2014
4:34 AM
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"How does the 1847 stack up against the MBD/Xover? Is it worth the price"
An out-of-the-box 1847 Classic is louder than a stock Marine Band (1896, XO, Deluxe...) The tuning is slightly more consistent. The setup is the same as a MB - hit and miss in terms of reed profiles, gapping and airtightness. About 7 out of every 10 are fine. About one out of ten are really good. That's about it.
A custom Marine Band (any type) is louder than a stock 1847.
A custom 1847 is slightly louder than a custom MB.
Is an 1847 worth the extra price? Maybe, it depends what you expect from a stock harp. Stainless is different than brass, but not necessarily better. I replace quite a few stainless reeds. They are not unbreakable.
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Custom overblow harps. Harmonica service and repair.
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jiceblues
245 posts
Jan 07, 2014
5:06 AM
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I broke my last reed 5 years ago , on a BH MS , and , in fact , the reed didn't brake , but died with age (poor sound) .Stainless steel don't rust , but can brake , i think .
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HarpNinja
3663 posts
Jan 07, 2014
6:28 AM
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Here's a pick of a stock maple 1847 comb against a flat surface. If you attached reed plates, you would not see leaks against a back light. I will take more pics tonight. I broke my light box and my new one doesn't come until tomorrow, so I have a hair of spare time.
It is VERY common to see bowing like this on wood combs, and it is often VERY hard to eliminate. With finger pressure, you can generally eliminate the gaps against a flat surface, but I wouldn't, then, define the comb as flat.
Think about a Hohner MB-style harp. If you look at the harp stock holding it like this to the light, you often see gaps on holes 1-2. Players looking to eliminate this often flat sand the draw plate and that frequently can pass the assembled light test.
However, sometimes the issue is the basic design of the comb, which can make it pretty much impossible to eliminate those gaps. A couple of years ago, when searching for an after market comb supplier, I ran into this issue all the time. One person took the feedback and redesigned the MB-style comb to be more forgiving of the 1-3 hole draw rivets without compromising the comb for further leaks.
Recently, I got a ordered and paid for a nice comb from a maker. The comb was not flat and no amount of flat sanding the draw plate would help (the blow plate wasn't flat either). It was a new material for me and I had to ship it to a friend to properly flat sand.
When I got it back, I had no issues save the draw one showing a leak via the basic light test (assembled and held to the light). I tested the comb and draw plate and have concluded the issue is the comb design and how long slot reeds can lend to this issue.
This harp comb was for me and is definitely good enough for my needs, but I am sharing this as even many of the Hohner combs are "flat" via the assembled light test, although, they aren't. If it weren't for the rivet issue described above, they would appear flat.
***Sometimes you can sand and get the hole one leak to go away. This actually works a lot of times, however, due to any number of factors, it can create a time consuming PIA to eliminate.
IMO, the Suzuki composite comb is generally the toughest come to work with.
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Mike
My Website
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HarpNinja
3664 posts
Jan 07, 2014
6:30 AM
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In the above, due to the angle, it looks like the middle of the comb is flat against the block because there is no light behind it. That, in fact, is just the camera angle. I tried snapping a pic a few times, and long story short, it definitely is touching the block and "flatter" in the middle regardless of back light.
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Mike
My Website
Last Edited by HarpNinja on Jan 07, 2014 6:31 AM
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HarpNinja
3665 posts
Jan 07, 2014
6:39 AM
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FWIW, I really like the 1847. They are really nice harps, but harder to work on than Hohner handmade. They are also larger and generally thicker. They are much more like to squeal on overblows after basic gapping than a Hohner.
While their profiles are pretty solid, they are in between a Hohner and Suzuki...I am talking overall, and not just gapping. I happily play 1847's in my gigging set, albiet as back ups, and continue to tinker with a couple of profile "issues" in hopes of totally cracking the Seydel code for overbends (they just take way longer to work on than Hohner, IME).
