Zadozica
10 posts
Feb 09, 2011
6:49 AM
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In researching harp tunings it seems the old masters would have bought harps tuned to 7limit JI. I currently have LO tuned 441 ET and do not like it as the chords sound off.
I am going to change the tuning and I am thinking that 7LJI at 443 is what I want. So far in my playing I prefer to play solo much like Adam plays on his CD but not anywhere as good.
The other option is compromised but I am not sure how chords sound like with that tuning.
Any perspective would be appreciated.
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arzajac
457 posts
Feb 09, 2011
7:08 AM
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Audio Examples of Just Intonation and Equal Temperament Applied to the Harmonica
Basically, if you like playing in second position, JI will sound much better than ET. If you like playing in multiple positions, then ET will sound much better than JI. Compromised is in between the two.
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HarpNinja
1094 posts
Feb 09, 2011
7:13 AM
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If you ever plan on playing with a band at any level, I think 7 Limit sounds too flat when not chording. 19 Limit or a compromise tuning will sound better. Adams' harps are compromise.
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Mike
Quicksilver Custom Harmonicas
Updated 2/1/11
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barbequebob
1534 posts
Feb 09, 2011
8:16 AM
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If you're trying to do a more traditional blues sound, then 7LJI is the way to go, but it's not good past 3rd position.
19LJI is more versatile, but if you're going to go with harps that are in a comprimise tuning, there are several different comprimise tunings being used.
The ones CLOSEST to just intonation are in this order:
SEYDEL (their's is essentially 19LJI, except where 5 & 9 draw is tuned 1.5 cents sharp in 19LJI, they tune those two 2 cents flat)
MARINE BAND/SPECIAL 20/MARINE BAND DELUXE --- The one used on these three are the next closest to JI and chords won't sound quite as smooth as with Seydel, but they will be FAR smoother than any harps tuned to ET tuning.
The other harps using a comprimise tuning that's MUCH closer to ET tuning, in the order of closeness to ET are as follows:
SUZUKI MANJI
HOHNER MARINE BAND CROSSOVER
All the Hohner MS seeries harps (BIG RIVER/BLUES HARP/PRO HARP/CROSS HARP/MEISTERKLASSE).
If you were to play along with the recordings of most blues players onrecordings made prior to 1985, especially the black blues players, they're nearly ALL using harps tuned to 7LJI.
Comprimise is sort of best of both worlds, but if you like chording more, the ones clossest to JI are what I recoomend. Most players I know who prefer ET tuning RARELY ever play chords or double stops at all.
For years until he began using Huang harps (which was the first to use 19LJI), Norton Buffalo used GM's, which are ET tuned for single note work and the MB for chording because he hated the ET sound for chording. Once he used Huangs, he got sort of best of both worlds.
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Sincerely,
Barbeque Bob Maglinte
Boston, MA
http://www.barbequebob.com
CD available at http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/bbmaglinte
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Joch230
411 posts
Feb 09, 2011
9:51 AM
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Bob, your description really helps....putting all the info together. That explains why when I'm chugging and doing a lot of chords, why my special 20's sounds better than my Manji's and why the Manji's also sounds a bit better than my Golden Melody's.
Thanks!
-John
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chromaticblues
575 posts
Feb 09, 2011
10:05 AM
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Try the 7Lji with the 5 and 9 draw at 10 cents low. calibrate the tuner to 442 A. Go to Pat Missin's web site. He has a diagram of 7Lji and just chage the 5 and 9 draw as I stated. I always listen to the chords after. The chords have to be smooth. Then check the octaves. Then check the double stops. If something sounds wrong make sure it is gapped right then check it with the tuner.
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Jim Rumbaugh
402 posts
Feb 09, 2011
10:40 AM
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here's another OPINION.
It's what I'm trying for tuning THIS WEEK, so I cannot say it's gospel.
