johnnycajon
10 posts
Jul 11, 2013
6:03 AM
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Hi all
I'm sure this topic has come up before, so apologies for that, but I find it difficult to search for previous topics on this site. No disrespect to the site; as a musician I can think of a ton of things to do in preference to designing web sites and this one has proven to be so useful to a newbie like me.
Anyway, I'm new to mic restoration and I've just bought a couple of Shure green bullet shells on ebay to fix up at my leisure. No urgency as I have other options for miccing.
I know a little about which elements to look for but I'm not sure what else I need to get hold of to get the things working. Can anyone help me identify the various parts that I need to get hold of to restore these mics? Maybe there is an exploded diagram somewhere that I can take a look at. It would be appreciated.
I've got a couple of UK based Hamfests lined up in my diary to visit over the summer to pick up my pieces. All I need now is a shopping list and some patience.
By the way, my VHT Spec6 is working out nicely. I changed the tubes and the speaker with a Weber Vintage. Sounds juicy sweet; just need a decent bullet to compliment my rig.
Cheers for now
johnnycajon
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Wendell
14 posts
Jul 11, 2013
7:00 AM
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Hi Johnny
Here is a list of the common components:
o Shell - can be left original, powder coated or chromed.
o Element - choice of element can be Dynamic or Crystal/Ceramic.
o Gasket - Choice of element will determine proper gasket; new gasket is important.
o Volume pot - (if desired) Again choice of element is a consideration; For Crystal/Ceramic element, a value of 5Meg Ohm is required. For Shure CR/CM element the value can be 100K to 250K Ohms.
The location of the volume pot, usually in the stand-hole, puts it close to the connector. Select a knob that is small enough. Alternate location is at the tip of the bullet.
o Connector - Switchcraft 2501MP is the most commonly used connector. The right way to install it is to drill and tap the hole.
o - Good quality wire with shrink wrapped solder connections. One common ground point usually a ground lug drilled and tapped in one of the bosses inside the shell.
o - Silk for the grille like frosting on a cupcake.
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wendell
my youtube
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johnnycajon
12 posts
Jul 16, 2013
8:24 AM
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Thanks for the advice Wendell. I have purchased the said parts and they are flying across the Atlantic as we speak.
johnny
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Kingley
2900 posts
Jul 16, 2013
8:51 AM
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The best option for an element is either a Controlled Magnetic (CM) element or a Controlled Reluctance (CR) one. The CM is usually cheaper than a CR. A good CM 99A86, 99B86 or 99S556 would most likely cost you about £50-£70 on ebay.
Regarding the connector. I'd advise you send it to Greg Heumann and have him install the 2501MP connector for you. His work is top notch and you'll have a connector that you know you can rely on. I'd take it to the States with you and post it to Greg once you're over there. That will save you heap on the postage. Greg can then send it back to you in the UK once it's done.
Gaskets - If there isn't one already in the mic, go to www.harpmicgaskets.com they are the best around and cheap. He has an eBay store and it'll cost you about £16 for one.
I wouldn't bother with volume pot installation as it can interfere with getting a good cup on the mic sometimes. I'd get one of Greg's inline volume controls if you feel you need a volume control at all.
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