Diggsblues
1562 posts
Sep 19, 2014
10:20 AM
|
I want to order some 00-80 screws but I need to know
what screw head type, length and material I should
get (brass or stainless steel).
----------
|
arzajac
1475 posts
Sep 19, 2014
10:57 AM
|
What are they for? Holding the reed plates to the comb, holding the covers or holding reeds to the plate?
Depending on the harp, I like 10mm length. On Marine Bands, 1847 and Manjis, 10mm screws are just fine for both holding the reed plate to the comb and for securing the cover plates. The tip of the screw doesn't stick out the other end of the nut so it looks nice and is comfortable.
You can get creative and use longer screws as support posts for the covers. On Marine Bands, you can tap two screw holes on the blow plate and one on the draw plate and use 12mm screws. Two screws will protrude out the blow plate side and one on the draw side and support the covers.
Screws for reed replacement: I like longer screws for holding reeds to the plate. Really short, stubby screws are a royal pain to handle. Handling 1/4 inch (6 mm) screws is a lot easier. Once the reed is in place, I snip the extra long part off with flush-cut pliers and grind down the sharp burr.
Brass is great. Stainless is great. Some screws sold as Stainless actually rust so make sure you know what type of stainless you get (304 is good).
I find slotted heads hard to work with. Phillips are great. For holding reeds to the plate, try to get the smallest, flattest heads you can find.
I sell screws and taps, but I don't offer 00-80 - only metric. I use M1.6 instead of 00-80.
----------
Custom overblow harps. Harmonica service and repair.
|
arzajac
1476 posts
Sep 19, 2014
10:57 AM
|
(Double post - Damn you CAPTCHA!)
Last Edited by arzajac on Sep 19, 2014 10:58 AM
|
Diggsblues
1563 posts
Sep 19, 2014
11:15 AM
|
Andrew I just need it to fasten reeds to the plate when
I screw up the hole bad when I remove the rivet from the
old reed. So a flush cut pliers is what I buy at my local hardware store?
----------
|
arzajac
1477 posts
Sep 19, 2014
11:40 AM
|
Flush cut pliers:
I bought some of these for less than $4 each.
----------
Custom overblow harps. Harmonica service and repair.
Last Edited by arzajac on Sep 19, 2014 11:41 AM
|
Diggsblues
1564 posts
Sep 19, 2014
12:03 PM
|
Thanks Andrew !!
----------
|
Milsson
167 posts
Sep 19, 2014
1:02 PM
|
I have been successfully with m1.6 hex bolts. I bought them on eBay from Spalding fasteners UK. Once they sent me 12mm in stead of 10 and I wrote them an email about it and I had the new bolts within a few days without any charge. The only problem is you have to have you tool with you all the time if you have to do service no one has a tool that small laying around.
|
florida-trader
521 posts
Sep 19, 2014
1:27 PM
|
Digss. For the purpose you describe (mounting reeds to red plates as opposed to mounting reed plates to combs) 0-80 screws are a very good choice. Since you don't want them too long, 1/4 inch would be ideal. You're going to snip or file the end off anyway so you only need something long enough to get through the reed plate. I would lean toward stainless steel because they will self-tap through the softer brass. If you tap the reed plate you won't need a nut on the other side. It is a cleaner fix.
As for mounting reed plates to combs, I prefer 1-72's. You can get them for about $4.00/ screws at a lot of places - Fastenal, MicroMark, etc. 1.6 mm are much more expensive.
----------
Tom Halchak
www.BlueMoonHarmonicas.com
|
smwoerner
271 posts
Sep 19, 2014
1:49 PM
|
If you have an ACE hardware close to you most of them stock the 00-80 pan heads in stainless steel. The nice thing about stainless is that they are basically self taping in the plates if you can find a small tap. I'm pretty sure it takes 3/64 drill bit for the tap.
Ace Hardware has saved me a couple of times when I've run low. And, the stainless steel cuts very easy with the flush cut pliers. The ones ace sells are pretty good.
