Thanks. It's nice to see other folks' approach. I like the tape. I've been holding everything together with the cover plate screws - drilling the tap diameter bits all the way through, then setting drill depth to stop before drilling through the 2nd plate. A bit slow and tedious. I may try varnish again but I did not like the process nor the outcome the few times I tried it. Everyone else must be doing it better. I'm going to have to try the polish. I've been looking for the chemical solution.
Thanks jbone, it was an idea that was slow coming to me.
For years I just placed a spare comb on top of whatever I was sanding. Then I made a decent jig out of a block of wood with some slots in it... But there was always the risk of the reed plate shifting and screwing up the reeds (been there).
The shallow custom fit inset fixed that problem. The first prototype worked perfectly. Suddenly flat sanding was a breeze. It seemed so simple_ why didn't I think of this years ago?
Thievin' Have you tried shellac? I believe it is the easiest to get great results with. I use flakes. Shellac in a can has a poor shelf life and can even be bad before you open it.
The flakes are dissolved in alcohol. I like using 190 proof Everclear because the finish (insect secretion and grain alcohol) is natural/edible.
Everclear is admittedly not the best solvent, and it's not legal in all areas. The flakes will take a couple of days to dissolve.
You can thin (aka cut) the mixture so that it really soaks into the comb. When the alcohol evaporates the wood is sealed quite deep compared to canned varnish... You can add more shellac at any time and no sanding is required.
Shellac dries in minutes using a hair drier so you can build up a thick glossy finish if you like. Plus it wet sands and rubs out really well with rotten stone.
Here's what works for me. I brush on a liberal amount of thin shellac (1 Lb cut AKA 1 part flakes 8 parts alcohol) on all surfaces, especially between the tines allowing it to really soak in (flood it). Wipe off the excess from the faces and sides of the comb with a cloth while the shellac is still liquid. When that application is dry repeat the process one more time. That's it. Moisture is primarily absorbed at end grain, aka the slot walls.
If you like a glass like finish on the front, or edges just flow on multiple coats of the shellac using long continuous strokes with an artist/badger hair brush.
I use thin, brush on lacquer the same way. I believe it is a little less forgiving and previous coats are more likely to wrinkle but a good lacquer finish is hard to beat. It's glassy hard, dries quick and odor free.
Another option is a penetrating oil and or wax. I've been disappointed with oils. The only wax that I've been real happy with is 100% Carnauba wax, again it is edible (palm). But it is a bit dangerous to dissolve and apply because solvents and heat are required. Still the results are really nice and last a lifetime without looking like a finish.
If you like painting but are often disappointed by brush on results an air brush is a nice tool for harmonica size projects.
I like the look of the tool. I use finger pressure on reedplates and I’m always stressing about whether I’m pressing evenly and double guessing myself about whether I’m touching a reed and inadvertently retuning.
I was interested to see your process too. It’s a while since I modified any Marine Band harps for screws, but I have a couple coming up. I used to convert them as soon as I got them, but I had a few which played so well in original shape that I decided I would not mess with them until they actually needed work. I pull the nails along the edge, 3 each side, and leave the others in place until I’m done with drilling. I do the covers last.
First time I ever tried restoring a Marine Band, I underestimated the ease with which the reedplates would bend, and managed to bend the plate end to end rather too much. These days I’m keen to use the minimum of leverage to pop those heads up just enough.
Except a Marine Band comb and reed plate will work with a Manji Harp Plane (but a Manji wont fit into a Marine Band Harp Plane). I've tested a half dozen to be sure. The unintended fit is clearly loose, the reed base makes contact but the reeds and tips are protected.
It is pretty simple to drop in a reed plate and judge if the play is excessive. If the reeds plate can be shifted to cause the reeds to collide anywhere, don't use it. Naturally excessive play is not a problem for a comb.
Thanks SuperBee, Your method makes perfect sense. I love how people come up with different ways of going about things.
Ditto on bending reed plates, especially the soft brass in the old Marine Bands. I assume that's why we find tweaked plates, from someone's rough dismantling. I really hate the nails although I keep some the oldies original.
No. But, I can produce a Harp Plane to fit most popular 10 hole harps within a day or two at no extra charge. The MBH10 discount applies as well.
I have CAD files ready to be adjusted for virtually any harmonica. I would just need to know if this is for the same dimensions as an original Special 20 reed plate.
I assume you want this for fitting custom combs. That’s one of my favorite upgrades for the Golden Melody so naturally there is a GM Harp Plane.
*There would be a longer production delay if I didn't happen to own the particular harmonica at the time.
I primarily play the Special 20 and have some of the older "Marine Band" models and the newer "Progressive" models. I have a few that have already been customized so I wouldn't use it on these. I'm am slowly, after more than 40 years of playing, doing some of my own customizing.
Would the Harp Plane fit both kinds of Special 20s?
