Stickman
210 posts
Feb 23, 2010
1:27 PM
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Here is what I want:
A Jt30 mic manufactured in Youngstown. Why? I don't know I h]just think I would be cool to have a mic older than me. I also want it Identifiable as old. If I wanted a new mic I wouldn't want a JT-30
I don't know what kind of element I want. This is where you can help. What would be best. I don't think I would want a crystal element. Why? My understanding is they have great sound (if you get a good one) they are expensive, fragile and hard to find. But I don't know what my other options are.
I don't think I want the shell modified with vol. control. Rather, I believe that there is a volume control adaptor available that attached to the shell where the cord plugs in, Is this true? What is that adaptor called.
I would probably want the shell repainted. Not anything crazy. Just one color maybe brown.
I would want it to work, sound good and be reliable.
So I have taken my 1st steps towards getting my dream mic
I recently ordered this mic off of e-bay
click for larger view
Its an old Jt-30, I haven't tried it but I'm sure it doesn't work. I mean as a microphone, It would make a great maraca. I paid $80 with shipping
click for larger view
It, could use a paint job and maybe a re-chrome job.
click for larger view
click for larger view
according to Jt-30.com this mic dates to the late 1930's
http://www.jt30.com/jt30page/micdates/
If you know something more about a model 30, Y series please let me know
Next step is to paint it. I think I'll stick with the original color or close to it. What I would like to know is how to remove the old rivets that hold the tag on, and can they be replaced. I plan to drill the old ones out very carefully. Does anybody know how to put new ones in and what tools I would need?
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The Art Teacher Formally Known As scstrickland
Last Edited by on Feb 23, 2010 1:31 PM
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toddlgreene
884 posts
Feb 23, 2010
1:46 PM
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So, you don't know if it works yet(ew-a rattling noise?)? Not to rain on your parade, but 80 bucks seems steep for a non-operational mic.
Are you going to add the screw on connector, volume control, etc. too? I'm anxious to watch your progress.
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Todd L Greene. V.P.
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pharpo
173 posts
Feb 23, 2010
2:23 PM
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Stick..if the micks just been layin around in a box for years you might get lucky with the crystal. If not..I recommend a Shure CM. They are cheaper than the CR and IMHO I don't believe the difference in price is worth it. CAN'T WAIT TO SEE IT AND HEAR IT !!!
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Music is your own experience, your own thoughts, your wisdom. If you don't live it, it won't come out of your horn. They teach you there's a boundary line to music. But, man, there's no boundary line to art. - Charlie Parker
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pharpo
174 posts
Feb 23, 2010
2:25 PM
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Oh and you can get on of those in line volume controls from Greg H.
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Music is your own experience, your own thoughts, your wisdom. If you don't live it, it won't come out of your horn. They teach you there's a boundary line to music. But, man, there's no boundary line to art. - Charlie Parker
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Stickman
211 posts
Feb 23, 2010
3:19 PM
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@ toddl- a 60 year old mic that if I hang on to it will become an antique in my lifetime. I have watched other questionable JT-30's from the 60's and 70's go for as much as $100. most of them probably need new elements from what i understand. One just like this went for $150 just days before I bought this one. anyway I wanted It and I bought I and think I could have paid much more. I'm happy. And yes, I will add an inline volume control. Probably from Greg but that will come at the end.
As for progress, it will be slow. I have blown the bank since the holidays and pink slips start going out at work next week so I'm not going to spend any $ I don't need to right now.
First step will be to paint the shell. I don't want to mask the tag. My plan is to remove it by drilling out the rivets. I just don't know how to put them back or who even to ask. Its not like there is a "Ye Olde Rivet Shoppe" down the street. So if anybody has any advice on replacing rivets or who to talk to about it I could sure use the info. If i need to I'll tap the holes and replace the rivets with screws.
Step 2 will be to shop around for an element. I will talk to Ron Sunshine and Rharley and Chuck Gurney and see what those guys say about doctoring this thing up.
