harmonicanick
1164 posts
Apr 28, 2011
10:56 AM
|
Anyone tried the Cherry wood combs or Acrylic comb replacements currently being sold on E bay by a guy in Florida? Are they any good?
|
HarpNinja
1392 posts
Apr 28, 2011
11:08 AM
|
What is the user name? If it is who I think it is, they are awesome.
----------
Mike
Quicksilver Custom Harmonicas
|
EddieT
61 posts
Apr 28, 2011
11:43 AM
|
You can also try these guys http://www.harpcase.com/id27.html I just got a custom harp from Matthew Smart and it's incredible.
----------
-Edward Tomaine
YouTube
![]() 
|
toddlgreene
2939 posts
Apr 28, 2011
11:52 AM
|
I believe that my GM from HarveyHarp has a wood comb that came from the same dude in Florida who seels them on EBay. If so, it's very nice.
----------
Todd
|
HarpNinja
1393 posts
Apr 28, 2011
12:00 PM
|
I've worked with just about every dymonwood and hardwood comb from Matt and would endorse those as well. Typically, that is what I use on my less expensive MB models. I like that the MB combs comb undrilled.
His non-Hohner models are great too.
But the eBay combs for GM's are a fantastic deal. My gigging Eb has a clear acrylic.
Coolest comb I own, though is a pink ivory Sjoeberg GM comb. The are not available to the public, but I'll eventually be rocking them on all my gigging GM's.
----------
Mike
Quicksilver Custom Harmonicas
Last Edited by on Apr 28, 2011 12:01 PM
|
tmf714
616 posts
Apr 28, 2011
12:01 PM
|
Is it the same guy with the acrylic combs? I really would like to try the acrylic.
|
HarpNinja
1394 posts
Apr 28, 2011
12:04 PM
|
I have permission to share this...
Tom Halchak is the one selling the eBay combs. You can reach him at:
thalchak AT tampabay.rr DOT com
If you email him, please tell him I say hi. If you hound him enough, he might be able to come up with some options not listed on eBay. He is a super cool dude and I hope he sells a million combs.
----------
Mike
Quicksilver Custom Harmonicas
|
ridge
251 posts
Apr 28, 2011
12:19 PM
|
@harmonicanick - There are a few threads that popped up about this recently... I bought 5 wood combs after Mike's initial post advertising Tom's combs.
He accidentally sent me acrylic ones first, which were nice, but I REALLY wanted wood. I shipped them back, he refunded me the shipping charges and sent me my cherry and maple combs. I have to say, as a first time after-market comb purchase, they make a difference.
He uses butcher block oil, but I don't smell or taste anything weird about the combs... and I don't think you can beat the price. I want to get SP20 combs from him as well, but haven't seen them offered yet.
|
Rick Shanks
37 posts
Apr 28, 2011
3:00 PM
|
I have a GM comb from Tom in clear acrylic and it is perfect ! He is great to deal with too :)
----------
KiwiRick
|
ElkRiverHarmonicas
666 posts
Apr 28, 2011
8:30 PM
|
145nE,
I've used Butcher's Block for quite some time. You need to let the combs air out before you put the harmonica together. The longer they air out, the less smell there is. Once you put the harp together, it takes FOREVER for the smell to go away, so resist the urge to assemble early. Also, you don't have to slather the stuff on there, you can get it on so thick, it would take forever to dry up. There is no reason to put on anymore than the wood will naturally soak up. lacquer is not a subsitute for a fine-grit polishing cloth.
----------
David
Elk River Harmonicas
Elk River Harmonicas on Facebook
"It's difficult to think anything but pleasant thoughts while eating a homegrown tomato." - Lewis Grizzard
"Also, drinking homemade beer." - David Payne
Last Edited by on Apr 28, 2011 8:32 PM
|
chromaticblues
801 posts
Apr 29, 2011
5:06 AM
|
@ harmonicanick I have cherry and mahogany Golden Melody and SP 20 combs for $20 each.