1) tune to 442 (as others above have said)
2) ET (because I play 1st, 2nd, 3rd, some 4th, 5th & 12th)
3) flat the 2 blow and 3 draw about 10 to 15 cents to get close to that "just" tuning on the low blow and draw chords. (I certainly do not care if the 3 draw is flat)
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intermediate level (+) player per the Adam Gussow Scale, Started playing 2001
Last Edited by on Feb 09, 2011 10:41 AM
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Greyowlphotoart
446 posts
Feb 09, 2011
11:00 AM
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I have recently bought three new Marine Bands and they all sound a little off in places, but there again I am used to playing GM's and suzukis (not the Manji). I have found a tuning reference chart for MB's and on a quick trial with my Chromatic tuner @440 every hole seems to be out, some above and some below the right cents adjustments.
I have only tried this on my A at present. I have used this harp on my recent post Dirty Blues Volume 2 and strangely enough it sounds ok with the backing track.
How crucial is it to have spot on tuning and does anyone have a tuning chart they would recommend for the MB
These are my results
Blow
1=+14,2=0,3=+20,4=+12,5=0,6=+20,7=+6,8=0,9=+8,10=0
Draw
1=+30, 2=+18,3=0,4=+14,5=-4,6=+12,7=0,8=+12,9=-2,10=+12
I'm blowing and drawing steady and softish, the chromatic tuner fluctuates a little but I've gone up and down a few times to get a mean.
Any feedback would be appreciated.
 Grey Owl YouTube
Grey Owl Abstract Photos
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chromaticblues
577 posts
Feb 09, 2011
12:10 PM
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@ Greyowl You would be hard pressed to find a harp that is what the tuning chart says it is. OK here is what I have found. We all know what ET is? That just means all the notes are on 0 on a tuner. A good comprimised tuning all the notes are perfect pitch (0 on the tuner) excecpt blow 2,5 and 8. These are 5 cents low. Draw 3,5,7 and 9 are 5 cents low. Tune your new Marine Band like this: blow 1,3,4,6,7,9 and 10 perfect pitch "0". Blow 2,5 and 8 14 cents low.
Draw 1,4 and 8 2 cents sharp. Draw 6 and 10 4 cents sharp. Draw 2 is perfect pitch. Draw 3 and 7 are 14 cents low. Now all that is the easy stuff. The draw 5 and 9 have been anywhere from 32 cents low to perfect pitch "0". I like them at 10 cents low. My advice is to try it at 14 cents low on one harp and 5 cents low on another. 14 cents low sounds good on the 4-5 draw double stop and the 2-5 draw four hole split. When I'm just playing and not thinking about all the stupid formulas 14 cents low just sounds flat to me.
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Zadozica
11 posts
Feb 09, 2011
2:57 PM
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Great info, thank you very much.
Is there a consensus on the type of tuner to use?
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chromaticblues
578 posts
Feb 09, 2011
4:20 PM
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I use Korg CA 30
Its cheap and works well once you get the hang of it.
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HarpNinja
1097 posts
Feb 09, 2011
7:30 PM
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Anything made by Peterson is pretty sweet, but expensive compared to other tuners. I think something like the Korg will work fine. You will want something that reeds cents.
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Mike
Quicksilver Custom Harmonicas
Updated 2/1/11
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arzajac
458 posts
Feb 09, 2011
7:48 PM
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"You will want something that reeds cents"
Yeah. Reed cents good. Reel Good.
(sorry, couldn't resist)
Harpwrench once posted a link to a very good online tuner (free). I can't seem to find it, though...
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Last Edited by on Feb 09, 2011 7:48 PM
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jawbone
392 posts
Feb 09, 2011
8:13 PM
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www.aptuner.com
seems to work very well - it's free
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If it ain't got harp - it ain't really blues!!!!
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Greyowlphotoart
451 posts
Feb 10, 2011
3:41 AM
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@Chromaticblues
Thanks very much for that. I'll give it a try. I will no doubt have to remove the blow coverplate which I haven't done before on a MB (nails and all that) but there is no doubt a Youtube tutorial somewhere where I can see how its done.