It will probably be May or June before I send this thing off to have work done. So be patient guys. This is going to be a little more than a weekend project.
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The Art Teacher Formally Known As scstrickland
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jonsparrow
2361 posts
Feb 23, 2010
3:51 PM
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$80 is a good price. even if its non-working. plus its a 1930's with a riveted tag. thats a nice find. my 1940's an my 1970's jt30's have a sticker tag.
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MP
6 posts
Feb 23, 2010
9:55 PM
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if you are really careful you can pry the rivets from the sides of the tag with a swiss army knife or similar just to get them raised up a bit. then use a pair of dykes(end cutters, nails pullers or whatever you call 'em)and gently grasp rivet and pry up. you can use the side of the dykes as a fulcrum since you are re-painting anyway. make sure you don't bend or cut the rivets or bend the tag. even if you do, the tag can be bent back with patience and a wooden dowl. is that how you spell it? when replacing tag, the rivets should pop in snug -maybe use a very small hammer after they are in place;don't whack the paint job-and some kind of glue should be used as insurance. make sure you don't get epoxy or similar on your new paint. it'll eat it up. good luck
Last Edited by on Feb 23, 2010 9:57 PM
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rharley5652
78 posts
Feb 23, 2010
10:20 PM
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MP ,..well said ,...this is the way to go ,..I never had any luck with the drill .
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Simply Unique Kustom Mic's By Rharley
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Stickman
215 posts
Feb 24, 2010
2:06 AM
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Wow ! O.K. Drill is out. But I am having a hard time following you MP. Basically I will be (gently) pulling the rivet out like a nail and then (gently) hammering it back in again. Is this correct?
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The Art Teacher Formally Known As scstrickland
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Nastyolddog
265 posts
Feb 24, 2010
2:45 AM
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Yo Stickman if I'm correct you are trying to remove the Tag without damaging the Black enamele paint it's going to be very fidely job i haven't don it but this is how i would attempt it i would suggest covering the tage with masking tape maybe a few layers then get a small file and gently file the tops down untill the tag can be remove with gentle force under the tag,,it should pop of then you can file the rivets down pushing them through the holes look inside the stand mount were the rivets are you will see 2 small holes the rivets,,But i have done this to my Shure Bullet Tags Plaster the Tag with masking tape a few layers then cut around the outside of the tag with a Box cutter Knife then paint,,strip the mic back first ready for paint,,Prep with some fine grade wet and dry get some Brown Hammer finish paint apply 3 coats..I hope this helps
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Stickman
216 posts
Feb 24, 2010
3:28 AM
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O.K. Nasty (BTW thats a cool name) I like the filing down and removing, but how do I put new rivets in when I replace the tag.
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The Art Teacher Formally Known As scstrickland
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Nastyolddog
267 posts
Feb 24, 2010
4:20 AM
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That i would tackle it this way get a small tack hammer look for some small Brass pins or nails,,Possibly tack the Pins or Nails in the Holes befor attaching cut to size put some masking tap on the tag maybe to layers slip the tag over the Pins and gently peen the pins flat attatching the Tag,,Yo Stickman i have not done this but if i did this is how i would go about it you may refine the method befor attempting this job these are only suggestions i hope it helps out..Thanks Bro my name is my stage name it sounds better than and now for our next act give a big welcome to Brett no one remembers Brett but every one knows Nastyolddog,,it sounds cool when the girls greet me with Hiiiigh Naaaasty..every one should have a stage name even if you don't go to jam nights..
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Kingley
913 posts
Feb 24, 2010
4:36 AM
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I would follow the method that MP stated. That way you can re-use the original rivets. Another thing to bear in mind is that if you spray it with automotive paint spray then the finish will not last long and will chip easily.
In my opinion though, you would honestly be better off saving some cash up and then sending the shell to either Greg Heumann, Jeff Spoor or Bluesace55 (from ebay, sorry I don't know his name) and have them sort it out for you. I have stuff from all of these guys and it's top drawer and not as expensive as you may think.
