groyster1
1828 posts
Mar 30, 2012
10:11 AM
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for those of you changing out Sp20 reedplates and combs,there has apparently been a change in screws made by hohner.....can anybody shed light on this????
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Adam Hamil
37 posts
Mar 30, 2012
11:03 AM
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The newer screws are the same as the old ones in size, but are now plain stainless steel instead of the older anodized ones. The threads and heads are the same.
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C. Adam Hamil
HOHNER CERTIFIED Free Reed Instrument Technician
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MP
2138 posts
Mar 30, 2012
12:39 PM
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they appear to be self tapping Adam. true?
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MP
doctor of semiotics and reed replacement.
"making the world a better place, one harmonica at a time"
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Adam Hamil
38 posts
Mar 30, 2012
8:30 PM
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@MP - Yes indeed, they are self tapping. In fact, the reedplate screws on SP20, MB Deluxe, MB Crossover, MB Thunderbird, all MS models, and Chromatics are self tapping.
This means that if you have empty screw holes (or drill new ones) in one of these models, and you have or buy extra Hohner screws, you can drive them into the plate with a screwdriver. This is great for adding some resonance and air tightness to your harp.
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C. Adam Hamil
HOHNER CERTIFIED Free Reed Instrument Technician
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groyster1
1830 posts
Mar 31, 2012
12:17 AM
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the new steel screws are sorry...go back to brass
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Teleguit
5 posts
Mar 31, 2012
7:04 AM
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@groyster What makes them sorry? I'm not trying to be argumentative as I am genuinely curious. Are the brass screws better to work with or is there a sonic difference? If so, I might build up a couple of SP20s with each style screw and see if I hear the difference.
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groyster1
1831 posts
Mar 31, 2012
7:19 AM
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I have never had a problem with screws that would not tighten...I have changed reedplates and combs on Sp20s with ease before but these screws that were put into my newest Sp20 are steel and possibly machine installed @hohner factory-have already sent the harp off for help luckily I have enough Sp20s to last a lifetime so wont have to go through this again
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Teleguit
6 posts
Mar 31, 2012
7:30 AM
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Ok. I have worked with both but haven't that issue yet. Did you send it back to Hohner or somewhere else?
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barbequebob
1852 posts
Mar 31, 2012
7:33 AM
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A number of customizers often use stainless steel screws when they convert MB's from nails to screws, so there really shouldn't be any real problems as far as reed plate screws are concerned. The only SS screws that tends to be a problem are the coverplate screws used on the MS harps and Seydels because they use Pozidriv screws (Pozidriv#1 for Hohner, Pozidriv#0 for Seydel) and those tend to shred in the slot the screwdriver goes into but a lot of people tend to overtighten the screws quite often.
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Sincerely,
Barbeque Bob Maglinte
Boston, MA
http://www.barbequebob.com
CD available at http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/bbmaglinte
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groyster1
1832 posts
Mar 31, 2012
10:06 AM
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@Teleguit
sent it to a harp tech...they can all remedy the problem with ease....several members of this forum are skilled enough to help
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MP
2139 posts
Mar 31, 2012
11:38 AM
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Actually groyster,
the old screws only looked brass. they are magnetic.
i really like the old screws because i have a magnet on my screwdriver. good for picking them up off the floor, or removing from the reed plate after they are loose.
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MP
doctor of semiotics and reed replacement.
"making the world a better place, one harmonica at a time"
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groyster1
1834 posts
Mar 31, 2012
12:16 PM
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dont know if its possible to strip out screws on removal or not and wonder if they were machine installed @factory and maybe the machine torqued them....all I know is that this has only happened with my newest Sp20 less than 6 months old...I have found that some of the older Sp20s combs were installed with nails so I abandoned plans to change out these combs
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MP
2140 posts
Mar 31, 2012
1:54 PM
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groyster,
the older screws are steel with some sort of brass anodized? coating. they are slightly softer than the new stainless ones so one had to be careful not to strip them by forcing them in.
now, the new ones don't strip but but you have to be careful they don't strip your reed plate holes by over tightening them.
basically, when installing screws, if you have too much resistance, back out the screw and try over again. even if it takes ten tries it will eventually
go in correctly.
personally, i don't care for self taping screws but whatever..:)
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MP
doctor of semiotics and reed replacement.
"making the world a better place, one harmonica at a time"
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ElkRiverHarmonicas
772 posts
Mar 31, 2012
4:44 PM
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BTW Seydel and Hohner screws are interchangeable.
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David
Elk River Harmonicas
Elk River Harmonicas on Facebook
"It's difficult to think anything but pleasant thoughts while eating a homegrown tomato." - Lewis Grizzard
"Also, drinking homemade beer." - David Payne
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groyster1
1835 posts
Mar 31, 2012
5:38 PM
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all 6 phillips screws from the reedplate to the comb would not tighten at all and all I did was remove the cover plate screws but noticed that one of the clover nuts would not go back on BTW I changed another Sp20 comb out with hetrick comb after and it went in no problem...this was not my first rodeo on this so Im at a loss with what happened except that the screws stripped on removal
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Zadozica
185 posts
Apr 01, 2012
8:16 AM
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Who sells screws and nuts this small and where can you buy a taping tool to tap a MB?
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florida-trader
101 posts
Apr 01, 2012
10:37 AM
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Zadozica
As one who builds a lot of harps I have plenty of screws. If you are just looking for one or two sets I would be happy to send some to you at no charge. If you need a bunch you can get them at Fastenal or http://www.microfasteners.com/ For what it is worth, a lot of guys use the 0-80 screws and nuts. I like something a little bigger so I use the 3/8" 1-72 screws and nuts. They are just a tiny bit bigger yet the nuts are still small enough that if you use them in the tines between reeds or reed pads they fit without getting in the way. You can also get a 1-72 tap from Microfastener. One more thing, a lot of guys use the 1.6mm screws which I believe is what you will find on MS and GM harps.
groyster1 I would prefer not to use nuts if I can get away with it but I find that if you take apart and reassemble a harp a few times, it doesn't take much to strip the threads on a tapped plate. The brass is so soft. If you want some screws for your SP20 harps, the same offer I made to Zadozica goes for you.
The bottom line is it doesn't really matter which screws you use as long as you can get a nice seal between the reed plates and comb.
Just email me directly and I will be happy to help either of you out.
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groyster1
1837 posts
Apr 01, 2012
12:29 PM
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thanks florida trader and all others who responded...as I said I have changed out reedplates and combs to hetrick combs so I know Im capable...when this misfortune with my newest Sp20 occured I was quite pissed even though the sky is not falling...always appreciate and respect each and everyone of you....
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Zadozica
187 posts
Apr 02, 2012
6:07 AM
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Florida Trader, thank you for the offer. I need more than a few since I am going to start working on my own harps, but again, thank you very much.
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Gnarly
178 posts
Apr 03, 2012
1:48 PM
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It DOES seem like the new silver ones are a teensy bit bigger than the gold ones.
I don't think that's my imagination! Well, maybe . . .
They are OK as long as you are careful--like everyone says, if you have to force it, you've got it wrong.
Might be something like, if you want it bad, you get it bad--and the worse you want it, the worse you get it.
"Easy does it"
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MP
2152 posts
Apr 03, 2012
3:03 PM
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""Easy does it" "
exactly! i have a habit of putting the same screws back in the holes they came from. almost without fail, they thread in easier.
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MP
affordable reed replacement and repairs.
"making the world a better place, one harmonica at a time"
click user name for info-
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