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Mike
My Website
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GMaj7
332 posts
Jan 07, 2014
6:47 AM
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Some of you are outstanding players and technicians. I concede that you may find some defect in a comb. However, this issue is insignificant. The continual debate of this topic by experienced players compares to a NASCAR Team arguing their car is faster because it has leather seats.
A flatter comb isn't going to take an intermediate player from a bluesy Camptown Races to an overblow version of Autumn Leaves any more than my pre-War 300 Savage rifle is going to make me a Marine Sniper.
You guys yield a lot of influence in the harmonica community and I think you are doing a disservice to players by continually bringing up this insignificant matter.
Nevertheless, this is just my professional opinion.
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Greg Jones
16:23 Custom Harmonicas
greg@1623customharmonicas.com
1623customharmonicas.com
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HarpNinja
3666 posts
Jan 07, 2014
7:40 AM
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Pointing out misconceptions is not a disservice. While I originally referenced flat sanding a comb, I in no way went on the attack against the 1847 combs let alone reference them as defective...I did share, after your comments, proof of what I was saying.
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Mike
My Website
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Greg Heumann
2548 posts
Jan 07, 2014
8:29 AM
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I would think that, although a leak around a single reed chamber will affect performance (and flat sanding can fix that), bowing across the length of the comb won't affect it a whit. Certainly when you attach the reed plates and covers it will pull the entire assembly together.
I've played Seydel 1847's for the last many years. I like their tone for blues way more than many competitors, and they last very, very well.
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***************************************************
/Greg
BlowsMeAway Productions
See my Customer Mics album on Facebook
BlueState - my band
Bluestate on iTunes
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HarpNinja
3667 posts
Jan 07, 2014
8:38 AM
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It depends.
But like I've been saying, they are awesome harps. There are a couple of basic tweaks almost anyone who plays harmonica can easily do to improve their harmonicas - flat sand and gap. It doesn't take a tech or retailer to do that.
The analogy of flatness to leather seats is ridiculous. It is widely accepted historically that air tightness is a huge factor in making a harp play well, essentially second to reed profiles.
For years, Hohner was bashed for a decline in quality. That has been attributed to poor tolerances in how airtight the harps were.
Do you have to flat sand a 1847? No. Should you? Maybe. Will it benefit the player to do so, yes. How much? Depends. Is it just for overbend players? ABSOLUTELY NOT!!!
This extends into chromatics too, which don't bend. Good chromes are referred to as air tight and play better than leaky ones regardless of valves.
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Mike
My Website
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HarpNinja
3668 posts
Jan 07, 2014
8:44 AM
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Greg H.,
The comb isn't totally bowed. I didn't take the world's best picture, but I had to move my hand to get my cell phone camera to focus on the comb. It actually sits rather flat on the very ends. So it is sort of like a W shape, not a U. You can start to see that on the right side better than the left.
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Mike
My Website
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1847
1452 posts
Jan 07, 2014
9:10 AM
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if you want a harp to really play well
take it out back to the woodshed and practice
the more you practice the better that harmonica will
sound.
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i get a lot of request when i play my harmonica
"but i play it anyway"
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HarpNinja
3669 posts
Jan 07, 2014
9:49 AM
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http://www.musiciansfriend.com/folk-traditional-instruments/hohner-blues-band-harmonica-1501
So we should all be playing these?
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Mike
My Website
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arzajac
1249 posts
Jan 07, 2014
9:50 AM
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It's more like tires than seats.
Although I don't drive a racecar, I still benefit from putting winter tires on my car because I can control my vehicle better. It's safer.
...Back to the harp....
An airtight harmonica will afford you much more control no matter what your level of playing.
If anyone is trying to figure out why gapping isn't getting them the results they were promised, I would suggest to them to take a look at how airtight the harp they are working on is. It's fundamental. Would you drive a car with bald tires?
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Custom overblow harps. Harmonica service and repair.
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barbequebob
2430 posts
Jan 07, 2014
10:00 AM
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@Gmaj7 -- The change in the cover plate screws from Pozidriv to Phillips head is a very welcome change and it would be a welcome change if HOhner did the same with the MS series as well.
