SuperBee
6388 posts
Dec 19, 2019
1:54 AM
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I’m installing brand new wooden comb in a 270. I’m nailing it. I know how I’m going about it but I expect there is a better way.
I’ve installed the 1st reedplate. The second is a bit trickier because now I have not got a flat side for the harp to lay upon. I’m using a slotted plate to accommodate the rivet heads.
Driving the brads in straight is also a challenge but I’m coping. If I did this often I’d come up with a better solution.
These guys, they want them nailed together. Personally I installed power combs in my own 270s.
My prewar has come up really nice actually. I’ve had to put the original slide back in it temporarily because I needed a good slide for a customer’s harp, but I have a replacement now. Not that I use the slide much anyway with the fairly basic ‘D minor’ chromatic work I currently do.
I’m procrastinating though. I had better get back to it. Just interested in any tips folks might have for working on these with nails. I don’t need advice to ditch the nails and replace with bolts, but if you do want to tell me about that, I’m interested in metric sizes.
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gmacleod15
325 posts
Dec 19, 2019
4:41 AM
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To help with the nails try pre-drilling. Ideally you want a drill bit a touch smaller than the brads. You can also use a small brad as a drill bit. Also try holding the brad with needle nose pliers.
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MBH member since 2009-03-24
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SuperBee
6389 posts
Dec 19, 2019
5:16 AM
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Thanks Graham. Yes, needle nose pliers is the way I’ve done it. Just realized they haven’t drilled for the spring post, so I’ll have to go down to the machine to fix that. Too late for that trip tonight. So I’ll pack it in for the evening.
I’ve sanded the body level with the reedplates, cleaned the windsavers and replaced a couple which were beyond cleaning. Thing appears little-used, but body was split through the chamber right through the holes where the cover supports plug in on the low end. And somehow the windsaver on the outside of Sharp channel 8 was glued together with cola (I’m guessing...it’s sticky and brown. Could be coffee or mescaline. I didn’t taste it)
When I get this done I’ll set about restoring another pre war I was given.
My other prewar had been played enough that the plate on the mouthpiece was worn through to the brass. I replaced the mouthpiece with a gold version. It made a huge difference. Brass mouthpiece just doesn’t agree with me, I don’t like brass combs on diatonic either. Anyway, even though it’s obviously had a lot of use it still plays very well now I’ve installed a power comb and replaced the mouthpiece, along with new windsavers. If this other one comes up as nicely I’ll be very pleased. My modern 270 is not nearly so nice.
I got a new body for my ‘standard tuned’ prewar (obviously) 260, too.
That’s gonna be a real beauty. That was a gift from friends in AL, belonged to a military colonel down there.
I have another prewar 280 on the way also. Last one was pretty good but broken comb
I’ll build a jig clamp to mend the body3
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A-Static Cal
3 posts
Dec 19, 2019
6:34 AM
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Cola, coffee, or mescaline? C'mon, try it out, what's the worst that could happen? Just do it out on a sunny day and make some snacks first.
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dchurch
329 posts
Dec 19, 2019
8:19 AM
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Yes to the pilot hole and needle nose pliers work fine. Or, a small pair of side cutters give a little better leverage and grip. They have a finer tip set at a helpful angle. I press nails in using the side cutters then tap them home using a small hammer and nail set.
I like using a small farrier type driving hammer for this work. A tack hammer feels too light, a finish hammer too big.
Another method for starting a tiny brad is to poke it through a piece of paper and use that as a holder while tapping. I've also used hemostats. For harmonica work I prefer using the same side cutters that I use for pulling nails. Don't squeeze too hard.
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Harmonica Mutes & Accessories
www.dBombMute.com
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Tuckster
1712 posts
Dec 19, 2019
9:00 AM
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You could try a pin vice to hold the brads. That would at least get them started in straight.
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SuperBee
6391 posts
Dec 19, 2019
11:39 PM
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Thanks, folks. Some good ideas in there.
I’m not sure I can fit a drill narrow enough in my chuck to pre drill these holes. But I’m sure I could find something to do the job if I threw some money at it.
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gmacleod15
326 posts
Dec 20, 2019
5:06 AM
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If you have a Dremel or similar tool they have small chucks and bits.
Glenn
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MBH member since 2009-03-24
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dougharps
2050 posts
Dec 20, 2019
7:29 AM
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If I were to go to the trouble to install a new 270 comb I would certainly want to convert to screws or bolts and nuts instead of using nails. That would make disassembly and reassembly much easier when windsaver issues recurred.
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Doug S.
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SuperBee
6393 posts
Dec 20, 2019
9:04 AM
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Yes. As I said.
This is the second client I’ve had who specifically wants it nailed.
My personal restorations are bolted together.
Although, when it comes to marine band restoration I sometimes choose to nail those so I guess I might have some inkling of why they are resistant to the convenience of threads. Just a chromatic is a whole other bundle of maintenance compared to a unvalved harp
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dchurch
332 posts
Dec 20, 2019
8:39 PM
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SB, For the chuck fit/tiny bits problem "bits for circuit boards" is a good search. They have a 1/8" shaft reduced to .05mm or whatever. They are also conveniently labeled. I dont know where to get them on your side of the pond but they are often less than $1 each here.
For example:
https://www.amazon.com/XLX-Circuit-Carbide-Tungsten-Jobber/dp/B01LWP84P7
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Harmonica Mutes & Accessories
www.dBombMute.com
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SuperBee
6402 posts
Dec 25, 2019
1:27 AM
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Good stuff, thanks!
I’ve finished the job, owner is happy with it.
My resolution for next year is to pack up my work benches. So I won’t invest in more harp repair tools for a while.
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