jnorem
491 posts
Aug 06, 2014
3:49 PM
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Say I have a C harp. Is it possible to apply valves only to those holes that will result in my being able to blow a major 7th in hole 6 and draw a flatted 3rd in hole 7? Or do you have to do a full valve-job? (Actually I guess that would be a full-half-valve-job.)
It's just occurred to me that the guys who are the most qualified to answer this question are all at the SPAH convention.
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Call me J
Last Edited by jnorem on Aug 06, 2014 5:57 PM
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timeistight
1636 posts
Aug 06, 2014
6:56 PM
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Yes, you can valve as few reeds as you need.
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jnorem
497 posts
Aug 06, 2014
6:58 PM
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Great. Thanks, timeistight.
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Call me J
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Gnarly
1082 posts
Aug 07, 2014
5:09 AM
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Brendan Power doesn't seem to be here at SPAH--and he is knowledgeable on the subject.
Arthur is, tho--timeistight.
I sometimes like to valve holes seven and eight to provide draw bends on those notes,
Last Edited by Gnarly on Aug 07, 2014 5:11 AM
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jnorem
507 posts
Aug 07, 2014
12:18 PM
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Which holes do I apply the valves to to get the (2nd position) major 7th in hole 6 and flatted 3rd in hole 7?
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Call me J
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chromaticblues
1588 posts
Aug 07, 2014
1:55 PM
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Place a valve over the 6 draw reed (on the opposite side of the reedplate as the reeds). You will be able to bend the 6 blow (root note 8 or 1) down to the major 7.
When you put the valve on look at the reedplate close and you should be able to see where the reedplate was touching the comb and where it wasn't. You have to be careful and make sure the valve doesn't hit the comb as it swings. This isolates the 6 blow from the draw, but the 6 draw will still work as it did before. You'll gain the ability to bend the 6 blow down but loose the ability to overblow.
To get the minor 3rd you place a valve on blow 7.
Place them on the opposite side as the reeds. You glue them on where the rivet is.
This will give you the ability to bend the 7 draw down to the minor 3rd.
Hope this helps!
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jnorem
509 posts
Aug 07, 2014
2:52 PM
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Beautiful chromaticblues, many thanks.
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Call me J
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Thievin' Heathen
359 posts
Aug 09, 2014
8:01 AM
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Hopefully, this thread will devolve into "stuff around the house that makes good valve material". I can contribute a long list of stuff that doesn't.
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jnorem
511 posts
Aug 09, 2014
9:46 AM
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I got the Seydel valves, said to be the best available.
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Call me J
Last Edited by jnorem on Aug 09, 2014 9:47 AM
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Thievin' Heathen
362 posts
Aug 10, 2014
11:13 AM
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J, are you talking about Seydel's PT Gazel's for diatonics or their standard chromatic replacement windsavers?
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Bilzharp
1 post
Aug 11, 2014
6:22 AM
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I've started to valve holes 7-10 on the blow plate of several of my harps so I can get draw bends on those holes. It's much easier to install valves on the blow plate since they don't bump into the comb. Plus, I kind of stink at the #7 conventional overdraw and with valves, you can get that same note from the #8 valved bend (is that the right terminology for this?)
I'm a big fan of PT Gazel's playing and have a couple of his half-valved Seydels but since I can sort of manage overblows already, it's a bit more of a learning curve than I can muster at this point to control the valved bends on holes 1-6.
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