Kingley
3049 posts
Aug 25, 2013
12:08 PM
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I recently acquired a Suzuki Manji in Bb from a forum member. Having followed the Manji for a while now and being a dyed in the wool Hohner guy I was looking forward to my first try of this highly touted harmonica. My first impressions of it were that it's extremely well made and looks very professional. It's a little heavier than the Marine Band, but I like that. It makes you feel like you have something of substance in your hands.
When I first played it though I was quite disappointed. It wasn't quite as fluid as I was expecting it to be and I had to work harder to obtain the bends. Although I could hit the overblows on 4,5 & 6 straight out of the box, I couldn't sustain them for long. It had a very pleasing tone though and felt very nice to play with no sharp edges to it. So I proceeded to do some work to it, similar to the work I do on my Marine Bands. I did some very light embossing and re-gapped it to my way of playing. This is a very easy harp to work on. That small amount of work (maybe 15 minutes) changed the harp completely. It became the harp that I've heard people rave about.
The covers now feel like they are vibrating in my hands and the more I play it the more it feels alive. All the bends are like butter, yet still retain enough solidity to let you know they aren't going to fail you. I like that a lot. The 4,5 & 6 overblows are now really easy to hit and sustain. The harp is very loud and very responsive. I can't really describe the tone. It's kind of like the Hohner but with a little less warmth, but more strength to it. It's a smoother rounder tone to me. It's very pleasing to the ear. I'm liking the Manji a lot. Over the last few days it's become my pick up and play around the house harp. The more I play it the more I like it. Whilst I don't know if it will ever replace my old Marine Bands. What is certain is that I'll be buying more Manji's.
Last Edited by Kingley on Aug 25, 2013 12:13 PM
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groyster1
2350 posts
Aug 25, 2013
12:28 PM
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I bought 3 manjis when the price was $42....marine bands are less expensive and they play very well OOTB now...I would say I prefer marine bands...manjis are easier to work on but that is their only advantage over mb 1896
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Rick Davis
2263 posts
Aug 25, 2013
12:30 PM
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I have several Manji harps, and I like them a lot. I bought them from Ronnie Shellist, a Manji endorser.
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-Little Rick Davis
The Blues Harp Amps Blog
The Mile High Blues Society
Tip Jar
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the_happy_honker
160 posts
Aug 25, 2013
1:36 PM
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As hvyj used to say (miss that guy, dammit!), Suzuki harps generally are more "focused" in tone than Marine Bands, whose tone is more "spread-out." Manjis fit that description pretty well, too.
I agree that Manjis play very nicely, when properly gapped and profiled, but judging from my own experience, it can take a while before one "gets" how to do it. The 3 draw is especially fiddlely that way. But you are right - what a nice harp when done right!
I mangled my third Manji cover plate apparently just by thinking negative thoughts in its vicinity. After that, I decided to put Promaster cover plates on them, a solution that has worked well for me.
Can anyone confirm the rumour that Suzuki has begun making them a bit more durable? Gnarly?
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jimbo-G
176 posts
Aug 25, 2013
2:07 PM
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glad you like it man, i recently revived a marine band in Bb which i really like,(after some gapping to suit).
The thing i found with manji's is that i feel like you have to fight with it to get the bends out, and move around. the top end and overblows however were truly amazing though.
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Grey Owl
273 posts
Aug 25, 2013
2:17 PM
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Very similar to you Kingley. I bought a Bb and my first impressions were not good. It was a bit airy and bends not great, also the cover plates were the weakest I've played and not even a pillar support to help. (although as I don't squeeze the harp it's not a big deal for me.)
I also played around with the setup and that helped no end. All blow bends, draw bends, OB's (even hole 1) and Od's are there and are comfortable to play.
I don't play it that often as I have a couple of really nice Bb's (Sp 20 & Session Steel) but I took it out tonight and heck it does play well.
It does everything that can be expected of a good harp. However, I think one of the issues with me was that it almost has too much presence and volume, it's a bit in your face, like an MB on steroids but doesn't quite have that lovely indefinable tone of the MB.
