Littoral
339 posts
Aug 20, 2011
8:35 AM
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If I soak MB combs in mineral oil for 3 days & dry for 3 more will the combs be sealed? Should I resand afterwards?
Sorry for all the questions. I will get this right.
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Seven.Oh.Three.
156 posts
Aug 20, 2011
8:48 AM
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I'm sure somebody will chime in with the difference but the way I understand it is that mineral oil makes the comb water (moisture) resistant. Which keeps them from swelling. There is a difference between water resistant and sealed. I can't remember all the differences.
I seal my MB combs with butchers block oil (mineral oil) and flat sand them both before and after soaking. After they soak they generally don't require much sanding.
7.o.3.
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Littoral
341 posts
Aug 20, 2011
10:10 AM
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Mineral oil is butcher block oil? Ok. Didn't know.
True, I don't need sealed but resistant.
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Seven.Oh.Three.
157 posts
Aug 20, 2011
11:08 AM
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That may be inacurate. I'll have to search some old threads to make sure. But im semi-sure.
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nacoran
4481 posts
Aug 20, 2011
11:52 AM
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You are correct sir! Butcher's Block is mineral oil.
The thing to look for is one without any chemical drying agents, since some of those can be toxic. I imagine any brand of mineral oils marketing itself as a a treatment for butcher's blocks should be fine. I haven't taken my harps apart yet to use it, but I've got a bottle from a company called Catskill (kill is the Dutch word for creek, it's not a dire warning about crazy felines). 100% Pure Mineral oil with a trace of vitamin E.
www.catskillcraftsmen.com
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Nate
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chromaticblues
970 posts
Aug 20, 2011
12:48 PM
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Watco Butcher Block oil and finnish is not mineral oil. There maybe different types of Butcher Block from different manufactures. Atleast thats what it sounds like, but mineral oil is as it sounds. OIL! It will not seal a comb just make it resistant to moisture. The Watco Butcher Block will seal it. It may have mineral oil in it also because its not like a normal wood finnish. You have to do multiple coats for it to work well.
I buy food grade mineral oil. Better safe than dead!
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florida-trader
52 posts
Aug 20, 2011
2:43 PM
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If you have not already pulled the trigger on mineral oil may I suggest shellac? Shellac is an all natural resin that is food safe. In fact, the FDA has approved shellac for use in capsules (pills). Nobody has stated it quite this way, but sealing a comb is not about what you put ON the wood - it is about what you put IN the wood. We all know that wood absorbs moisture and swells as a result. When you soak wood in shellac, the shellac is absorbed into the pore of the wood. When you take it out to dry, the alcohol - which is the solvent - evaporates and leaves the shellac behind. It essentially petrifies the wood. After you let it dry, you can sand it smooth and you will have a comb that is impervious to moisture. And by the way, when I say soak the comb I mean for several hours at least.
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Matzen
220 posts
Aug 20, 2011
2:49 PM
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I've heard of people using Zinsser Bullseye?
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Seven.Oh.Three.
158 posts
Aug 20, 2011
4:04 PM
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I guess some of it comes down to how you want to skin your cat. If I remember correctly you have over a hundred combs your sealing. Maybe try a dozen one way and a dozen another and compare.
7.o.3.
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zipperhead16
37 posts
Aug 20, 2011
4:31 PM
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I just did a MB with shellac and it works great. I just do the inside of the tines and face. Sand inside and round edges if tines, 4 or 5 thin coats of shellac then flat sand. Any shellac that drips can be sanded off the reed side of the comb.
That makes the holes moisture proof and leaves it naked next to the reed plates, sort of like the "new" MB's. Don't know if it makes a difference over soaking in BB oil but I had time to kill .
BTW, the comb I got from chromatic was soaked in oil and has never had an issue. YMMV
Last Edited by on Aug 20, 2011 4:35 PM
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nacoran
4484 posts
Aug 20, 2011
4:32 PM
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One of the early pioneers in oil byproducts, I forget his name, (looked it up, Chesebrough), discovered Vasaline, or rather, commercialized it. It was gumming up the works in their oil wells, but, when they got burns, they'd put it on them. I vaguely recall something about him eating a spoonful a day and living into his nineties. (It's a Pennsylvania story, so I probably first heard it in 1st or 2nd grade when I lived there.) Although eating Vasaline probably isn't a good idea, it, like several other petrochemicals, is pretty harmless, and even medicinal in some cases. Same with mineral oil. Are there modern chemicals out there that are bad for you? Yes, of course. Are some of them man-made? Sure. (Actually, more accurately I think we refine petrochemicals.) Shellac has been used around people for ages. I'd be more more concerned with what is in any herbal supplements that I'm taking than incidental contact with shellac or mineral oil.
http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=26893
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Nate
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zipperhead16
38 posts
Aug 20, 2011
4:38 PM
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"Although eating Vasaline probably isn't a good idea, it, like several other petrochemicals, is pretty harmless, and even medicinal in some cases"
Think I'll stick to coffee in the morning.
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nacoran
4485 posts
Aug 20, 2011
5:06 PM
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One or two lumps of Vasaline?
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Nate
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Littoral
342 posts
Aug 20, 2011
5:26 PM
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Seven.Oh.Three: " If I remember correctly you have over a hundred combs your sealing. Maybe try a dozen one way and a dozen another and compare."
True, and the scientist in me says to set up a design to find out something useful for everyone. It doesn't sound like much fun though. The harp player in me just wants to upgrade leaky harps.
I'll start with 5, mineral oil, and see what I get.
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Seven.Oh.Three.
159 posts
Aug 20, 2011
5:57 PM
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Littoral- you can send a bunch to me and I'll seal 'em for a spare harp or two.......
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arzajac
608 posts
Aug 20, 2011
6:51 PM
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"The harp player in me just wants to upgrade leaky harps."
Sealing a comb does nothing to reduce air leaks. Sealing in of itself will probably make the problem worse. sanding will deal with the problem as far as the comb is concerned. You may want to sand the draw reed plate surface that's in contact with the comb as well.
You probably only need to seal a comb that swells.
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