ChasGrav
3 posts
Oct 19, 2014
6:54 AM
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I've recently become a big fan of the Seydel Blues Session harps. I have a set of seven of the standard ones, and a few with the stainless steel reeds.
One, (a Paddy Richter-tuned G), has a very slightly flat 5B reed --- just enough to bug me. I've never tuned a reed before, but have watched the videos. Doesn't look like rocket science. But this one has stainless steel reeds, which are much harder than brass. Am I better off leaving well enough alone? Has anyone out there tuned a steel reed?
Suggestions appreciated!
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Kingley
3737 posts
Oct 19, 2014
7:01 AM
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All reeds can be tuned the same. Stainless steel will just take a little more work. Tuning is a relatively easy thing to do, but it does take a little practice to get the hang of it. I'd recommend you practice on an old harmonica first, before you go working on your best harps.
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mlefree
204 posts
Oct 19, 2014
10:24 AM
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I've had so much trouble working with SS reeds that I've scuttled plans to buy any more harps with 'em. Give me brass or phosphor bronze, thank you very much.
I admit, though, to being pretty firmly in the old school.
Michelle
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SilverWingLeather.com
email: mlefree@silverwingleather.com
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SuperBee
2232 posts
Oct 19, 2014
1:34 PM
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been wondering about this also. i need to make a 'country-tuned' Lo F, and have a Tbird and 1847 to choose between. the tbird is the more expensive harp and i've been reluctant to alter it, but i fear trying to retune the stainless...
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harpwrench
926 posts
Oct 19, 2014
2:15 PM
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Nothin to be afraid of man, it's just metal. Slide a piece of paper under the reed to keep the trash isolated. Slide a single edge razor blade between the reed and the paper, for support. Cut an inch and a half square piece of 220 grit paper, and fold it over a couple times to make it stiff. Sand the tip, pay attention to how it feels, don't push so hard that you snag the tip and fold it up like an accordion as you stroke toward the rivet. Brush away the debris and remove the paper, plink and check your progress.
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www.spiersharmonicas.com
High performance harmonicas.
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SuperBee
2236 posts
Oct 19, 2014
2:19 PM
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thanks Joe
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STME58
1142 posts
Oct 19, 2014
3:26 PM
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I use sandpaper or an emery board on brass reeds. On Stainless I sometimes use a toolmakers file to get close then switch to something finer. I just replaced a reed in an 1847 and I had to bring it up a half step so I did a lot of cutting with the file.
I see that Seydel lists individual reeds in packages of three but I have not ordered any yet. This would avoid having to make big changes in donor reeds to get what is needed.
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GMaj7
533 posts
Oct 19, 2014
7:18 PM
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I use a silicone carbide abrasive bit for dropping the pitch. I put it on an electric reamer that runs variable speed 0-18000 RPM. To raise the pitch 1/4 step or less so I use the same bit. If it is a weighted reed or I need go any further than 1/4 step up, I use a copper colored polishing stone on the same rotary. I have to work fast so I have several hooked up on my bench so I don't have to replace bits. It is important that when you work on the end of the reed you have the reed pointing towards you so the bit doesn't grab the end of the reed.
STME58 - Seydel does sell them in packages of three (3). Very important to note that the order is shipped from Germany so you have to factor in a wait time. Also, it is best to plan on the reed being at least 1/2 step off. For this reason, I always grab a reed 1 whole step above what is called for and polish down.
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Greg Jones
U.S. Seydel Repair Technician
greg.jones@seydel1847.com
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nacoran
8066 posts
Oct 19, 2014
10:02 PM
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At a local jewelry store near here there used to be a stainless steel sculpture (skyline if I recall). It had a flowing fountain, and despite it's very, very pricy installation cost (it was the centerpiece for the store) it started to rust.
I won't get the rules exactly right, but my friend who worked several years in a metal shop knew the problem. If you grind stainless and don't get it cleaned properly afterwards, particularly, I think, if you grind it with another steel, the impurities allow rust to take hold. Or at least that's what I've been told. Someone who is more of an expert on metals could give more details, but since a reed is pretty thin, rust could be a killer pretty quick. I think it's just a matter of cleaning it properly after grinding.
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Nate
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