sonvolt13
57 posts
Nov 26, 2010
6:39 AM
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After 10 years of using special 20's pretty much exclusively, I bought a Manji in Bb (my favorite key). There's many things I like about this harp but I am finding the 3draw to be pretty unresponsive. I tried some gapping which did not help. anybody have any suggestions for making the 3 draw more responsive? Thanks.
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GamblersHand
234 posts
Nov 26, 2010
6:43 AM
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+1
I've had the same problem with a D harp - my first Manji. Makes it no fun at all for playing cross harp blues
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Gaukur
16 posts
Nov 26, 2010
6:50 AM
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I haven't tried a Manji. But this happens a lot with Marine Bands. Gapping didn't help. I found the only thing that fixed was embossing.
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harpwrench
369 posts
Nov 26, 2010
6:59 AM
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View my 3 "simple gapping" videos on youtube (user choppajoe). If you still can't get it and would like me to do it for you, send the harp and $15 to
Joe Spiers
PO Box 192
Maysville, MO 64469
I will gap it correctly and have it back in the mail within a day or two. If you would like it strobe tuned so the chords are nice like the SP20's, enclose an additional $10.
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sonvolt13
58 posts
Nov 26, 2010
11:29 AM
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Thanks for the responses fellas. Joe I'll take a look at your vids.
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arzajac
395 posts
Nov 26, 2010
1:11 PM
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Wow!
Joe, do you offer that service for other harps? Do they need to be brand new?
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HarpNinja
793 posts
Nov 26, 2010
1:19 PM
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All harps can use some gapping OOTB, but in general, I have really taken a liking to the Manji. This is double true if you don't overblow.
Remember, though, that it is pretty much an ET tuning where as the MB, Sp20, amongst others are Just.
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Mike
VHT Special 6 Amp for Harp Blog
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harpwrench
371 posts
Nov 26, 2010
2:46 PM
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I don't have time for much additional work Arzajac, but if forum members have simple issues like this on any decent new OTTB harp and I can help out, I'd be glad to.
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chromaticblues
327 posts
Nov 26, 2010
3:25 PM
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@sonvolt13
I emboss all the slots, set all the reeds, sand the comb flat and have a sealing trick that makes it perfectly air tight for $35.
HooDoo Harps
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sonvolt13
59 posts
Nov 27, 2010
5:37 AM
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Chromatic,
Thanks for the info. I actually sent you an e-mail about working on some sp20s. On another note, I just tried a crossover and it is the most responsive harp I've ever tried. The only thing I don't like is the reedplates protruding beyond the comb.
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HarpNinja
796 posts
Nov 27, 2010
6:36 AM
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You can sand that down if it is an issue.
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Mike
VHT Special 6 Amp for Harp Blog
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bazzzzou
28 posts
Nov 27, 2010
8:52 AM
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I have 2 manjis, one in key of c an another in key of A and both are realy good harps, and they are alot more responsive than alot of haprs
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chromaticblues
334 posts
Nov 27, 2010
4:09 PM
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@sonvolt That isn't very hard to fix! I take care of that on all the Crossovers I work on. Same price as the Manji work. The Crossover and Manji are the two best harps. I give the nod to the crossover.
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groyster1
568 posts
Nov 27, 2010
4:40 PM
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@chromatic
but are the crossovers worth the extra 20.00$$$?
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chromaticblues
337 posts
Nov 27, 2010
6:34 PM
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I can't say if it is for you or not! You know what I mean. I think Manji's are the second best harp made, but I can't play them! I just don't like them. I can make them really responsive and the top end is great the overblows are great, but the three draw bend is too different for me. The tone is different also. That may be a good thing for some people. Just not me. I'll say this and I haven't heard anyone point this out, but I think it is probably the best harp to customize for people that play jazz and overblowers. I don't recomend it for blues though. Thats just my 2 cents based on the dozen harps of each that I've modified.
So if you play blue I'd say yes.
If you don't I'd say no.
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sonvolt13
60 posts
Nov 28, 2010
7:54 AM
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Harpninja,
Do you use sand paper, a file, or both? What method do you use to make sure all the little shavings are out of the harp (would soaking a sealed bamboo comb in 91% alcohol for 10 minutes be a safe way to make sure there's no shavings in there)?
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chromaticblues
343 posts
Nov 28, 2010
9:47 AM
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I would soak it. Use a fine metal file. File the mouthpiece down untill just you start touching the wood. Then take it apart and sand the individual reedplates with 400 grit. sand it at different angles trying to get it smooth and almost rouned. Make sure all the sharp edges are gone! With the harp apart you can wipe off the comb and just blow it off. Before you put the reedplates on wash them off and you should be all set.
The only thing you have to be careful with is the wood. If you don't want to refinnish the it then don't let the file make contact. I refinnish it so I go all the way down to the wood all the way across before I stop. One advantage with the way I do it is you can get a little more of the harp in your mouth when finnished. The coverplates go to the end of the reedplates. Much smoother feel in your mouth!
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HarpNinja
802 posts
Nov 28, 2010
4:16 PM
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I don't soak them. I brush them off with a toothbrush, wash them under water, use a small dab of toothpaste, brush them again and dry them.
I use sanding blocks of different values (I couldn't even tell you what they are anymore...I bought the smoothest, roughest, and one in the middle). I finish with a steal wool kinda thing for metals like brass. Again, picked it up at Menard's, which is like a Home Depot.
Personally, I don't like my harps touching, containing, or using any additives that aren't consumable - unless I am refurbishing a used harp (then I use alcohol).
I've given up on nail polish, etc. I only use files for tuning and maybe spot sanding part of a comb if other sanders aren't handy.
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Mike
VHT Special 6 Amp for Harp Blog
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zipperhead16
6 posts
Nov 28, 2010
6:26 PM
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Chromatic and Ninja sound like the masters to me but my .02, don't use steel wool of any type. Steel + saliva = rust.I've done enough wood refinishing from someone else refinishing with steel wool. Have to go over the wood with sandpaper and a magnet to get it all off. Whats the sense of sanding twice?
On the brass it's ok
Last Edited by on Nov 28, 2010 6:28 PM
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HarpNinja
804 posts
Nov 28, 2010
6:37 PM
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I was talking the brass...if I had to do something on a cover plate, I suppose I'd use the grinder on a Dremel to start it.
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Mike
VHT Special 6 Amp for Harp Blog
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chromaticblues
347 posts
Nov 28, 2010
6:52 PM
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I use a fine file then 400 grit. These are proven methods. I work on peoples harps and they don't even know I did anything to the mouthpiece! I haven't had one person comment about the mouthpiece.
You know no news is good news.
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