Philosofy
592 posts
Aug 14, 2014
8:24 AM
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I only got to speak briefly with PT Gazelle about half valving, and it looks pretty interesting. Outside of eliminating over bends, is there any downside to it?
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chromaticblues
1595 posts
Aug 14, 2014
8:37 AM
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Yes! and possibly no!
I believe it's one of those things that you would have to do with complete conviction and stop playing normal harps. After a while your playing style will adapt to the harps your using.
I didn't like it because I could hear the valves and it actually slowed down my high playing. I really liked the idea of bending the 7 and 8 draw, but you don't get something for nothing very often and half valving very much so is one of those things.
If your interested in it just try it on one harp and only play that harp for a week and go from there?
Or something like that.
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Philosofy
593 posts
Aug 14, 2014
8:54 AM
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I think it might have a lot to do with the setup: the 1847 Silver PT let me play was one of the most responsive harps I've ever played. No buzzing or rattling, which PT attributed to the valve material he uses, and that he set up the harp.
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Bilzharp
4 posts
Aug 14, 2014
8:55 AM
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I have a hard time aligning the valves inside the comb on holes 1-6, so I'd start with a harp that has already had it done to see if that's the direction you want to take. PT's harps are only a few bucks more than the stock Seydel to have it done. You definitely have to adapt your playing style but unlike overbends, you can start hitting the valve bends within a few hours. I'm probably gonna stick with overbends since I'm already used to that but if I was starting out I think I'd try putting some serious time into half valving first. Downside: It is one more thing you have to fool with if you're replacing a reed or doing other work on your harp and they seem a little touchy to me.
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WinslowYerxa
689 posts
Aug 14, 2014
8:57 AM
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The loudness and tonal quality of the valved notes changes. For instance, Blow 1 through 6 are now isolated and receive all the exhaled air. As a result they're louder and have a more concentrated tone.
Also, reed gaps need to be set a bit higher as the concentration of breath flow in a single reed can make it blank out more easily. PT is aware of this and has worked with Seydel to ensure that the Gazell Method harps are correctly set up.
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Winslow
SPAH connects the world of harmonica
Deepen your playing at the Harmonica Collective
Last Edited by WinslowYerxa on Aug 14, 2014 9:09 AM
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chromaticblues
1596 posts
Aug 14, 2014
9:29 AM
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@Philosofy
I'm not talking about rattling or buzzing.
I can tell the difference because I'm good enough to do so! I wasn't talking about the setup.
I believe your talking about suede valves.
To expand on Winslow's point, the high end to me seems very unbalanced. The draw notes are to loud. I've spent years learning how to play draw notes on the high fast and loud. So I'm just not interested in relearning. I don't see a great enough upside to it.
That's what I meant by going all in and committing to it.
It's just different! For me in a bad way, but that doesn't mean you or someone else can't do it and get very good at it.
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GMaj7
495 posts
Aug 14, 2014
9:30 AM
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I have several posts on my web site about the topic, but here is one that sort of sums it up.
The other guys here on the forum know quite a bit more about the topic and are more proficient as players using the system, but it is something a serious player should consider.
http://1623customharmonicas.com/2014/01/24/half-valving-diatonic-wind-savers-and-the-single-reed-bend/
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Greg Jones
16:23 Custom Harmonicas
greg@1623customharmonicas.com
1623customharmonicas.com
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Mahcks
12 posts
Aug 14, 2014
9:43 AM
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Bilzharp, I've found that it's easier to attach the valves to the comb. If you'd like I can take some pictures of my process.
The only downside I haven't seen listed is how easy it is to stick a valve. You'll want to clean your harp more often. Cold or even chili weather is going to kill your vibe.
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arzajac
1444 posts
Aug 14, 2014
9:49 AM
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Half-valving is simple, but it's not easy. It takes a lot of practice to get good control of those single-reed bends.
(Especially) on the top end, I find it essential to do reed work and embossing (of course, start with an airtight harp) to make the reeds all respond with precision and consistency.
Single reed bends (like overblows) are prone to squealing and reedwork/embossing can help. So in some ways, half-valved bends can have the same disadvantages as overbends. I don't think it's reasonable to expect those notes to be clean and easy on any 'ol harp onto which you put in some Ultrasuede valves.
You can cut the free end of the valve in such a way as to provide some air leak to even out response. The valve doesn't need to be airtight to do its job.
Another downside is that the valves are the most fragile component of the harp. A good harp can play well for decades. I would not expect any valve to last that long.
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Custom overblow harps. Harmonica service and repair.
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