I have just found some very interesting free software btw on Seydels site which you are no doubt aware of, but in case you're not here is a copy of the post I made on another thread.
@Matzen
"Below is the link to some great free applications from Seydel.
First is a programme named Melody Recorder. Download the free software from Seydel and plug a mic into your pc. This programme acts as a tuner giving an accurate readout with the cents difference from zero (you can also set the frequency 440,443, etc., according to how your harp is tuned. It will also record a series of single notes you play which can be added one by one to the text bar and saved.
There is also a free tab tool harmonica notation program which is very extensive and handles mutiple tunings and transpositions to chromatic etc., Truly impressive.
You can also download the instruction manuals for both programmes."
LINK TO FREE SYDEL PROGS
It's also worth checking out this guy's excellent site as he explains the programme's available features.
LINK Harmonica Tool YouTube Channel
Grey Owl YouTube
Grey Owl Abstract Photos
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HarpNinja
1098 posts
Feb 10, 2011
5:50 AM
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You can tune a harp without removing the reedplates from the comb. Look up Richard Sleigh on YouTube or consider buying any of his harp tech resources. There are many ways to tackle this, but if you are comfortable checking your gaps, you can tune and regap without tearing the harp totally apart.
In fact, I would say that in many instances, tuning should be done with the reed plates attached to the comb.
The only con, IMO, is visually, it is often easier to see the tuning marks on the backside of the blow plate, especially if you are flattening the reed. It isn't a big deal, won't have a negative impact on how the harp plays, but it won't look as neat as the draw plate.
You could do the bulk of your tuning with the reed plates unattached and then fine tune with them on the comb too, I guess.
Personally, I don't like the sandpaper stick thingies that are so en vogue. I prefer a draw scraper and file.
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Mike
Quicksilver Custom Harmonicas
Updated 2/1/11
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jawbone
393 posts
Feb 10, 2011
7:26 AM
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I have been using a dremel with a fine emery - any problems with that set up??
I'm on dialup so I can't watch the youtube videos.
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If it ain't got harp - it ain't really blues!!!!
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HarpNinja
1099 posts
Feb 10, 2011
7:41 AM
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I don't know if there are any "right" answers for sure, but go with what works! When you get to 1-2 cents from where you want to be, things like files will make it easier to not overtune.
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Mike
Quicksilver Custom Harmonicas
Updated 2/1/11
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jimjam
2 posts
Feb 10, 2011
8:31 AM
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@ jawbone,
I read about a tuner using a cheap manicure tool, because it would stop spinning if you put too much pressure on it. Where the Dremel might throw the reed into the next county because it's a beast.
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"If you want to hide, find a stage."
~John Popper
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chromaticblues
579 posts
Feb 10, 2011
8:35 AM
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@grey owl
Yeah mike is right about not haveing to take it apart. I never thought about mentioning that because I always take them apart I just didn't think about it.
If you don't want to buy any tools (such as a scraper). You can use a pocket knife. You take the top coverplate off to expose the blow reedplate. If the reed is flat remove metal from the end of the reed. Scrap lenth wise and only scrap in the middle of the reed. Try not to touch the edge. If the reed is sharp remove metal at the rivet end by going side to side with the last 1 or 2 mm of the knife blade. Don't venture to far from the reed. I try not to go any more than 1/4 the way up the reed. That is only when it is very sharp. When you go from side to side the slots in the reedplate will keep you from scrapping all the out to the edge. Again like Mike said this a great way of doing touch up tuning after a harp has been tuned. The pocket knife method is more operator friendly (its easier).
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barbequebob
1537 posts
Feb 10, 2011
9:51 AM
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I've mentioned this link to a list I made of tunings for all diatonic harmonicas a number of times and so here it is again:
http://www.deltafrost.com/diatonic-harmonica-tunings-an-update_topic6473.html?KW=Diatonic+Harmonica+Tunings
The most accurate tuners in the world, hands down, are going to be Peterson. For harmonica, if you need to do different intonations like just or anything else, I suggest either getting the classic 12 strobe wheel, Stroboflip, or the Strobosoft, which is a computer software package, an you can program it to do any tuning. However, you DO need to use your ears as the final judge, and when doing just intonation, you have to listen to the three notes in the chord to where the wavering/beating stops completely and the chord sounds sweet and smooth and then it's done.