The 1847 Silver being brighter has little to do with the comb, but for the fact that the reed plates are coated with German silver AKA nickel plating and every harp, be it diatonic or chromatic that has this always tends to be brighter and that is also the difference between the sound of the Hohner Cross Harp reed plates and the MS Meisterklasse reed plates as well.
The stock tuning, which is a comprimise tuning is almost identical to 19LJI, and the only difference between the two is on 5 & 9 draw, which on the 1847, is tuned 2 cents flat (according to Seydel themselves) and 19LJI, those two are tuned 1.5 cents sharp.
One thing to remember for every player is that a better harp isn't gonna make a player with crappy technique become a virtuoso and most problems with any harmonica is largely caused by bad playing technique better than 80% of the time.
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Sincerely,
Barbeque Bob Maglinte
Boston, MA
http://www.barbequebob.com
CD available at http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/bbmaglinte
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mlefree
136 posts
Jan 07, 2014
10:55 AM
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I guess I'll be the lone dissenter.
I do not care for my 1847 Classic Silver -- at all.
I am a soft non-overblow old-school player who normally plays brass reed harps (Marine Band, Special 20 & Suzuki Promaster) acoustically. I've blown out so few reeds in my time that you guys wouldn't believe me if I told you. Mostly out of economic necessity but also because I like to do it, I customize and maintain my own harps.
Several years ago, with all the buzz about their stainless reeds, I splurged and bought an 1847 Silver in A. I've waited these years to say anything hoping he would forget, but although set up for me personally by a front-lines Seydel technician, it was terrible out of the box. The reeds were not the least bit uniform in their profile or gap so I set about trying to adjust them to my liking. Could not make it happen. Over a number of attempts, I found it very difficult to work with SS reeds. My old methods and tools were simply ineffective and frustrating to apply. I found the two draw reed particularly stubborn. There was nothing I could do to change it without applying so much force as to endanger it. Forget tuning it without specialized tools.
I never could get this harp set up to my liking. I probably have no more than a couple of hours playing it. So, after letting it set for a couple years I asked a world-class player friend of mine (who'll remain un-named) to set it up for me. Still a no go for me, even though he says it plays just fine. Different styles I guess.
So, if you ask me, unless you are a Greg Jones, Mike Fugazzi or Ben Boumann (or can afford one of their harps) I'd spend my hard-fought cash on 3 Special 20's and be quite pleased for years to come.
At least that's the way I see it.
Michelle
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SilverWingLeather.com
email: mlefree@silverwingleather.com
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jiceblues
246 posts
Jan 07, 2014
2:01 PM
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I noticed that about the MS BH :
since the comb is flatter and completely lacquered on the late series , the bends are easier to achieve and the harp more responsive .I am not a good player , but i can see the difference .Maybe HOHNER improved the quality of the reeds , too .It doesn't make me a better player , but why should i play on a bad harp ?
I tried to adjust the reeds on a SS Seydel , never managed to do it .
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nacoran
7478 posts
Jan 07, 2014
2:38 PM
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Steel vs. Brass may depend on your playing style. Steel (and titanium) both have a range of swing that they can swing through without any fatiguing. Theoretically, as long as you keep within that range they should last forever. Brass, on the other hand, will eventually wear out- the most minescule movements slightly stress it. I don't know, once they start worrying, which one goes faster.
I haven't seen a breakdown of the range of motion under different playing conditions, but it is possible that, depending on how hard they play some players may be staying under that threshold with the steel reeds and other players may be going over. I'd really like to see someone who knows how to take the measurements figure out if this is what is going on. It may just be luck of the draw, or confirmation bias at work, but people seem to either be of the opinion that steel reeds blow out quickly, or that they last forever. There doesn't seem to be much middle ground.
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Nate
Facebook
Thread Organizer (A list of all sorts of useful threads)
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arzajac
1250 posts
Jan 07, 2014
2:38 PM
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"I tried to adjust the reeds on a SS Seydel , never managed to do it ."
The same things that work on brass work on stainless. It's just that you need 10 times the force (I exaggerate, I think...) to get the job done. The force you need to use on stainless would destroy brass.
