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Dirty-South Blues Harp forum: wail on! >
Broken Reed, Stuck Reeds
Broken Reed, Stuck Reeds
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Jim Harris
12 posts
Jun 10, 2010
10:18 PM
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Could I get some ideas of what to do with a GM in D that I broke a reed out of (trying to fix by myself)? Is there anyone reasonably priced to fix it and make sure it is overall in tune, of if I should just chuck it to the side and keep trying different ones.
I've actually got a number of sticky reeds in various harps that go dead or squeal, especially at the 6 and up end.
My only solution so far is to upgrade to more expensive harps. I've ordered a Promaster Valved in D to see if that's better. I've been trying others, like MB and SP20, but still not as clean out of the box as I'd like.
I'm entering the game on the budget end and working up.
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nacoran
2084 posts
Jun 10, 2010
10:48 PM
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Jim, sticky reeds are probably either gunk in the harp or a gap that's not set right, or en embrouchure problem, especially if it's certain notes across several harps.
You can check to see if it's in tune with a tuner. There are lots of free software programs that will do that for you. The broken reed is a little trickier. Depending on how mechanical you are can buy individual reeds and replace the reed or get a replacement reed plate. A replacement reed plate won't be cheap, but it will be cheaper than a new harp.
What harps have you tried so far?
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Nate
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arzajac
225 posts
Jun 11, 2010
3:04 AM
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Which reed is broken on the GM?
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Jim Harris
13 posts
Jun 11, 2010
8:26 AM
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arzajac -- it's the 4 draw.
nacoran -- I've tried Marine Band in A, Bb, C, D; Blues Harp A, C, D, E; Steven Tyler A; Bluesband C; Huang Silvertone C; Pro Harp C: Golden Melody C, D (2); Spec20 Low F, G, B, C, D; Bluesmaster Bb; Hammond C; MB 364 G; MB 365 C, 260 Chromonica C; 280 Chromonica C (not claiming that I can play the chromonicas, but I can check the notes/reeds!).
So far, the Suzukis and the two Chromonicas have the most reliable reeds, followed closely by the Spec 20s and the couple GMs. In fairness, some of the harps are used, but I've had problems with some unused ones too.
It seems I've had better results with thicker reed plates on the 364, 365 and Chromonicas -- does that seem right?
Is there any recommended break-in that I might be overlooking?
Regarding en embrouchure (or mouth shape/pucker): I've tried going through each on singles notes in passes or sustaining the one note, blowing light to heavy in and out, and trying to bend. The ones I find problematic make little or no sound unless blown rapidly in an out at higher pressures -- then back to "stuck" or squeaking on light pressure. It may be something I'm doing wrong, as it seems most prevalent the higher up toward the 10 holes (least problems with those toward the low holes).
Seems most common for me on draw notes -- a MB in D has a problem with the 5D (update -- working it hard, the 5D just "popped" and is now working), a MB in A has a problem with 8D, and a GM in D has "stiffness" on the 10D.
Is working them hard an option?
Last Edited by on Jun 11, 2010 8:41 AM
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earlounge
95 posts
Jun 11, 2010
8:54 AM
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If your reed just "popped" back in, then it's probably gunk like nacoran said. Gunk is the nasty harp players embossing :P Other than that I'd check to make sure the reed is centered. And lastly I would take a shim lightly to the sides of the reed plate. You can get a shim from inside the security detector things found on CDs or DVDs.
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arzajac
226 posts
Jun 11, 2010
10:01 AM
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Jim, If you are inclined to fix it yourself, you can replace that 4 draw reed from a D harp with either a 6 Draw from a G harp or a 6 Blow from an A harp. They are all the same.
There are plenty of guides on how to pop the rivet out, swap out the bad reed for the good one and then how to pop it back in.
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