Anyway you've revived my interest in the harp and it looks like it's going to get a chance to come out and play more often. Nice one.
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Grey Owl YouTube
Grey Owl Abstract Photos
Last Edited by Grey Owl on Aug 25, 2013 2:20 PM
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S-harp
167 posts
Aug 25, 2013
2:31 PM
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Did you flatsand the comb and the draw plate?
On my Manjis that made a big difference. All my Manjis had leaks between the the first three tines. Made the 3 bend and respond better.
The covers bend easily, as mentioned. That can be fixed by working the ridge on the back. Hammer it back further, increasing the bend-wing. That makes the coverplate more sturdy.
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The tone, the tone ... and the Tone
Last Edited by S-harp on Aug 25, 2013 2:50 PM
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Kingley
3051 posts
Aug 25, 2013
2:38 PM
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Jimbo - Yeah it's a very nice harp. Thank you. At first I felt like you about the bends, but once I did some light embossing that cured it.
Grey Owl - I find I can play it quietly or loudly. It has a very useable dynamic range.
S-harp - No I didn't flat sand the comb or the reed plate, Didn't need too. All I did was gap it and do some light embossing.
Last Edited by Kingley on Aug 25, 2013 2:39 PM
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S-harp
168 posts
Aug 25, 2013
3:07 PM
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Kingley ... sanding is boring, I know ... but if you have time over some day, do it ... the Manjis get even better. They are good as is, but flatsanding the drawplate and comb does make a bigger differance than sizing/embossing, specially on holes 2-3 and sometimes 4.
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The tone, the tone ... and the Tone
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jimbo-G
177 posts
Aug 25, 2013
3:20 PM
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i was too scared to try any embossing on it just in case i destroyed it. the tolerances are tight and they are not the cheapest harps out there. Glad someone can get more use from it than me.
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HarveyHarp
487 posts
Aug 25, 2013
5:26 PM
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I too bought 3 Manjis when they first came out for abouit $40. I have to say that I hated them. I kept them in my car for car harps, but every time I grabbed one I cussed at it. So, as everyone said before me, I customized it, and it came alive. I decided to turn them into Melody Makers, which is a cross between a Padyrichtor, and a country tuned harp. First position is basicly in Am, which is the relative minor of C. You have a second position major scale, without bends, and you have a country tuned harp. The Manji did it extremely well. Then I lost it at a gig, da da da da.
As for the Manji coverplates, get 3 2mmX12mm panhead screws and replace the bolts that are there. For the middle one, screw it in from the bottom, and fasten the blow plate to it with a 2mm nut. You can run over it with a truck now. Well not exactly.
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HarveyHarp
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walterharp
1157 posts
Aug 25, 2013
7:31 PM
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I have had similar experiences with the low end of these harps.. and the top being fantastic out of the box.
Interesting I played all the Manji's that Tom put together for the great comb debate, and the stock one had the same lack of compression on the low end but his custom combs (acrylic, corian, brass and aluminum) all seemed to have more response on the low end, so maybe the sanding is, for some of them at least, and important thing to make a good harp even better.
I like the ones I have and would recommend them to anybody
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HarpNinja
3423 posts
Aug 25, 2013
7:34 PM
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Broke out a stock D today...brand new. It was awful and near impossible to bend. Flat sanded the draw plate and comb...big difference. Then I gapped. That made it playable for non overblows.
I then went ahead and embossed and profiled holes 1-3. Now we are talking! Suckily, a stock MB plays as well with two minutes of gapping. This harp will smoke eventually, but it is a lot of work.
The stock comb was insanely warped and the stock gaps were huge.
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Mantra Customized Harmonicas
My Website
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jbone
1340 posts
Aug 25, 2013
7:36 PM
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I may be out of my league here, I don't gap, overblow, all that stuff. I take a harp out of the box and if it does not suit me I don't get another one. Period. I wouldn't buy a new car I had to work on either, or a fishing reel.