Word of Caution when tuning: make DAMNED SURE that you use the SOFTEST breath force that you can physically manage or the tuning will NEVER be correct.
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Sincerely,
Barbeque Bob Maglinte
Boston, MA
http://www.barbequebob.com
CD available at http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/bbmaglinte
Last Edited by on Feb 10, 2011 10:02 AM
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Greyowlphotoart
455 posts
Feb 10, 2011
11:00 AM
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@HarpNinja & Chromaticblues. Thanks for the tips guys, very useful. I'll get to work.
Grey Owl YouTube
Grey Owl Abstract Photos
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HarpNinja
1102 posts
Feb 10, 2011
11:15 AM
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You can improvise the tools, but this is a good visual reference....http://archive.harmonicasessions.com/aug09/Pollard.html
Just remember to check your gaps as regapping later can change the tuning. I often do the blow plate like this but with a scraper instead.
I've started to get more and more anal about how the reed looks after tuning. This is a non-issue with the draw plate, but more with the blow plate (see previous post). I have found a very expensive solution, lol, and will share information when I get the product in a month or so.
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Mike
Quicksilver Custom Harmonicas
Updated 2/1/11
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Oisin
753 posts
Feb 10, 2011
1:17 PM
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Kingley...that's a great tuner, really easy to use. I'm at work at the moment and don't have a mic but I just plugged a small set of earphones in the mic socket and they worked great as a mic. Just tried a C special 20 through it and blow 4 is flat! Nice one.
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Oisin
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Greyowlphotoart
458 posts
Feb 11, 2011
1:34 AM
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@ Harpninja. Thanks so much for that Pollard link Mike, it is so helpful to see pictures of the process. I know exactly what to do now.
Grey Owl YouTube
Grey Owl Abstract Photos
Last Edited by on Feb 11, 2011 1:35 AM
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Zadozica
13 posts
Feb 15, 2011
4:37 PM
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Okay, I bought the Ipad version of the iStrobosoft.
The tuner setting is set for Drop/Capo at 441hz. I can change the frequency but not the Drop/Capo. I was thinking that I should be able to change the tuner setting to ET or JI but that does not seem to be the case.
So with that setting, my Lee Oskars which shoulb be ET is showing quite a deviation from the key being blown with most notes being sharp.
Do others who play LO find this to be true as well? IF they very this much it is no wonder that my tone from note to note seems so bad - at least part of the reason.....
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arzajac
464 posts
Feb 15, 2011
4:42 PM
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I think LO harps are tuned to Et at 443 or 444 hz.
Also, you need to warm the harp and play very softly.
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REM
39 posts
Feb 15, 2011
5:20 PM
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Mike, I don't understand what you're talking about when you say you care about how the blow reeds look after tuning. Are you saying you don't like to see the tuning marks on the back of the blow reeds? If so, I can't understand why this would possibly bother anyone. The only way you could see the tuning marks is if you remove the coverplate and look into the reed slots. And even then, why would anyone care? That seems like you may be edging into OCD : P
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HarpNinja
1112 posts
Feb 15, 2011
8:28 PM
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Strictly OCD and no other reason. Unless you are gouging, some scuff/file marks are no biggie. I just like trying to be discreet.
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Mike
Quicksilver Custom Harmonicas
Updated 2/1/11
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Zadozica
14 posts
Feb 16, 2011
5:56 AM
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Arzajac - the paperwork that came with my LO says that they are tuned to 441 for a brighter sound.
You raise an interesting point though. I will change the frequency and see if that comes closer to ET.
