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Dirty-South Blues Harp forum: wail on! > Half-Valving
Half-Valving
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PT
1 post
Aug 21, 2009
4:12 AM
In response to numerous inquiries at SPAH last week. I would like to open a discussion on half-valving diatonics. If you have a specific question perhaps I can answer it.

PT Gazell
PT
2 posts
Aug 21, 2009
4:16 AM
Here is a clip of me playing a "Monk" tune using half-valving in 5th position to facilitate the melody line.

Hollistonharper
123 posts
Aug 21, 2009
5:57 AM
Welcome to the forum, PT! would you mind explaining how valves work on a diatonic and exactly what effects and benefits you get from using them? Thanks.
PT
3 posts
Aug 21, 2009
7:08 AM
Sure....by placing a valve over the opposite reed slot we are trying to manipulate we can do additional blow and draw bends. For instance, by putting a valve over the 6th hole draw reed slot we can now blow bend hole 6 to get the major 7th. Likewise, if we place a valve over the 7th hole blow reed slot we can now draw bend hole 7.
The end result is the same as learning over blows except that this is a technique that most diatonic harmonica players already possess. The term half valving refers to the fact that we put a valve over the first 6 draw reed slots and the last four blow reed slots. That totals 10 valves out of a possible 20, or half. While some of the valves produce a half step bend that is already on the harmonica, (i.e. 4th hole blow bend is the same as 3 draw) the ability to shade or round off every note on the diatonic gives the instrument increased emotional content.

Hope this helps
PT Gazell
sorin
36 posts
Aug 21, 2009
7:16 AM
Is there any disadvantage, any down side to a half valved harp?
tookatooka
403 posts
Aug 21, 2009
7:24 AM
How can we make our own valves? I've heard of mylar and micropore being used together. Any thoughts?
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When I'm not blowing, I'm drawing.
PT
4 posts
Aug 21, 2009
7:31 AM
If I had to say there was any disadvantage (although it does not bother me for my style) it would be that it slightly changes the sound of the diatonic since air is not always passing over two reeds as on a un-valved harmonica. The clip I included above is with a valved harmonica. Most people would not hear a difference. I think the advantages which I outlined earlier outweigh this one small tone change.

PT
PT
5 posts
Aug 21, 2009
7:34 AM
As far as making your own...if you want to experiment with a half valved harmonica...I would get some plastic windsavers from Seydel or Hohner and put it on a C harmonica and see how you like it before going overboard. Half Valving should appeal to melody players who want to have access to all the notes, and anyone who is proficient at bending to pitch.

PT
Tuckster
216 posts
Aug 21, 2009
9:29 AM
Welcome to the forum,PT. I assume what you did on that video is not possible(or a lot harder) on a standard diatonic? Do you have to change the way you play? I know Suzuki makes a valved Promaster. Is there a certain brand you recommend?
Hollistonharper
125 posts
Aug 21, 2009
9:43 AM
I just called Hohner for windsavers and they charge $25 plus $9 shipping--that's a little rich for me for an experiment. Does anyone have any DIY suggestions for making them yourself?
walterharp
26 posts
Aug 21, 2009
10:57 AM
Nice playing, and welcome to the forum!
How do you rate half valving against the xb-40? I like playing the xb-40 for sure.
Greg Heumann
130 posts
Aug 21, 2009
11:39 AM
This is something I've been wondering about too, PT - thanks for initiating and contributing to the discussion.
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/Greg

http://www.BlowsMeAway.com
http://www.BlueStateBand.net
Patrick Barker
391 posts
Aug 21, 2009
12:25 PM
The tone sounds more similar to a chromatic to me
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It's all in the tongue
PT
6 posts
Aug 21, 2009
1:14 PM
$25.00!!!! Really! About 3 years ago it was $3.00 for a bag full. All you had to do was cut to length. Check with Seydelusa.com and see if Rupert will sell you some. Seydel will also valve any diatonic you buy from them. So if you want a new harp this may be of interest to you. Actually I love this idea cause' you can buy one of their $35.00 harmonicas and have them valve it for about $12.00 and there you go.
PT
7 posts
Aug 21, 2009
1:17 PM
I like the standard diatonic better for half valved playing than the XB-40. Although the XB-40 has valves in it, it's more complicated than that. It has enabler reeds which are set to a 0 gap besides valves. All that aside I don't like the size or the tone and it's way to easy to bend past the desired note. Just my humble opinion.
PT
8 posts
Aug 21, 2009
1:19 PM
Your assessment of it sounding more chromatic like is also a view that I share. I believe it brings the diatonic and chromatic closer together in tone. The tongue at least in my case has nothing to do with it. I am primarily a pucker player.
PT
9 posts
Aug 21, 2009
1:31 PM
Tuckster,

I would imagine that someone could pull this off on a regular diatonic in some position (3rd maybe) It can also be done with overblows. I did not change my technique of playing at all. I tell people all the time that if they can blow bend holes 8, 9, and 10 then just use that same technique and use it on blow notes 5 & 6. The valves make it possible to achieve this. I have also said all along that there is no magic bullet and you need to be a good bender of notes with good intonation to really take advantage of this technique. in addition to the promaster from Suzuki, Seydel will half valve and diatonic that they sell. Visit www.seydelusa.com
Aussiesucker
336 posts
Aug 21, 2009
2:49 PM
Hi, interesting thread.