----------
Purveyor of Optimized New and Refurbished Harmonicas.
scott@scottwoerner.com
|
arzajac
1478 posts
Sep 19, 2014
3:54 PM
|
I've found that to be time-efficient, it's worthwhile to spend a few extra moments and tap the plate before you install the new reed.
First off, by applying a lot of force as when you would use a self-tapping screw, you can deform the reed plate and cause air leak problems. Secondly, if the screw doesn't go in straight, you are going to have a heck of a time getting that reed to sit properly in the slot.
You will easily spend 20 times the amount of time it would have taken you to just flatten, tap and install the reed in one go because you will be angling the reed from side to side, taking it off and putting it back on, enlarging the reed pad hole and most probably cursing.
M1.6 screws expensive? 100 M1.6 screws are $7. A tap is $5. And if you keep a reserve of M2 and M1.6 screws on hand, you can use them on stock Hohner, Seydel and Suzuki reed plates - they all use metric screws, either M1.6 or M2.
----------
Custom overblow harps. Harmonica service and repair.
Last Edited by arzajac on Sep 19, 2014 3:55 PM
|
florida-trader
522 posts
Sep 19, 2014
5:51 PM
|
Andrew. I would appreciate it if you could show me where I can purchase M1.6 screws for 7 cents each and taps for $5.00. That is a great price! Thanks.
----------
Tom Halchak
www.BlueMoonHarmonicas.com
|
Harp Study
45 posts
Sep 19, 2014
7:10 PM
|
Andrew- I just want to say thank you for always being so helpful. I ordered the 10mm screws from micro fasteners that you recommended on another thread and they work great.I also have a couple of your harps which are great, but I think it is wonderful how you freely share information that you have clearly worked hard to obtain. Thanks for doing great work and for being so open with your knowledge.
|
arzajac
1479 posts
Sep 19, 2014
7:38 PM
|
Harp Study: Thanks!
Tom: As I mentioned in my first post, I sell them. For other tools and taps, scroll to the bottom of the Tools page on my website.
----------
Custom overblow harps. Harmonica service and repair.
Last Edited by arzajac on Sep 19, 2014 7:42 PM
|
harpwrench
914 posts
Sep 20, 2014
7:25 AM
|
I'd be concerned that a snipped screw would destroy the threaded hole on the way back out next time you change the reed.
----------
www.spiersharmonicas.com
High performance harmonicas.
|
walterharp
1515 posts
Sep 20, 2014
9:37 AM
|
would a dremmel cut off wheel followed by a little filing be better?
i love my dremmel cut off wheel!
|
MP
3259 posts
Sep 20, 2014
1:02 PM
|
I use Seydel screws and nuts. Since you use GMs a screw post is the way to go. First I widen the hole v. slightly w/ a 4 sided pin tool. Then I thread for the screw post. Then insert screw post. Then I make a wide hole on the donor reed so I can move in all directions. I put in the reed and then add the nut. I fasten it down almost tight but enough to move the reed up down or side to side so it will be aligned. This is where a reed wrench is indispensable. Then tighten and adjust till I have it right. I often use clear nail polish as a sort of Locktite so my work won't get loose.
You can use this method on MB type harps too but you'll need to "cut a relief in the comb" as Joe Spiers advised in a long ago post. I use a tiny dental type dremel tool to make the relief hole for the head of the screw. if you worry about leaks you can put a tiny amount of Gum Dental Wax in the relief hole prior to assembly.
The post method is the reverse of what you are talking about and needs no flush cut pliers though I've used that method in the past.
Also, if the same reed breaks again replacement is easy since most of the work is done already. If you look inside a B-Rad it will show what I am explaining here. Well, I'm trying to explain. You can use Suzuki screws and nuts too
----------
Affordable Reed Replacement
Marks Harmonica Tune-up
Click user name MP for contact info
Last Edited by MP on Sep 20, 2014 1:06 PM
|
HarveyHarp
605 posts
Sep 20, 2014
2:13 PM
|
Normally, I hold the draw plate up to the curve of my belt sander and sand most of the excess screw, then finish with wet 320 sandpaper on my surface bring it flush. It only takes a few seconds, and it also touches up the flat sanding of the draw plate
----------
HarveyHarp
|
