Tyler
42 posts
Sep 02, 2016
6:40 PM
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I recently retuned and half-valved a special 20, key of A. I noticed that it sounded muted, as if all the overtones were gone. Hard to describe, but it sounds off. I thought it was the valves but removing them made no difference. I gapped the harp, but no difference.
I have another sp20 in A to compare to, and I just don't get the rich, full sound on the retune. I retuned using solder, filing, and reed swapping.
Any ideas as to what could have caused this change in timbre?
Last Edited by Tyler on Sep 02, 2016 6:40 PM
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Killa_Hertz
1731 posts
Sep 02, 2016
7:40 PM
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First off why did you use solder? Did you change the key?
Second how did you tune it? Did you use a guitar tuner and tune it to 440ET? (That's what I did the first time and I don't think I'm alone .. lol)
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Tyler
43 posts
Sep 03, 2016
7:37 AM
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Solder is fairly standard use for lowering. This one was an extensive job to PowerBender tuning.
I did 443 with a compromise tuning, although I have not done the fine tuning that is done after a "settling" period.
I did the 440 ET once as well, haha. I was doing a touch up and was amazed that every note was out of tune...oops.
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Thievin' Heathen
826 posts
Sep 03, 2016
7:57 AM
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I have observed that reeds are happiest when they are vibrating at their designed frequency. Perhaps you have pushed them outside their comfort zone.
I am probably completely wrong about this because it contradicts all the experimental R&D tuning work done successfully with solder and Blue Tack. I'll stand by and wait for one of the real experts to weigh in. My mind can be changed about this.
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mlefree
753 posts
Sep 03, 2016
8:26 AM
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How much experience to you have at modifying harmonicas, Tyler? Doesn't sound like much. You should start with a surviving reed on a "broken" harp. Diving in head first on a good harp without testing the depth of the water can have disastrous and irreversible results.
Unfortunately you've made so many changes that it is now impossible to tell which one(s) are causing the problem(s). At what point did you notice the train was off the track? You should check your progress after each step or you can easily get lost in the woods.
Try to "undo" all of your mods step-wise and see if you can return the harp to playability. You can then do what you will with it.
Michelle
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Tyler
44 posts
Sep 03, 2016
7:15 PM
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Thieven' - interesting thought! I dropped a few reeds down a full tone. Perhaps there's something to that. Maybe I'll try a reed swap next time. This was an old one I was resurrecting, so I'm not likely to do more work other than rechecking the air tightness.
I am also starting to wonder if solder dampens the sound... I used it on more reeds and for bigger changes than on other harps I have tweaked.
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nacoran
9226 posts
Sep 04, 2016
2:21 PM
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I haven't played with solder at all. Did you keep it right on the tip?
I remember talking to someone about technique and just how far you could tune down or up but I don't remember off the top of my head what they said. I think a full tone is within range though if it's done right. For experimental purposes you might check using blue tack to see what the limits are without actually permanently modifying a harp.
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SuperBee
4086 posts
Sep 04, 2016
2:41 PM
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Harpwrench has mentioned more than once that he successfully made Low F harps from G harps.
Greg Jones has been polishing reeds down a full tone and claims a long life for them.
I've certainly tuned reeds as much as a full tone without adding any material
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