The tradeoff here is I may not get "the most" out of a harp. The three exceptions are Special 20, which I used for years, and the Big River, which became the Sp20's replacement as prices went up. And third is the Manji. The Hohners just didn't stand up to the superior design and build of the Manji. Hohner reeds and slot tolerances are not as tight as Manji and the brass recipe is different, the Manji brass holding up longer to my playing style. True, I have worn out some reeds on the Suzukis, but at about $30 a pop for reed plates, for a very well built harp, and longevity over all when it comes to reed life, I can live with that.
I'm an average consumer. I want it easy for my hard earned blue collar buck. Having tried a lot of flavors of harp over a lot of years, and been disappointed by most, I am happy to have landed squarely on Manji as my go-to harp. Good tone, excellent volume and projection yet can play soft as a feather as well, nicely built and finished. What else do you need? The story behind Manji is, the old man at Suzuki, named Manji by the way, designed his own best go-to harp, and developed excellent through-put operations to build it to his standards. You see and hear the result every time you buy one.
I've said it before: If Hohner had built a harp of this caliber at an affordable price, that didn't need tweaking out of the box, I'd still be buying MB's or SP20's. They didn't, and here is the best production harp I've yet to see in 42 years of looking. Nuff said.
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http://www.reverbnation.com/jawboneandjolene
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wa7La7yYYeE
Last Edited by jbone on Aug 25, 2013 7:38 PM
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Gnarly
672 posts
Aug 25, 2013
8:21 PM
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Hi gang--
Yes, the CP are now heftier, probably as good as a MB but not as stomp proof as Promaster CP-- I really like those.
And I like the Manji, but prefer the Olive for my playing style--not as bluesy.
Flat sanding the draw plate does help. Airtight harps play better.
My impression is that Suzuki Japan make the best harp they can, and then set the price. We have a bunch of really good harps in the $60-80 price range (hvyj liked the Hammond, so do I ).
I imagine aftermarket combs probably help, I only have one, it's on my Joe Spiers Stage One, but anything that makes a harp more airtight will make you a better player.
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FMWoodeye
782 posts
Aug 25, 2013
9:27 PM
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Call me silly, but I feel that if I'm paying a premium price for a premium harp, it should play well OOTB. This has been my experience with the Crossover, so far, with a sample size of eight.
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Gnarly
673 posts
Aug 26, 2013
12:06 AM
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I will resist the urge to call you silly . . .
What I tell people is, you can always improve a harmonica.
Lots of folks play Manjis straight out of the box and never complain.
I'm glad you like the Crossover, I like the ones I have played--there are plenty of SP20s in my kit. I have even grown to enjoy the 1897.
I do not apologize for the Suzuki line, but I do service them--in fact, I am the one guy in the US that does warranty repairs.
Flat sanding the comb is not a warranty issue, but if you don't like the way your Suzuki harmonica plays, I am happy to examine it and see if there is something I can do to make it better. So far, folks are satisfied with my work.
Suzuki has a one year warranty . . .
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Kingley
3057 posts
Aug 26, 2013
12:39 AM
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I think that every player should learn how to gap their harps. It's just like setting up your guitar to make it play the way you want it too. Many guitarists put thinner strings on their guitars when they buy them to get a faster action and make it play better for their style of playing. Gapping a harmonica is just the same. You gap it so that you can play all the bends, overblows and overdraws available with ease. I have some harps that I've never had to gap, but most need gapping out of the box to make them play right. I'd rather concentrate on playing music than having to fight a harp to get what I want out of it, that's why I gap and usually light emboss pretty much every harp I get. That's all that most of them need for me. I don't flat sand unless I have too as most of the combs on the stock harps these days are pretty good in my experience.
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FMWoodeye
783 posts
Aug 26, 2013
1:26 AM
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@Gnarly and Kingley...fair enough. I must add in support of your position that when I blow out Sp20 "practice" harps and send them to Andrew for repair, he tunes, gaps does whatever he does to make them more airtight(and probably does some other stuff), and they come back playing better than new. The fee is nominal, and the result is consistent. Works for me.