@145ne Take it apart and let it sit for a month out of the case. That should do it. Dave is absolutly right. I believe nothing works better than Butchers block. You just have to give it time to air out. That is a drawback but the finnish is perfect!
I have 2 Hohner 260 chrom combs drying now. They have been there for three weeks and they aren't ready yet!
They are almost done. Like ridge said if you wait long enough the stink will go away.
|
Oso
26 posts
Apr 29, 2011
6:14 AM
|
I have been making combs for some time now. I just finished some brass combs for my MB's. I am going to spend more time on custom woods. I currently have woods coming from Africa, Australia and of course the US. I am hoping to offer highend woods at a decent price.
|
chromaticblues
802 posts
Apr 29, 2011
6:22 AM
|
@ Oso I like Maple and cherry wood combs. Have you experimented with either of those woods? And if so how much do you think you sell them for. I'm asking as a buyer not a compeditor! Maple combs for MB's and SP 20's are my favorite, but cherry works very well also.
|
145nE
22 posts
Apr 29, 2011
6:59 AM
|
Thanks guys, I will try that. This is the first time I have sealed a comb and was over anxious to see how it would play. And OBTW, that old sucker plays great now. I just need to take it back apart and let it air out. I saw someone else using Bulls Eye Shellac. Any comment on that stuff? It says that it is non-toxic and hypoallergenic.
|
harmonicanick
1165 posts
Apr 29, 2011
3:05 PM
|
I have bought 4 acrylics from the man in Florida at £7 English pounds each + shipping
Different colours so I won't mess up on stage with the keys (getting on and can't see too well)
thanks for the input guys!!
@chromatic
No thanks at the moment:)
Last Edited by on Apr 29, 2011 3:07 PM
|
Oso
27 posts
Apr 29, 2011
3:57 PM
|
@chromaticblues I can make combs out of what ever you desire. I have made some combs out of acrylic, bamboo, mohogany, aluminum, brass and a few other odds and ends. I have not made any for SP 20's but cant be too difficult. I would give you a break on pricing to get some of my combs out and about!!
Hit me up and we could discuss what you want and what kind of prices your talking about. You were first to ask so you will have what you need!!
Let me know and I will get some wood together and make some for ya!!
My goal is to be different. With flavor!!
Last Edited by on Apr 29, 2011 4:01 PM
|
chromaticblues
805 posts
Apr 29, 2011
4:25 PM
|
@ Oso Please E mail me at: sbaker60@cox.net
|
Oso
28 posts
Apr 29, 2011
4:53 PM
|
EM sent
Thanks
|
ElkRiverHarmonicas
667 posts
Apr 29, 2011
5:44 PM
|
Ok, the problem is the wood is too porous, like a sponge. there is something you could maybe do with a fresh comb that might work. It's called burnishing.
If you ever read "The Natural" there is a description of it in there, Roy Hobbs burnished his magical baseball bat. I think he called it "boning," but I can't type that without chuckling, so I'll call it burnishing. Anyway, it's why Roy's bat never showed any marks from baseballs.
It's basically compressing the wood fibers and closing the pores. Roy does it by pushing hard on the wood with something. Obviously, you're not going to be able to push down on the comb, or you'll break the teeth.
I'm talking about doing the tip of the comb teeth here. It's not necessary to seal the rest of it.
You can burnish with polishing cloths. DOn't sand it down or you'll have the comb teeth down in the reedplates. Just round the corners, ok...
Sand it smooth with 220 grit sandpaper. then go to a 500, 1,000 and maybe even 1,200 grit polishing cloth. At this point, you can take a paper towel with a little butcher's block oil and wipe it across the top of the comb teeth. Let it dry, do it again until the surface starts getting glossy.
You're not pushing down, you're just sanding... it'll work.
