I just received a damaged 260 "G" from auction on eBay. The reeds and plates look good, as well as the mouthpiece and slider (in the dishwasher now!), but the comb is cracked all the way through to the front.
It looks like that comb is totaled. How do you remove the reed plates, in case it is up to me to do a fix?
Does anyone know where I can find a new comb, or get this one repaired, for a reasonable price?
Last Edited by on Jul 14, 2010 2:31 PM
99.9 percent of all chromatics you will buy on Ebay have a cracked comb. Sometimes there are two or three cracks like that. The secret is DO NOT TAKE THE REEDPLATES OFF! Make the repair with the harmonica together. I do this, making the initial repair with the reedplates on. Then, after that has all dried, I'll put the mouthpiece back on, take the reedplates off and touch up the repair. Remember, the reedplates are the only thing holding this harmonica together.
---------- www.harrisonharmonicas.com
Last Edited by on Jul 14, 2010 6:42 PM
Dave -- Terrific! Your videos make it seem possible to fix! I also sent a help request to Hohner, so I'll see what they say. I also noticed in the same areas of these cracks that the wood has pulled away from the reed plates leaving a horizontal gap on top and bottom. This seems more problematic than the simple wood-to-wood fix, since it is wood to metal. I don't want to push glue into the crack as it will bind the two surfaces. What do you recommend as a wood sealer? Could something like picture varnish work (for oil paintings)? I've had better luck on chromatics so far. I've bought three (two 260s and one 280), and this is the only cracked one. I have three more 270s coming, so I'll see how the average holds up. :) Thanks for the help.
Gap between the reedplate and the comb? don't push glue in that gap. It's an artificial gap, if you do that, you lose the comb's flatness.
What you wanna do is let the reedplates pull the comb back in. First fix the comb crack as well as you can, making sure you've got wood splinters going top to bottom, because now, you're not going to take the reedplates off. The nails need to be tighter. Try the toothpick trick as seen in the video below. Do this on one nail at a time. Then use a small hammer and a punch or something to drive the nails in tight. Your nails are loose. Start in the middle of the reedplate, then work your way to the outside. Think about how you'd put a head on an automobile engine. You torque those nails in a similar pattern (to head bolts) and for the same reason.
My three 270s came today, and I did okay on the deal. All have the green plastic hard case with red velveteen lining. The "F is almost brand new -- perfect wood and action. The "C" has had the most use and has a couple cracks on the back -- but is air tight, so they are just superficial for now. The "D" is in between the others in quality and use -- it's had some use and has a minor crack in the wood finish, but is air tight and smooth slider. The C and D need to have the slide cleaned. $108 for all three. I need to learn to play chromatic, and it is a great way to get "low" versions of the diatonics. I have a low D and F, so these should go well with the collection. I've only had one bad one needing repair from six I've bought on eBay. So my percentage is pretty good as of now.
Last Edited by on Jul 16, 2010 1:41 PM
Would anybody have asuggestion how to repair the comb from the part where the spring is? I have many old chromatics which all have broken slot behind the spring - I guess it is because the spring keeps hitting that spot of the comb and eventually it breaks. It doesn't affect the air tightness or anything about the tone but if the hole is big enough it lets the mouthpiece valve to move too much and then there will be some leakage of air to the wrong side..
So if you have any suggestions on how to repair that and make it more firm so that the spring doesn't break it I would really appreciate that...
Wood. Glue it on, you can strengthen it by drilling a couple of holes and putting wood pins in. If your bumper tubes are good, you're slide can't move too much.
---------- www.harrisonharmonicas.com
"There are only two things money can't buy - true love and homegrown tomatoes." - Lewis Grizzard
Dave -- I contacted Hohner, and they have the combs available for sale, $26 + $9 shipping. I figure that is the last resort, and a final back-up plan.
Here's my intermediate stage of repair. I've put in the initial wood/glue bracing you suggested. I used Pro Bond exterior glue that is water resistent. As you can see, I used a clamp to compress the comb. Here's why: as I examined it, I found the short broken off section actually sticking out from the reed plates. This made sense that the wood had separated that direction. So I added the wood/glue "spacers" and added slight compression.
You can see that I've used some pieces of soft wood under the clamps so that I only compress the comb, NOT the reed plates. ;) In fact, this is probably putting the reed plates closer to their original position with the nails, relieving some of the spreading of the comb.
I'll take it apart soon and see if I can make it better supported and more air tight before sanding and varnishing/sealing. Your videos are awesome! Thanks so much. :)
Last Edited by on Jul 19, 2010 3:40 PM
Good job! Nice. You don't have to take it apart, especially since you used a water resistant glue. I would just go ahead and play it. Look at the wood. It's warped. If you take it apart, you might have a hard time getting it back. Or not. Who knows. It should be fine to play right now.
---------- www.harrisonharmonicas.com
"There are only two things money can't buy - true love and homegrown tomatoes." - Lewis Grizzard
Last Edited by on Jul 19, 2010 3:51 PM
Dave -- I couldn't resist -- I had to get down to the wood! :)
I'm glad I did -- I can see how the crack happened.
The largest crack (actually complete separation) was caused by bonding failure between two pieces of wood that have been glued together before milling the comb. I didn't know these combs are composite "rails" of wood, with breaks in the structure. Live and learn. The smaller cracks were cased from the small nails holding the combs down.
I used your gentle knife blade prying technique to lift the reed plates, then pull out the nails with an alligator clip (they were actually quite well attached). I was surprised to find they were quite badly curved. I used my fingers to get them straighter, but not perfect.
All sides were sanded with 220, then 400. I added a tiny bit of glue into the nail holes to help them hold the nails when I re-insert them.
You can see from the photos how I applied the wood slivers (actually taken from some corner wedges for artist canvases).
I applied a first layer of iron oxide oil paint, which I'll smooth and later add varnish. The repaired separation and filled cracks are visible.
The beat goes on. . .
Last Edited by on Jul 20, 2010 1:51 PM
I have a 64 with the same issue. However, the one you have seems to be bare wood. Mine looks to have some sort of vaneer along the sides and back. Can this repair be done without removing that? ---------- Bend it like Ricci - Me
I got a Super Chromonica in Bb off ebay in brand new condition for £40. Goes to show that if your patient enough on ebay, a bargain will come along. This item lasted for six days, I was the only bidder. Made me wonder if there was something wrong with it, but it plays well. ---------- ------------- myspace.com/mightynightjars
thenightjarsblues@gmail.com
Last Edited by harpburn on Jul 01, 2013 6:39 AM
I had better luck with winning things when I was up later that most sane humans and an item was ending soon. Most of my best finds were won at 3-5 am. Did the one you repaired have a vaneer on the comb? ---------- Bend it like Ricci - Me