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florida-trader
347 posts
Aug 26, 2013
4:21 AM
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A few thoughts occurred to me as I read this thread.
First, it seems that everyone who has posted has an overabundance of harps to choose from - MB’s, SP20’s, Crossovers, Manjis, 1847’s and Session Steels. This is a pretty god neighborhood.
Second, there’s a lot of talent. It isn’t every thread where people so casually mention OBing the 4,5 & 6 not to mention the 1.
Third, nearly everyone is committed to the basics – gapping, flat sanding draw plates, flat sanding combs and light embossing. Harvey even threw in a little re-tuning. I call them the basics because those four things are the starting point to making just about any harp play better. Pareto’s Law – aka the 80/20 Rule - in short, states that 80% of the effects can be attributed to 20% of the causes. Those four things – gapping, flat sanding the draw plate, flat sanding the comb and light embossing – are the 20% that make the 80% improvement on most any harp (my opinion). In my mind, the professional customizers who cater to the harp community live in the space between the 81% to 100% - the last 20% if you will – that takes 80% of the effort. That’s just how I see it.
One thing that I would add to this conversation is the fact that Suzuki has more of a modular approach to their design. The footprint on all their reed plates and combs is the same. Everything is built with screws. Replacement parts are reasonably priced. So long term, if a reed plate goes south, replacing it is an easier task than with Marine Bands. I’m not knocking Marine Bands. I love them too. But I can live without the nails.
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Tom Halchak
www.BlueMoonHarmonicas.com
Last Edited by florida-trader on Aug 26, 2013 4:22 AM
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Kingley
3058 posts
Aug 26, 2013
4:43 AM
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"One thing that I would add to this conversation is the fact that Suzuki has more of a modular approach to their design. The footprint on all their reed plates and combs is the same."
Tom - Does that mean that all the combs and reedplates of Suzuki harps are interchangeable?
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florida-trader
348 posts
Aug 26, 2013
5:34 AM
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Kingley
For the most part they are. The footprint of the combs are identical but they have a slightly different hole pattern for the screws. For example the Manji covers mount with single screws on either end that are toward the front of the harp. The ProMaster, Hammond and Olive are full length covers that have screw holes on the center of the ends of the comb. There is some difference in the number of reed plate screws that are used - like Hohner does with the MS-Series - but all of that is easily remedied by drilling holes in the combs where needed. By comparison, it is far easier to drill holes in the combs than to perform much of the reed work discussed in this thread. The combs I make for Suzukis have all the holes to fit any model. And lastly, all the covers are interchangable as long as you have the right holes and screws.
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Tom Halchak
www.BlueMoonHarmonicas.com
Last Edited by florida-trader on Aug 26, 2013 5:37 AM
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Kingley
3061 posts
Aug 26, 2013
7:33 AM
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Thanks for the clarification Tom. All pretty interesting stuff. I agree with you on the 1896 Marine Bands. I love the tone of them, but changing them over to screws is a pain in the backside. I'd much rather spend my bench time working on the reeds than messing about drilling and tapping for screws. The Deluxe, Crossover and Manji allow me to do that.
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Sherwin
79 posts
Aug 26, 2013
3:58 PM
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What fun it is to see all this discussion about the Manji.
It is it's own animal certainly,and a bit of a beast....tamed somewhat by arcing and gapping. I stopped embossing a while ago, I don't like the sound.
What an amazing harp the Manji is. I gave one Hohner's prewar tuning recently and find the result very enjoyable.
I've always been very impressed with this harp, and am glad it is on the scene, it's my second favourite harp, the self customized 1896 WITH NAILS being my favourite.
Sherwin
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groyster1
2353 posts
Aug 26, 2013
5:28 PM
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why the nails?not user friendly......but putting in screws in mb1896 does not make them play any better
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Sherwin
80 posts
Aug 26, 2013
8:18 PM
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@ groyster, ya the nail thing......I've got: the screws, a tap, a drill press, and have never bothered converting an M.B. to screw construction. Though I do own many excellent screwed together harps. I find nails are simple, and I get a kick out of having a super performing...wolf in sheep's clothing 1896, also I've got a client who insists the nailed together M.B.s sound better. I've made many harps for him (my attempt to recreate the sound playing feel, and tuning of the prewar era M.B.s).