I have done numerous mics myself and I can tell you now, that they can be a real bitch to work on. That Youngstown shell is too nice to mess up.
Last Edited by on Feb 24, 2010 4:37 AM
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toddlgreene
886 posts
Feb 24, 2010
5:07 AM
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Stick-As Yoda would say, 'I mean you no harm'...You're absolutely right. i wasn't putting any focus on the fact that it's as old as it is-a true relic of a time long past. Not a whole lot of folks have those '30s shells. That's something to talk about, and pass down. It will be the one mic you never sell. Now, doll it up pretty!
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Todd L Greene. V.P.
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MP
7 posts
Feb 24, 2010
12:00 PM
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hey stick, that is what i meant. as for useing dykes as a fulcrum i should have been clearer. twist the dykes left or right after you have good purchase on the raised rivet. 'dogs' masking tape idea is a great suggestion. even so, you might want to send it out for a re-paint and chrome job on the grille. gregg heumann does excellent work and could easily remove the tag. also kevin at kevincanwait@aol.com. because if you are going to repaint it's best to have a painter do it. i learned the rivet trick from kevin and his paint jobs are very durable. i own a kevin JT-30 and have actually seen and played huemanns mic mods.
Last Edited by on Feb 24, 2010 12:08 PM
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MP
8 posts
Feb 24, 2010
1:21 PM
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hey stick, finding a good crystal is way harder than removing a tag. it's so bloody hit-n-miss with a lotta miss. pharpo suggests a CM. good advice. CMs and CRs are good replacements. even a not so good CM will probably work better than a NOS 151 crystal. i'll bet your original gasket is toast, all hard and funky.. also you'll need a gasket to fit a CM/CR. astatic crystal elements have a larger diameter than CMs and CRs. tims gaskets will solve that. is tim still in business? most mic builders have elements and gaskets or know where to get them so that's hardly a big deal. good luck and chrome that grille.
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Blueharper
29 posts
Feb 24, 2010
1:23 PM
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Jon,if I am reading your post right you have an Astatic from the 40's with a sticker tag.I think they had rivets up until sometime in the 60's.I am by no means an expert,but I started buying mics on Ebay about 8 years ago when they were cheap,and I think I'll get a better return than the stock market when I retire and start selling!
Check out-- www.jt30.com/jt30page/mic dates
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rharley5652
80 posts
Feb 24, 2010
6:29 PM
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blueharp ,..ya right on the rivets,..believe stickers were 60's 70's
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Simply Unique Kustom Mic's By Rharley
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Nastyolddog
275 posts
Feb 24, 2010
8:51 PM
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Yo Stickman a fancy painted Harp mic is over rated go to Bunnings get a $20 Buff kit that fits on a drill you will get the buff wheel 2 sticks of buffing past,,make a jig to hold the drill and start buffing 20 mins you got a ass kicking polished alloy shell that looks better than crome or nickle plating..remember to cover the tag..
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jonsparrow
2387 posts
Feb 24, 2010
8:57 PM
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oh. well then the ebay add listed it wrong then. it dosnt have a chrome grill if that means anything. like its the same color as the shell.
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Blueharper
31 posts
Feb 24, 2010
9:03 PM
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Is it grey hammertone paint on the grill?They look pretty sharp. Or is it brown?
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Nastyolddog
276 posts
Feb 24, 2010
9:59 PM
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 this is not crome it was buffed with my $20 Bunnings buff kit my next step is to get it custom engraved,,when it gets dull just hit it with some polish to bring it back sparkling
Last Edited by on Feb 24, 2010 10:09 PM
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Stickman
218 posts
Feb 25, 2010
1:52 AM
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Wow nasty that is truly bad@ss> is the grill buffed or is that part chrome?also and will it hold that shine over time?
