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Dirty-South Blues Harp forum: wail on! >
'Olden' Melodys
'Olden' Melodys
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Stevelegh
6 posts
Dec 27, 2010
2:04 AM
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Hi Everyone,
I'm going through my old harps to find a good working set. I used to play Lee Oskars, but with all the new fangled overblow stuff, I've got to change these up or do some major work on them.
I've got a couple of Golden Melodys which about 20 years old, which are nailed together. Do they still make these like this, or are they now screwed? I'll be getting some screws for the 3 that I've got and bringing them up to scratch. Does anyone know what size bolts and even better, where to get them? I'm UK based.
I'm thinking getting Suzuki Harpmasters to replace the LO's, but if they've improved the Golden Melodys, I'd rather take this route.
Any advice would be appreciated..
Cheers
Steve
Last Edited by on Dec 27, 2010 2:24 AM
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Greyowlphotoart
274 posts
Dec 27, 2010
2:39 AM
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Hi Steve, can't help you with the 1st part but I have Harpmasters and GM's and I like both of them a lot. You may want to do a little work on them, mainly gapping at the outset to suit your playing style. But I have found them both to be pretty good 'Out of the box.' They both have quite a different and distinctive sound that I very much like.
Cheers
Kieron
'Woke up this morning.....So far so good"
Last Edited by on Dec 27, 2010 2:40 AM
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Stevelegh
7 posts
Dec 27, 2010
3:03 AM
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Thanks Greyowl,
As you've got GM's (I'm assuming they're newer than mine), are they still nailed together?
It seems strange that they haven't done a major upgrade on these, especially seeing so many harp players love them after they've done some work on them.
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ridge
140 posts
Dec 27, 2010
5:30 AM
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Stevelegh,
GMs are now made with screws. I don't know what year they stopped using nails, but depending on where you shop, and how quick they sell GMs, there is a chance you could wind up with a nailed one...
I have several of these and attempted to convert them, they are REALLY awful. Even if you get the screws in, the reed work was just plain bad. I'm talking about reeds that aren't riveted at the center of the slot kind of bad.
I still think the GM is a great harp. I only wish they'd change the comb so it doesn't chip so easily. If/when you go to buy more, just open the box and look in the back to check if it's nails or screws. If it's nails say, "No thank you"!
Last Edited by on Dec 27, 2010 5:31 AM
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harpwrench
394 posts
Dec 27, 2010
6:48 AM
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They haven't nailed GMs for over ten years. If you have any with a date code stamped into the reed plates, they were made after the factory made improvements and are usually worth the time converting to screws. No date- don't waste your time. FYI SP20s never were dated, so you can't go by that.
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HarpNinja
900 posts
Dec 27, 2010
8:19 AM
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All the GM's in blister packs will have screws, FWIW. I have had about 10 or so ordered in the last year. They all have been solid out of the box harps. Most will overblow on 4, 5, and 6 from the start. In general, the reeds haven't been a mess or anything.
The combs are the weak point, IMO, but the GM remains my favorite harp even though I've picked up a ton of Marine Bands over the last couple of years and tried to be a convert, lol.
If the stock combs don't do it for you, there are a number of comb builders making great products from around $30 on up. So for $70 or so, you can have an awesome harp - assuming you can gap to taste.
Honestly, I gig with the stock combs frequently...all my back up harps are GM's with stock parts. All my harps are "customs", and my main set is GM's mixed with several Marine Bands and a couple of SP 20's. The MB's and SP20's all have dymonwood combs.
Finally remembered my password so I can post from my phone!
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Mike
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Stevelegh
10 posts
Dec 27, 2010
8:56 AM
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Thanks for the replies.
I've had a look at the GMs and they aren't dated and yes Ridge, the rivets are as crooked as Popeye's hat.
I've done some gapping on the C and F harps and I've got them to overblow on 4, 5 and 6, but they're in no way clean and will need some waxing to get rid of the squeaks, but I don't want to take them off the comb in case I lose airtightness, but just 1/2 hour on each harp has made them play infinitely better than most OTB harps.
I hear what your saying Joe, but I'm going to get some bolts and a mini drill press and try and make these work better. Best case: I've got some great playing harps, or good second instruments. Worst case, I've had a good learning curve and got lots of spare parts.
I feel somewhat encouraged. As long as I feel the harp is actually workable, then I feel I can spend the time and learn.
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Stevelegh
11 posts
Dec 27, 2010
9:30 AM
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Hey Mike,
Sorry, missed your message. I would've got some more GM's on your say so, but opted for two Harpmasters and a Manji on good recommendation.
I had a good experience setting up a Delta Frost, so being in the UK, opted for the Harpmaster. You recommended the Manji on FaceBook.
I'm looking forward to that one...
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