I do find a well set up nailed together M.B. to be like no other harp. The first Marine Band I got, I played for a minute and thought right away, HOLY SHIT this thing is alive! I had to sit in my car outside the music store and just look at the harp for a time, incredulous.
I consider the nails to be loveable pains in the ass, kinda like my best friends are, and think both are well worth the trouble.
Back to the Manji..well it's the only other harp that has impressed me in this way, and the only other harp I have any real desire to customize for my own playing.
Sherwin
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MP
2900 posts
Aug 27, 2013
3:06 PM
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On Monday I worked on three of my favorite out of box harps. Two Crossovers and a Manji.
these were all fairly new harps and i couldn't believe how badly they were setup. When these models came out you didn't need to touch them at all. They played extremely well. I'm not talking OBs and such but just regular old style playing before Levy ripped it up and raised the bar.
when the customers told me their harps were 'dogs'
i thought it was pilot error. in other words, they didn't know how to play a harp for beans. How wrong i was!
Seems to me that once a company has a good product the demand goes up and the quality goes down. Anyone else notice failing quality on Xovers and Manjis? RSVP?
Even so, most OOB harps are fine, but this was a surprise. The draw reeds were up in the air like salutes. i used a hook tool i made out of a wire hanger to gap them. Then i adjusted the blows w/ the same tool. Now they play like when they were introduced. (sigh) oh well..:-)
Howzit groyster!
speaking of nails....did my best on your MBs. Bending the mouse ear covers ( they were crushed pretty badly) was a pain as were all those nails. I've left everything stock though i needed small, thin strips of
surgical tape to correct the mouse ear leaks between the covers and the comb. once these are crushed they rarely sit flush and even ever again.
One of the Hickvilles is a two nailer bottom plate that puts it in Hohners bad years. It's not bad but not wonderful either.
i know i've had them [your harps] for some time but tuning takes a lot of time. If the tuning is alright on Fri i'll send them back.
even so, you have a very fine mouse ear MB in 7LJI
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MP
affordable reed replacement and repairs.
"making the world a better place, one harmonica at a time"
click user name [MP] for info-
repair videos on YouTube.
you can reach me via Facebook. Mark Prados
Last Edited by MP on Aug 27, 2013 3:23 PM
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jbone
1342 posts
Aug 27, 2013
6:55 PM
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I went through a sort of phase where I would work on MB's, drill/tap/screw, deburr, seal comb. They did work better even with no gapping or other reed tweaks, BUT they lasted less time since they were then more efficient at moving air across the reeds. When Manji hit the scene it was all a MB SHOULD HAVE been if Hohner was paying attention.
I appreciate you all who like fine tuning a harp, but the cheapskate in me detests the idea of first buying a harp and then paying to have it reworked, or taking the time learning and then more time doing it myself.
I do pretty well with what comes out of the box. Manji is my primary diatonic. I use a Suzuki CSX 12 hole chromatic a lot as well since it is very well built for the price. It may be that I am i8n a place where nobody really applies themselves to learn the better ways a harp can be played. And I definitely have leagues to go before I could be called a well-rounded player, but at this stage of the game I want a simple well built harp I can drive off the road when I feel like it, or take on the speedway. Manji has filled the bill until something better emerges.
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http://www.reverbnation.com/jawboneandjolene
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100000386839482
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wa7La7yYYeE
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capnj
158 posts
Aug 27, 2013
9:10 PM
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I have fallen out of the manji fold,they just don't feel right for me,and are to bright.Everybody is different,and all ootb harps take on this transgression,have to agree with Mp about quality control,when things get popular.
I have a ootb special 20 C that stinks,and then a G that plays like Joe Spiers monstered it.Yes I must learn to gap because of this fact,even though my wishful thinking that the harp makers send out a quality perfected product has held me back because of stubborn beliefs that have been proven wrong.