It's actually pretty tough to go from working on one type to the other in the same sitting. You need to be very careful. And patient.
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Custom overblow harps. Harmonica service and repair.
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jiceblues
247 posts
Jan 08, 2014
2:52 AM
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I am not very patient - lol-
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Rick Davis
2833 posts
Jan 08, 2014
9:32 AM
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I bought a couple of of 1847 Silver harps a few years ago to try them out. I liked the tone but the harp tended toward reed failure. And the reeds that failed were odd, not the ones I was accustomed to occasionally blowing out with Hohner harps. The Seydels are warranted but I got tired of sending them back and forth for repair, so I stopped playing them.
I'm not a harp tech at all. I've tried, but for anything beyond basic maintenance I am worthless. I usually ruin a harp when I try to repair it. So for me longevity and reliability are real virtues in a harmonica.
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-Little Rick Davis
The Memphis Mini harp amp
The Blues Harp Amps Blog
The Mile High Blues Society
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eebadeeb
52 posts
Jan 08, 2014
12:06 PM
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How are you guys getting warranty repairs? I would think if there is a warranty it should be intact when buying from PT Gazell, correct? I don't know why no warranty service was offered by the Seydel rep. This is the body of the email the official rep sent to me for a 2 month old 1847 in early 2011;
"New reedplates can be ordered, or that single reed can be replaced. I charge $25 to replace a reed, if you want to send me the harp."
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Seven.Oh.Three.
263 posts
Jan 08, 2014
5:37 PM
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Got an 1847 coming from Greg at 16:23. I'm stoked to see how she compares to these mbd's.
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Seven.Oh.Three.
265 posts
Jan 16, 2014
7:51 AM
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Here's my thoughts on the 1847. I bought a lightly used 1847 classic and had wind savers installed on the lowest three holes. First the covers are great and make it extremely easy to get around on. I love the slightly oval shape on the wooden comb. The harp is very responsive and easily on par with the Crossover. The 6 ob is there out of the box. I didn't notice to much difference with the wind savers but this is the first time I've had them on any harp. There are only two things that I didn't like about the 1847, One is the size of the harp. It's much larger than the marine bands I'm accustom to as it's about the same size as the Hohner MS series. The other thing is the price. At $95 retail it's 50% more expensive than the MBD/Xover which kills my interest. I would say I wouldn't mind having a set of them (and probably will one day) but just not today.
Anyways, these were just my opinions after a week of playing through it. I will say Greg at 16:23 was absolutely fantastic to deal with and not only put up with my hundreds of questions and emails but he encouraged me to "ask away". I felt like he really loves what he's doing and wanted to make sure I was 100% satisfied with my purchase. When I get around to picking up a few more I'll be buying them from Greg for sure.
7.o.3.
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scojo
447 posts
Jan 16, 2014
10:38 AM
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HarpNinja (hey man!), I respectfully disagree, at least in part, about 1847s not being good for OBs OOTB. To me they are as good as or better than any harp at OBs. Yes, they do sometimes squeal, but that is fixable. You've done it for me!
Yes, I am a biased Seydel endorser, so all of you can take it as just my $0.02.
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MP
3057 posts
Jan 16, 2014
11:48 AM
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Re Comb Flatness-
From Gmaj7th-
"You guys yield a lot of influence in the harmonica community and I think you are doing a disservice to players by continually bringing up this insignificant matter."
I totally agree with Greg. This near obsession w/ the flatness of harmonica combs is way over done.
The average OOB harmonica comb is plenty flat enough on most harmonicas.
players have much more important things they could think about. like practicing. learning positions. to OB or valve or none of the above.
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Affordable Reed Replacement
Marks Harmonica Tune-up
Click user name MP for contact info
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Slimharp
119 posts
Jan 17, 2014
9:36 AM
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Many have weighed in on this so I'll keep it short. I find the 1847 to be a little stiffer action as far as bends than the MBD and more so compared to a Crossover. Safe to say the 1847 will last longer. I experienced reed work to be a little more challenging due to the stainless steel reeds.
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