----------
David
Elk River Harmonicas
Elk River Harmonicas on Facebook
"It's difficult to think anything but pleasant thoughts while eating a homegrown tomato." - Lewis Grizzard
"Also, drinking homemade beer." - David Payne
Last Edited by on Apr 29, 2011 5:45 PM
|
chromaticblues
808 posts
Apr 30, 2011
4:35 AM
|
I found that if you take a wooden comb out of a harp and let it sit overnight in a average humidity environment (you have to be careful doing this don't put in a window in the sun or near a heat sorce bacause it could warp). Then soak it in mineral oil for a few days then do the Butch Block finnish. It doesn't take as much into the wood and the wood will never dry out. The smell goes away faster because not as much Butcher Block was used.
|
Seven.Oh.Three.
54 posts
Apr 30, 2011
5:50 AM
|
Please apply a rather large grain of salt here. I'm not claiming to even know what I'm doing, let alone think it's the best way of sealing a comb.
I started sealing my MB combs a few weeks ago. The way I do it is very straight forward. I make grid marks on the comb with a pencil and flat sand it starting with 400 grit and working up to 800 grit. Then use a finger nail file to round the tines and soak the comb three times for 20 min in butchers block oil. Letting it air dry for 6-8 hrs between soaks. After the last soak I let it dry for two days.
I forget which brand oil I use. But it's (if I remember correctly) 100% butchers block oil with out any additives, especially no drying agent. The oil itself has no smell, at all. And zero taste.
Never had a comb swell after treating them this way. And figured, if I'm messing them up, it would be a good excuse to buy fancy replacement combs from a customizer.
7.0.3.
|
chromaticblues
809 posts
Apr 30, 2011
7:43 AM
|
I hate salt!
I haven't been able to find the Butchers Block without the drying agent.
Most of the harps I make and all but one of my personnal harps I built only have Mineral oil in them, but I do like the finnish of Butchers Block. I've got to look for that again!
|
chromaticblues
811 posts
Apr 30, 2011
6:38 PM
|
@ Seven Thats not the same stuff. Thats mineral oil! You right it does work well, but it does not seal the wood. The wood absorbs the oil so it then can't absorb moisture from you. Two totally different things. As I said I like useing mineral oil. Some people believe comb material doesn't make a difference in tone, but I can hear the difference between sealed harps and harps with minereal oil.
Yeah I have a gallon of it down stairs.
Oh the salt doesn't to burn as bad now by the way! HaHa
|
Seven.Oh.Three.
56 posts
Apr 30, 2011
6:50 PM
|
@cromatic after reading your posts above, do you use mineral oil and THEN use butchers block as a 'final touch'? If so what butchers block are you using?
Oh, and sorry to hijack this thread......
|
ElkRiverHarmonicas
668 posts
Apr 30, 2011
8:45 PM
|
Chromatic Blues... Butcher's Block without drying agents (I like drying agents) is... drum roll.... mineral oil.
----------
David
Elk River Harmonicas
Elk River Harmonicas on Facebook
"It's difficult to think anything but pleasant thoughts while eating a homegrown tomato." - Lewis Grizzard
"Also, drinking homemade beer." - David Payne
|
nacoran
4096 posts
Apr 30, 2011
10:43 PM
|
I buy a brand named Catskill Original Butcher Block Oil from Catskill Craftsmen Inc. The bottle says it's all natural and it makes me feel warm and fuzzy to buy semi-locally.
----------
Nate
Facebook
Thread Organizer (A list of all sorts of useful threads)
|
chromaticblues
814 posts
May 01, 2011
3:16 PM
|
@ Dave No way. Butchers Block does absorb into the wood yes, but if you put enough coats on it the finnish builds up like a clear wood finnish. You can dip a comb in mineral oil untill your head falls off and it will NOT build up. Because it is not the same thing!
@ Seven The kind that have is Watco (thats the name of the company) Buthers Block oil & finnish.
As I said it works very well if you want the wood to feel like plastic and be perfectly smooth. It takes about three coats for that type of finnish.
|