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HarpNinja
1113 posts
Feb 16, 2011
7:19 AM
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I was tuning like a mad man yesterday. Without writing a way too long post, my conclusion, which has pretty much always been the case, is that it is near impossible to get consistent readings. That doesn't mean you can't nail a tuning as it obviously happens all the time, but there are SO many factors that can change the pitch of a reed from temperature to condensation, to shifting the gap, etc.
While I can only speak to my individual experience, I've never had any harp that someone else tuned that I could take to a tuner and get it to read 100% accurate to every pitch. Ball park? Yes. Majority? Yes. Granted some of that is intentional as you often have to adjust for beats, but in general, no two players are going to hit the note the same way. This is especially true in the 1 hole and 10 hole.
To illustrate this, the next time you tune the 1 hole (either blow or draw) pay attention to your nose and if you let air pass through there or not. Try the note with both a pucker and tb emochure of varying good tone. You will get all sorts of readings depending on how you play the note. If you use perfect posture, body shape, breathing, etc and get 100% accuracy, then see what it reads when jamming.
It is often mentioned to use as light breath force as possible, but check out some of the tuning videos (like Richard Sleighs) and that isn't the case. I think if you blow too soft, then you end up setting things too flat relative to how others actually play.
You also have to remember that the second you finish tuning, your harp is no longer in tune. It is all essentially relevant to that moment and the tuner used (if you use something like the Strobosoft, you have to callibrate it to your mic first!).
If everyone could test a note using the exact same breath force, then it would be more apples to apples, or if the same person tuned every reed all the time, but realistically, unless you tune all your own harps, there will be odd balls sometimes. Heck, I would wager that even shipping could create problems (I am too paranoid to ship when it is really really cold).
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Mike
Quicksilver Custom Harmonicas
Updated 2/1/11
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boris_plotnikov
449 posts
Feb 16, 2011
7:51 AM
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I go to stainless steel reeds. No more worrying about tuning. Set and forget.
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Excuse my bad English. Click on my photo or my username for my music.
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barbequebob
1547 posts
Feb 16, 2011
8:04 AM
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The only real way to get a consistent breath force that's light enough for real accuracy is making an expensive investment in something like what harmonica factories have, which is a tuning table where you set the reed plates on with either a fan or better yet, an air compressor where you can not only do single notes, but octaves and chords as well.
At Hohner, that's the setup they've used for over 150 years and the only other thing they use in addition is a reference plate set up with that, but they do NOT allow them to use a strobe tuner at all, plus they only allow a grand total of 5 minutes to tune an entire harmonica.
The one tuning you can eventually learn to do totally by ear is both 7LJI and 19LJI, with 7LJI the easiest of the two because unlike ET or comprimise tunings, where in reality a good strobe tuner is a huge help, and you basically listen to make sure the octaves are correct, in addition with JI, you also listen to how the notes sound together with the other two surrounding notes of the chord and once the beating/wavering totally stops and the chord is smooth, crisp and clear sounding, you're done. I'm so used to hearing 7LJI that the last time I used a tuner for this tuning was about 20 years ago.
For decades at Hohner, they employed generations of families with perfect pitch hearing to do this work, which can be tedious as hell, and when they were doing either JI or ET only, you could have a dozen harps in the same key and maybe 1 or 2 of them might be off by about 5 cents either way, but by the end of the 80's, they changed the way they paid their workers from an hourly wage to piece work (which is basically slave wages and often severly comprimises quality), instead of taking time to get the job done right, it became pumping out product faster and faster, plus the families of these tuners didn't want to do this work anymore, especially after they changed payment to piece work, and so Hohner hired tons of young women who, as Rick Epping told me in a phone conversation in 1995, were very poorly trained for this work and when they began using the comprimise tunings, the consistency they once had went down the toilet for years until recently and it wasn't common for tunings to be off by as much as 20 cents either way.
