Barley Nectar
467 posts
Aug 03, 2014
9:05 AM
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I am reposting this procedure so that others may find this info more easily.
First I scrubbed the crap out of it with Spic-N-Span. Then painted the end caps with flat brown Rustolum as planed. I then put on a sealer coat of satin Minwax poly just on the cleaned up tweed. Next went two coats of Minwax Honey Pine as is touted on the web. I put this on the entire cab. I could tell that I was not getting the results I was looking for. The tweed was still basically yellow. Yuck! I looked thru the paint cabinet and found Minwax Red Oak oil based stain. Remember I said, it needed some red... I used a syringe and put 20 drops of Honey Pine poly on a plastic cap. Next I added drops of the Red Oak stain. When I got to five drops I tried this on the tweed inside the cab. That was the winner! Next, the entire cab got a coat of the Honey Pine/Red Oak concoction. That is a 4:1 ratio. WOW, Perfect... After two days of dry time the cab got rubbed down with a brown 3M scratch pad. Next a coat of Minwax satin poly, one more light rub with the 3M pad then the final coat of satin poly. Notice that the cab was masked on the inside, the inside tweed was treated the same as the outside. Just like painting a car a different color.
Edit: First disassemble the amp then clean the tweed, many cleaners may work. The tweed will look crapy till it dries. Glue down any loose tweed. I used Elmers wood glue. Mask of any thing that does not get coated. I masked the badges rather then takeing a chance of bending them when while removing. Seal the tweed with clear poly. I used Minwax products throughout for compatibility. I feel that one coat of the Honey Pine/Red Oak concoction
will give similar results though maybe a smidge lighter. The mix used was 4:1, four parts Minwax Honey Pine poly to one part Minwax Red Oak oil based stain. Mix well and brush out well. Finishing up with two coats of the satin poly is probably best. Remember to scuff up the poly between coats. The brown 3M scratch pad worked well and did not fuzz the tweed. Good Luck...BN
Last Edited by Barley Nectar on Aug 03, 2014 9:48 AM
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Barley Nectar
468 posts
Aug 03, 2014
9:39 AM
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Before:
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tmf714
2665 posts
Aug 03, 2014
11:27 AM
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I used Bill Hulett's formulation from the TDI page on my 59 RI-it came out awesome!! Super relic looking-I used Zinsser Bullseye Amber Shellac cut with denatured alchohol. 3 coats did the trick-I left all the snags ,water marks and scuffs on the tweed
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tmf714
2666 posts
Aug 03, 2014
11:32 AM
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Barley Nectar
471 posts
Aug 03, 2014
7:49 PM
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Yep, that looks real good too. Has a little more of an orangish color. I am not crazy about the color of raw tweed. Not very durable either. The stuff needs coated with something. Have you done any electrical changes, tube swaps? Thanks for the cool pic...BN
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Slimharp
364 posts
Aug 04, 2014
7:36 AM
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Hey Nectar - tmf both amps look great. Very very nice. I have done a couple with Min-wax Honey Pine and they turned out very nice. One thing for sure, it is a labor of love. These projects are not quickie fixes. I have a couple of questions.
1. The clear poly is acrylic. How does that work with the oil based honey pine ?
2 I used the green 3M pad very lightly and I got some marks on the tweed, like striping, especially on the sides. Wonder why ?
3. tmf where - how can I find the TDI page about the Amber Shellac process ? I have heard about using this product.
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tmf714
2669 posts
Aug 04, 2014
11:05 AM
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Here is the original post from Bill:
Tweed shellac recipe - Bill Hullet
The Best formula I've ever seen is a 50/50 mix of orange shellac and denatured alchohol. this formula was created by out own ALAN PINTER ....easy...fast drying ....and very authentic looking..
Bill Hullett
The product is made by Zinsser.
It is called Bulls Eye Shellac. Under the word Shellac on the can appears the word AMBER. I'ts in an orange and white can. I bought mine at a paint store, $8.99. It comes in quart or gallon cans. It used to be called 3lb orange shellac, says that on the can too. Now is called amber. Shellac comes in clear and amber. You want amber.
A quart of each (denatured alcohol and shellac) is more than enough to put two coats on a amp. Denatured alcohol was $2.75 at Menards and $3.99 at the paint store.
You also use the denatured alcohol to clean the brush. Every where with this info says use a china bristle brush, which I did. Brush is around $6.
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tmf714
2670 posts
Aug 04, 2014
11:07 AM
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I went overboard on mine-Hoffman point-to-point kit,all vintage NOS tubes,bias pot,Jensen P-10 R's,
-great amp-sold it to buy one of Rod's HarpKing's.
Last Edited by tmf714 on Aug 04, 2014 11:08 AM
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Barley Nectar
472 posts
Aug 04, 2014
8:26 PM
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Slimharp:
1-Both products clean up with mineral spirits so I figured they are compatible. I thought the Minwax Honey Pine was poly with color added. Anyhoo, the clear satin poly went over the color coat just fine.
2-I had 4 coats of stuff on the tweed before I used the scratch pad. That must have protected the tweed from abrasion.
You are right about the labor of love. These jobs take time and patience. I was sad when is was done because I enjoy doing weird stuff like this. We have custom amps here. Not like anyone else's, and they look and sound killer!!! BN
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Slimharp
366 posts
Aug 04, 2014
9:58 PM
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Thanks for the responses guys. Next one I do I will try the Zinsser Shellac. I have done Min-wax poly acrylic tinted - 5 coats -super easy and very fast drying. Just a tad brittle after drying. Min-wax Poly shades - Honey Pine oil base 4 coats - is a pain in the ass but worth it. I completely strip my amps and mask off the interior margins. Been a painter by trade for 40 years. Kinda intense work but well worth it. You can not half ass this project. Nothing like coming into the room the day after finishing and feasting your eyes on your work.A total transformation and it protects and makes the tweed way more durable.Sorta like a hard shell finish !!!
Last Edited by Slimharp on Aug 04, 2014 10:02 PM
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