Having a couple of Chroms I find that valves give me lots of problems sticking & popping ie I would presume the same problems still exist for a valved diatonic?

Whenever I play my chroms I always warm them up first, which at times is a real hassle, otherwise with sticking and popping they become unplayable.On advice received from Brendan Power I trimmed the outside windsavers and this made the Suzuki playable but only after warming it up.

On the question of valves some years ago I purchased a packet (100's) from Bill Romel at Customcraft Harmonicas 8524 Summer Vista Ave. Las Vegas, Nevada 89145. From memory the valves didn't cost very much. I have yet to use them so I will try some on a diatonic.
Buddha
937 posts
Aug 21, 2009
3:00 PM
Knowing PT has forced me to learn how to play with Valves. I don't know which method makes you a bigger nut - overblowing or valves - but I do know that PT sounds fantastic and overall the sound is more even than using OBs.

I'm pretty adept at playing with valves but I can't play as quickly as I can using OBs. I don't know if it's a limitation of the valve technique or MY limitation with the valve technique.

Tone wise I think it's the superior method but it seems to be the more difficult method of playing chromatically
PT
10 posts
Aug 21, 2009
3:50 PM
Yes, plastic valves in diatonics are subject to the same moisture, temperture, and noise issues as chromatics. That's why people are always experimenting with new materials. I use something called ultrasuede that seems to work great. It can be had at a fabric store. Go get a scrape or sample and see for yourself. Trimming back the valve slightly at the end of the reed slot is a good thing no matter what you use.

Last Edited by on Aug 21, 2009 3:53 PM
PT
11 posts
Aug 21, 2009
3:57 PM
If you are referring to playing chromatically in terms of playing in different keys on one harmonica, then I cannot comment. If you mean adding chrometicity to your playing by being able to fill in the missing notes in the scale, then I beg to differ. The riffs just are arranged differently and sound different.
Buddha
938 posts
Aug 21, 2009
4:02 PM
PT,

BINGO!!! Now I get it. I can't help my approach to the harp and wanting to playing in multiple keys.

If you're adding just the few missing notes then I agree that valves may be the way to go.

This OB thing has me so twisted that I hardly ever think of 2nd position and just the few missing notes. In some of the positions that I have used all of the notes seem to be missing especially if I have been hanging out with Todd Edmunds.
PT
12 posts
Aug 21, 2009
4:16 PM
Yeah.....
jnorem
43 posts
Feb 23, 2014
3:30 PM
Hi PT. Great work on the Monk tune.

What kind of harmonica were you playing in the clip? I thought it looked like a Special 20.

Question 2: Can you put valves only on holes 6 and 7? I like the idea of being able to play the 6 hole major seven and the 7 hole minor third.


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Call me J

Last Edited by jnorem on Feb 23, 2014 4:02 PM
Gnarly
917 posts
Feb 24, 2014
12:27 AM
Bill Romel has passed but his widow still makes the self adhesive valves. They are a good call for this purpose, as you can remove them and reposition them, or if you are careful, reattach them elsewhere.
http://www.harmonica-workshop.com/ will get you her email addy.
They make it easy to get into windsavers.
Only tonight I used a D major cross with valves on 7 and 8, and got the draw bends on those holes which give you the notes you normally have to overbend.

Last Edited by Gnarly on Feb 24, 2014 12:29 AM
root
12 posts
Feb 24, 2014
8:46 AM
I use the Romel valves. Easy to install and only 20 cent each. Betty's phone is720-256-7470.-Greg
jnorem
44 posts
Feb 24, 2014
11:26 AM
Great, thanks for the tip.

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Call me J
jnorem
549 posts
Sep 06, 2014
3:40 PM
Putting valves on blow 6 and 7 draw does exactly what I wanted. As has been said, you can't hit the bends hard, but after only a bit of messing about I was able to blow a major 7th and draw a flatted 3rd. Nice.

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Call me J
Piro39
73 posts
Sep 06, 2014
6:34 PM
Is the reed gapping any different for valved reeds? Would one make larger gaps?
jnorem
550 posts
Sep 06, 2014
7:02 PM
I wouldn't think so.
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Call me J


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