HawkeyeKane
1397 posts
Jan 15, 2013
1:30 PM
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If I were to build a custom clone of a given amphead that in it's original state did NOT have an impedance selector, would I just need a three position impedance switch? Is it really that simple?
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Hawkeye Kane
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Rick Davis
1163 posts
Jan 15, 2013
2:03 PM
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Tim, are you talking about mic impedance or speaker impedance?
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-Rick Davis
The Blues Harp Amps Blog
The Mile High Blues Society
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HawkeyeKane
1398 posts
Jan 15, 2013
1:56 PM
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Speaker impedance. Hmmmm....well from what JD tels me, that could prove an additional challenge to the amp I have in mind to build. Back to legwork research.
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Hawkeye Kane
Last Edited by on Jan 15, 2013 1:58 PM
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HawkeyeKane
1399 posts
Jan 15, 2013
2:13 PM
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Heh...I want to build a head clone of a Kalamazoo Reverb 12 with some of my own modifications. Info on the original parts manifest is next to nil. I would think with the similar characteristics to the Princeton Reverb or the Blues Jr, an OT comparable to those amps might work, am I wrong?
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Hawkeye Kane
Last Edited by on Jan 15, 2013 2:17 PM
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SuperBee
825 posts
Jan 15, 2013
7:21 PM
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I have several amps with multi tap OTs. None of them use a switch to switch between taps. I think it's easier to break a switch. My Epi Vj/legacy valve heads have jacks for 4, 8 or 16 ohm, Ashton 4 and 8, Deville has a multi tap OT but just wired for 2 ohm now, G-BH Filmosound has 8 & 16
I see speaker cabs with switches for different wiring but none of my amps.
I bet some amps have switches for it but I reckon you're better off with multi jacks and clear labels
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Rick Davis
1166 posts
Jan 15, 2013
7:31 PM
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Multiple jacks. That is what I had on my Masco.
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-Rick Davis
The Blues Harp Amps Blog
The Mile High Blues Society
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Thievin' Heathen
131 posts
Jan 16, 2013
4:54 AM
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All of my Peaveys have 4 and 8 ohm jacks.
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HawkeyeKane
1400 posts
Jan 16, 2013
6:46 AM
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I may wind up doing the multiple jacks route, but I'm trying to keep the size of the head as small as possible, which is why I thought of the switch route. I have a very nice old wooden silverware case that would look nice as an amphead, but if I manage it, it'll be a tight fit.
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Hawkeye Kane
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Greg Heumann
1948 posts
Jan 16, 2013
8:01 AM
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There is nothing wrong with doing this with a switch. Sounds like a good solution to the "tight space" problem. Multi-position rotary switches are available in lots of different sizes and configurations.
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/Greg
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HawkeyeKane
1401 posts
Jan 16, 2013
8:24 AM
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@JD
I fail to see how this...
will take up more space in the chassis and on the back panel than three of these...
Ideally, yes, jacks would be the way to go. It'd allow for more than one speaker cabinet to be used simultaneously. But I honestly don't think I'm gonna have room for them in the head.
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Hawkeye Kane
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HawkeyeKane
1402 posts
Jan 16, 2013
10:35 AM
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@JD
Let it be known that Hawkeye Kane (a banker by his day trade, ironically enough) is a mathematical doofus. ;-)
I guess I'd have to wait and see what my final dimensions would be and what was left for me after the chassis, tubes, tank, and trannies. The box I have is fairly shallow, but it is pretty wide in internal area. My plan is to try to mount the tubes horizontally on an upturned piece of the chassis plate. Likewise, the transformers would go in their own designated spot, same for the reverb tank. Just have to take a look and see what I'm left with if it all pans out the way I envision it.
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Hawkeye Kane
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HawkeyeKane
1403 posts
Jan 16, 2013
12:03 PM
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I know you weren't razzing me dude. It was a good point. I'm still pretty new at this game, so friendly reminders are always welcome.
Greg, as you probably already know, the original Reverb 12 had a solid state rectifier. But I'm thinking I want my version to be all-tube. With the reverb circuitry, I doubt the 6X4 they put in the M1 and M2 would suffice. But the 5AR4 that went in the BF Princeton Reverb seems like a good fit. Would you agree? JD, if you have a take on it as well, I'm all ears.
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Hawkeye Kane
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