ANDREWZAR
25 posts
Feb 06, 2011
9:35 AM
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I got a Hohner 260 really cheap on Ebay last week with a cracked comb. It was a nice clean split, so it was easy to repair. The reeds, slide and cover plates are all in great shape. Next I'm going to flat sand the comb and seal the heck out of it. Does anyone have a reccomemdation for sealer? I'm looking forward to doing some reed work too, gapping and tuning. I'll be logging my progress for anyone interested. I'm certainly open to any advice.
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arzajac
453 posts
Feb 06, 2011
11:08 AM
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Lots of people like butcher block oil. It's not my favorite. The comb will smell bad for a good long while and the leftover liquid in the can quickly turns to jelly - so unless you have fifty combs to seal, you are going to waste a lot.
I like water-based polyurethane glossy finish. I have had good success with rubbing it on with my fingers (wearing a vinyl glove) and then polishing it into the wood with a microfiber polishing cloth. I think of it as many coats of polish rather than a thick coat of varnish. The flat surface stays flat that way. The insides of the tines don't need to be that smooth so I'm not worried about flatness there. But if you want to seal the comb, you need to seal the inside of the tines.
Take your time. Do many small steps. For example, I draw pencil lines across the comb and then sand the lines off. It can take several passes to get the lines to come off evenly and thus provide a flat surface. The same goes for the finish. It may feel like you are hardly wetting the surface but that's okay. Let it dry for eight hours and do another coat. You will end up with a much flatter surface than if you slobber finish on the comb and expect it to even itself out. You will have to go back and sand it and start over, in that case.
Have fun!
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chromaticblues
566 posts
Feb 06, 2011
12:15 PM
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arzajac is right about the butcher block. It works very well, but you would have to wait a month to put it back together so it won't skink. Now I'm not saying you can't use it. I use it, but I wait before I put it back together. The only reason I bother with it is because it does work VERY well. If you don't want to wait I also use Tung oil. Tung oil only takes a couple days and its ready!
@ Andrewzar Those reedplates respond very well to embossing. If you use a .003" feeler gauge you can slide it under the windsavers from the free end toward the rivet and they'll pop right of. If your careful you can reuse them glueing them back on with Gorilla super glue.
There are a couple ways to put it together. If you do full lenth embossing on holes 6 thru 10 and set the reeds low you can put it together without windsavers. I wouldn't put them on holes 8 thru 10 annyway, but the bends on holes 6 and 7 will be similiar to holes 5 and 6 on a diatonic. I really like this harp after embossing. Its a great chrom for blues IMHO!
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ANDREWZAR
26 posts
Feb 06, 2011
1:39 PM
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I currently have a shellac based sealer called Sealcoat. It's really just a thin shellac. It dries in about 30 min and with a decent sheen. I also have an antique oil that dries in 24 hours. I've used this on other stuff, so I know it won't stay sticky. It also is pretty thin. More of a tung oil type. I just happen to have these lying around. Any thoughts on using one of these? Does anybody know where to get more wind savers. I'm not sure, but I may be missing some. Thanks for all the advice so far!!!
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nacoran
3781 posts
Feb 06, 2011
9:50 PM
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Oh great, I finally go out and buy some butcher's block oil and now everyone is moving on to something else!
On a slightly related topic, anyone know how to fix a crack in acrylic?
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7LimitJI
382 posts
Feb 07, 2011
2:36 AM
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Keep the Butchers block in the fridge and it will last a loooong time. I've had mine about a year and its still ok.
This prevents the solvent in it evaporating.
I store all my glue and small paints in a fridge.
If you leave the comb a week before assembly the smell is about gone from the comb.
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chromaticblues
569 posts
Feb 07, 2011
9:31 AM
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@ Andrewzar You can buy windsavers from Hohner's parts Dept. Yes you can use tung oil. It works well and is non-toxic.
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