Joe Filisko once said to a friend of mine that the harmonica is almost never truly in tune, which at first made me scratch my head, but it makes sense because every tuning has trade offs and because harp reeds give off more harmonic overtones than any other instrument outside of a piano, plus the majority of them, especially the upper ones, are the odd numbered ones, which to the human ear, can sound harsh and dissodent, it makes for a built in Catch 22, meaning that when tuned to JI against a band playing in ET, you're TRULY in tune with yourself, but not quite there with the band, but if you're tuned to ET, you're in tune with the band, but when you play chords, because of the overtone problem, you're not truly in tune with yourself.
Lee Oskars have always been tuned to A442-443, and most harmonica companies also tune that way as well because they know for a FACT that the average player often plays with a much harder breath force than they're aware of and by doing this, no matter how hard you play, it won't fall below A440. If you were to get a harp tuned to real A440, based on the way most players really play, you're gonna actually be playing A438, and if you play REALLY hard, it'll be at A437, which means every note you're gonna be playing is gonna be about 50-60 cents flat, and that's way out of tune.
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Sincerely,
Barbeque Bob Maglinte
Boston, MA
http://www.barbequebob.com
CD available at http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/bbmaglinte
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HarpNinja
1114 posts
Feb 16, 2011
8:11 AM
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I have a tuning table on order. ;) Kind of expensive, but worth every penny, IMO.
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Mike
Quicksilver Custom Harmonicas
Updated 2/1/11
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boris_plotnikov
450 posts
Feb 16, 2011
10:25 AM
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I go to stainless steel reeds. No more worrying about tuning. Set and forget.
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Excuse my bad English. Click on my photo or my username for my music.
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pistolero
64 posts
Feb 16, 2011
1:13 PM
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Which harps use SS for reeds? And what tuning do those come in?
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It's MUSIC, not just complicated noise.
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barbequebob
1550 posts
Feb 16, 2011
1:29 PM
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The Seydel 1847 is the only one using SS reeds and if you check my other postings earlier in this thread, I have what it is as well as a link for tuning formulas for that and any other diatonics NOT tuned to ET tuning.
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Sincerely,
Barbeque Bob Maglinte
Boston, MA
http://www.barbequebob.com
CD available at http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/bbmaglinte
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RunsWithScissors
53 posts
Feb 16, 2011
1:48 PM
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Thanks again Bob for great info and background.
Very useful.
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pistolero
65 posts
Feb 16, 2011
1:52 PM
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So there! Yeah thanks Bob, good info there!
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It's MUSIC, not just complicated noise.
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chromaticblues
605 posts
Feb 17, 2011
8:35 AM
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@ Bqbob I can tune a harp with a $20 tuner and test it by ear (fiddle around alittle sometimes getting the pulsating to go away), but when I'm done its perfect and it takes about 30 minutes.
I have sold 3 Sp 20's to a LONG time professional harp player that plays piano also and he tested all the root notes (second position) on all three of the harps I sent him. I tune to 442 and he said they all were in perfect pitch with the piano! So I'm going to have to disagree with you there. Inexpensive tunrs can be used to great effect. The user has to be capable!
I agree with you and Joe Filisko about the catch 22 of tuning. That is the absolute truth. Also SS reeds do stay in tune as where brass reeds do not. I have harps that I have tuned about 100 times (that is not an exageration), but to me brass sounds better. I will continue to tune them because if it sounds better than its worth learning to do (to me anyway). SS reeds sound bright and brittle (again to me anyway). I think they are great for low tunings or insruments with big reeds (like accordians), but not the average diatonic harp. Big reeds (accordians or say the low octave of a 64 chrom is a perfect place to use SS reeds because the brass reeds have to many overtones and it gets kind of muddy sounding I think. So I'm not saying SS reeds are not good! They have a place. I just don't believe the diatonic harp is the best place for them.
I'm working on a harmonetta that was made in the fifties that has SS reeds. Wait a second thats a Hohner!
If durability and lack of tuning is the most important aspect of a harp to you. Then the 1847 is the best harp on the market. If sound quality is your most important concern, then I would buy an 1847 and compare it to the harps you use now and see what you think. Don't take my word for it, but don't take anyone elses either!