Steel reeds in the seydells were supposed to be the perfect answer to longevity,hogwash they crack off faster than brass,and will go out of tune.I do love their sound,in the keys of A-C-G to keep getting reed plates fixed.Yes we have a fairly expensive hobby we are addicted to,and alot of choices,which is a good thing.
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Gnarly
679 posts
Aug 27, 2013
9:53 PM
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Hey capnj, try learning to gap on your Manjis and if you "f" them up, call us at Suzuki and we will honor the warranty--just don't drive over them with a truck or pour motor oil into them.
And BTW, I will pit my Stage One SP20 in G against your stock one any day of the week!
Last Edited by Gnarly on Aug 27, 2013 9:54 PM
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hooktool
72 posts
Aug 27, 2013
10:03 PM
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That's a good offer Gnarly-I may work on my Manjis a little.I have five of them, and I like the sound and feel, but I seem to have to work hard to play them.
MP set me up three SP20's and they are smooth and easy to play up and down the harp. Bought a MS Blues Harp from him, same deal. Maybe I should just send him all my harps. :)
John
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PropMan
4 posts
Aug 27, 2013
10:22 PM
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MP- I told you they didn't play like my other Crossovers! So happy you're able to turn $140 worth of practically unplayable harp into something I can use!!! The C harp made me feel like I was dying of emphysema on the 3 and 4 draw.
Allan
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TetonJohn
129 posts
Aug 28, 2013
8:06 AM
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I have a Manji in A that I grab when playing acoustically with other musicians and need to cut through the mix (either playing with no microphone or all of us standing around a condenser); "A" being a relatively quiet harp, I find the Manji's available volume to help (at least it sounds that way to me).
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HarpNinja
3425 posts
Aug 28, 2013
8:40 AM
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If you buy a Crossover or 1847 and it doesn't play great OOTB, that can usually be fixed by gapping alone. It isn't imperative to emboss or flat sand, although either will improve playability.
With every Manji or Olive I've tried OOTB, they are unplayable until you gap. Even then, they feel very leaky.
If gapping hasn't helped enough, then flat sand both the draw plate and comb. Before you tell me that you don't need to sand the draw plate because they are welded, actually check for its flatness. They are just as unflat as any Hohner or Seydel.
IMO, when you look at actual price of the top level harps at Rockin Ron's...
Crossover $65
1847 $89.95
Manji $63.50
With any of the three you get a solid comb (that will not be flat), vented covers, and compromise tuning.
I listed the three in my order of preference. I have played stock XO's that rival many custom 1896 harps from the earlier part of this century (if you don't ovebend or require a different tuning).
1847's typically play pretty well OOTB too, but are more inclined to squeal when over bending, and to be perfectly honest, don't always have consistent profiles from reed to reed compared to Hohner harps.
The Manji generally has huge gaps, flimsy covers, and horrible bending capabilities in holes 1-3, especially on the higher keys.
I could almost surely gig with an OOTB Crossover. I could probably gig with an OOTB 1847 if I didn't need to overbend at all, or did so in passing (I have no hesitation sustaining and bending an OB, however).
I have not played a Manji I would be able to gig with OOTB. My sample size is in the dozens.
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Mantra Customized Harmonicas
My Website
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Gnarly
680 posts
Aug 28, 2013
10:52 AM
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Mike, and everyone else--
Our harmonicas come with a one-year warranty. If you're not satisfied with the way they play, contact Daron at 800 854 1594 X44411 and I will personally examine the instrument to see if it can be improved.
We make a great product, and I want everyone to be happy.
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MP
2905 posts
Aug 28, 2013
1:26 PM
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hooktool,
i'm so glad you like your harps. There is no feeling quite like having a satisfied customer. You made my day. Big Mahalo!