@blueharper. the grill is chrome with some oxidation
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The Art Teacher Formally Known As scstrickland
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Nastyolddog
279 posts
Feb 25, 2010
2:06 AM
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Hi Stickman the grill is cromed it was i little bit dull so i gave the whole mic the buff treatment,,if you leave the mic in the Open air it dulls up but thats no Problem just Hit it with some Bright Shine Maserati cloth to bring it back up nice and shiney,,to keep it's shine longer keep it in a Cloth Bag..I installed a Controlled Reluctance element in there 1951 mod it's all Bad..
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Kingley
915 posts
Feb 25, 2010
2:10 AM
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I have done this in the past to mics.
I agree it does look nice. However it does need constant work to keep it like that.
The shine diminishes everytime you handle the mic. It needs constantly buffing to keep it looking like that. What you would need to do is to clear coat it to retain the shine. However even then it's nowhere near as long lasting as chrome or nickel plating.
Personally I like powder coating, as it gives a high class finish that is very chip resistant. Either that or plating. Those finishes are far superior to any buffed or painted finish both in look and durability in my experience.
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Nastyolddog
280 posts
Feb 25, 2010
3:10 AM
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Kingo Im what some people call a Bikie or clubby second in charge i love Crome and Alloy i know what it takes to keep my Ride shinny it takes time and dedication Bro you are Pissing me Off,,every time i say something out comes Kingo to give me a Bashing Im allso 1 of 6 foundation members of our Harp club I live a very regimentle life style what is it you got something going down with me Put up or Shut up show me your work..
Last Edited by on Feb 25, 2010 4:34 AM
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Kingley
916 posts
Feb 25, 2010
3:29 AM
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Nasty - I'm not having a go at you. I just disagree with your view.
I'm merely stating my opinion on buffing versus chrome and plating, powder coating, painting, etc.
Now if that differs to your opinion then you should not perceive that to be a personal attack. I disagree with lots of things people say on this forum and vice versa.
Just because I recommend a certain amp to someone or a certain mic finish doesn't mean I'm attacking you personally. It just means I have a different opinion.
As to your comment of "put up or shut up", some of my mics are pictured in another thread for all to see.
Some I have worked on and some are from people (Purple JT30 from Jeff Spoor to which I fitted an on/off switch and a 520 Greg Heumann which I fitted the element in). All the Astatic mics have been outfitted by me. The Biscuit and BB are currently waiting for me to decide on a finish I wish to do to them
:
http://www.modernbluesharmonica.com/board/board_topic/5560960/557767.htm
My self customised harps are here for all to see, as is my playing: http://www.youtube.com/user/BbMarineBand
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Stickman
219 posts
Feb 25, 2010
3:52 AM
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Wow! Simmer down. I want to hear all opinions so I can make better choices and not wreck this thing. I welcome all views and know there is no ONE way to do ANYTHING in life. I also know that all approaches have PRO's and CON's. Anyway, although the shine is cool I think I'm going to restore it close to its original color. Thanks for your help guys and keep it coming.
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The Art Teacher Formally Known As scstrickland
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Kingley
917 posts
Feb 25, 2010
4:00 AM
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Stickman - Sorry.
I agree that the original colour looks best. If you can get a good match I would try and go down that route to retain as much period look to the mic as possible. I'd still recommend the powder coating though as it's a far tougher finish than automotive paint (unless it's done by a professional sprayer.
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Nastyolddog
281 posts
Feb 25, 2010
5:29 AM
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Yo Stickman cool,,Kingo your entitled to your opinion Ill try and keep a lid on my Tude in future..i do use Paint most times..
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Nastyolddog
282 posts
Feb 25, 2010
5:46 AM
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 Yo Stickman check this out this type of paint finish was widely used on many vintage mics comes in Brown Bronze and a few other colors It's a very durable paint i apply serveral coats wait 2 weeks for it to cure then Finish with a thick coat of Polyester resin wait another 2 maybe 3 sometimes 4 weeks for it to cure depending on the weather can be done at Home for the DIY Crew,,
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