Sorry! alot of misleading info there!!
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barbequebob
1551 posts
Feb 17, 2011
9:44 AM
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@Chromaticblues --- It's no surprise to hear a harp tuned to A442 is in tune with a piano that's tuned to A440 because that's the reason why harps are tuned sharper because of the way most people actually play in terms of real breath force.
You most certainly can tune any harp with a cheap tuner like you mentioned but obviously the user has to understand the tuner and have control of his own playing and learning how to really use their ears and pay close attention to detail is something cannot cannot be overstated.
Those reeds on the Harmonetta are FAR different in sound and manufacturing technique than what Seydel is using and the 1847's, to cut the brightness down, uses a considerably thicker, heavier cover plate to cut the brightness down, but with any harp, once you do ANYTHING to increase the volume, be it slot embossing, opening the back of the cover plates, or anything else, there is ALWAYS gonna be corresponding increase in brightness no matter what. Even the Suzuki Manji, which is actually louder than the 1847, uses a much thinner cover plate and that alone also increases the brightness of the instrument.
The only real way to combat brightness is to learn to play softer and more controlled.
There have been brasses that have been used by different companies over the years that also are much brighter and didn't sound that great, and some that does. The gold standard for brass for harps is still the bell metal brass used on pre-WWII Hohners, but the factory that was making that brass has been out of business since then and no one else makes them and there are FAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAR fewer choices of brass for companies to choose from now.
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Sincerely,
Barbeque Bob Maglinte
Boston, MA
http://www.barbequebob.com
CD available at http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/bbmaglinte
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Zadozica
18 posts
Feb 17, 2011
10:41 AM
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So I got the iStrobosoft to begin my lonnnnggg journey into tuning my own harps to my preference.
As I used the tuner, the cents vary quite widely even playing softly. I think this is due to the variation in my breathing pressure.
SO I am thinking that I should practice getting my breathing pressure stable before trying to tune any reads - does this make sense or will the tuner always mover about quite a bit?
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chromaticblues
607 posts
Feb 17, 2011
11:18 AM
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Out of all the new harps I've worked on the harp that has surprised me the most for two reasons. Is the Lee Oskar! Many people (including myself) do not like these harps. I'll get to that in a second. What I have noticed about Lee Oskars is they have very hard brass reedplates. I assume they use the same brass to make their reeds. High quality brass = durability. Now as I said they are not favored by alot of people, but this is due to:
1st are ET tuned. If you don't like ET tuned your not going to like that.
2nd They are tuned a little higher than the harps I use. So 1 and 2 together makes 3 in the not so good column
3rd They use low profile coverplates. I hate the way those covers sound
4th the comb!
OK so whats the big deal! Get a nice custom hardwood comb sanded flat, retune it to JI tuning at 442=A and slap some Hohner blues harp coverplates on it.
Holly Shit! Anyone that says Lee Oskars suck (as I have) is wrong! They just built the harp the Lee Oskar thought it should sound thats all. He would probably hate the way I made it sound. I can't even describe how mindblowing this combination is. You talk about playability.
Point being the tuning of a harp has alot to do with our first impression. Wheather it be right or wrong!
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Zadozica
19 posts
Feb 17, 2011
11:35 AM
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Chromaticblues - what does 442=A mean? I know what 442 is but not the 442=A. Are you refering to the harp being tuned to they key of A?
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chromaticblues
608 posts
Feb 17, 2011
12:29 PM
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Well yes and no. 442=A Means 442 Hz is an A note. Which is really not true now that I think about it. 440 Hz is an A note. As Bob stated harps are tuned sharp because the note naturaly goes flat with pressure from your breath. So harps are tuned sharp. I think 1Hz = 10 cents on a tuner. I'm not sure of that. Its been awhile since I checked that. On a tuner there is a calibration option. So you can set the meter to what ever you want. Then you can use one of the many formulas to tune your harp.
Trust me I make it sound way more complicated than it is. I'm good at doing things the easy way. Just not as good at explaining things the easiest way.
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