PropMan,
My bad! Crossovers are supposed to be wonderful OOB. i'm sorry. It is just that once in awhile people will send me really good harps and say they don't play well.
the C was a freakin dog and i almost replaced your 6 blow on your A because it didn't respond like it should on the OB. I embossed it and messed around but i am not sure i'm satisfied. I just might replace it. if i do, i'll give it a wax job for good measure. Normally all i have to do is straighten the reed, lower the zero, and add a gradual incline. I'll also mess with the draw reed so the blow chokes when needed for a good, fast, sustainable OB.
Often, rather than trouble shoot a problematic reed, i'll just pull it and replace it w/ a reed i like the sound of.
you'll get them back soon[your harps] and the C is like night and day from when i received it. the A is nice and warm. there is something to be said about not sizing reed slots to make them tonally brassy.
Aloha, Mark
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MP
affordable reed replacement and repairs.
"making the world a better place, one harmonica at a time"
click user name [MP] for info-
repair videos on YouTube.
you can reach me via Facebook. Mark Prados
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HarveyHarp
493 posts
Aug 28, 2013
1:31 PM
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Gary, so what do you have against soaking your harp in Motor Oil. It works especially well on old Marine Band, without having to take them apart. It seals the combs, and makes them real tight. And you never have to have more than a 2 week warranty, because the player dies by then.LOL Kids, don't try this at home.
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HarveyHarp
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Gnarly
681 posts
Aug 28, 2013
3:12 PM
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Hey man, I have one of your HarveyHarps and like it, now I know the secret LOL
And MP, keep giving away your secrets, I'm all ears 8)
Last Edited by Gnarly on Aug 28, 2013 3:14 PM
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capnj
159 posts
Aug 28, 2013
9:33 PM
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Yes Gnarly you are right I am exaggerating on that special 20 G.Just pulled out a promaster Bb you fixed for me,and it plays as good as anything I,ve got.Suzuki warranty is very nice business.Manji is a great instrument,but I bet if I bought one in Japan it would be better,just like fishing reels.Shimano and Daiwa both have better reels for the home folk that is the way they operate,They have treated me fine,still cranking.
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HarveyHarp
495 posts
Aug 29, 2013
7:57 AM
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Gary, Come to New Orleans and I will give you all my secrets, though I think you are probably better at it than I.
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HarveyHarp
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MP
2906 posts
Aug 29, 2013
11:43 AM
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Yep Harvey, Dontcha just hate finding out late in the game you got a pigs ear? :-)
And Gnarly, Do people still have jealously guarded trade secrets? :-)
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MP
affordable reed replacement and repairs.
"making the world a better place, one harmonica at a time"
click user name [MP] for info-
repair videos on YouTube.
you can reach me via Facebook. Mark Prados
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HarveyHarp
496 posts
Aug 29, 2013
12:14 PM
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MP, it happens all the time. Luckily I have a bunch of good vintage used harps, and I just tell the customer that I am going to swap his out for mine. I know you do that to. I think we are in the wrong thread for this conversation, though. This is the Manji Thread.
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HarveyHarp
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MP
2907 posts
Aug 30, 2013
12:01 PM
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Yeah Harv, we are in the wrong thread and it's my fault. yeah, i'll do that swap thing when someone sends a broken MS w/ shop head rivets.
but back to Manjis-At 63.50 i expect a little more.
Sorta on topic. seems the Manji, Firebreath, and Olive have interchangeable reed plates.
i adjusted a dog of an Olive a week or so ago.
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MP
affordable reed replacement and repairs.
"making the world a better place, one harmonica at a time"
click user name [MP] for info-
repair videos on YouTube.
you can reach me via Facebook. Mark Prados
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Kingley
3077 posts
Aug 30, 2013
12:09 PM
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Here's a little sound file of my slightly tweaked Manji.
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HarpNinja
3494 posts
Sep 27, 2013
7:21 AM
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Completed the Manji in D referenced above. It is listed on the For Sale page. I am selling it as an optimized Mantra harp, but the first three holes have had as much work as if it were a full blown custom.
The harp is loud with a lot of cut and very snappy bends...perfect for blues playing. The blow bends are also super smooth, which can be tricky to set up regardless of model.
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Mantra Customized Harmonicas
My Website
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