GermanHarpist
443 posts
Jul 03, 2009
3:02 PM
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I always wanted to play that MB because of the legendary tone. However, the swelling comb kept me from buying one... Anyway, today I wanted to try to replace the nails with screws... and then seal that f**in comb.
So following the instructions of N62KN in a video I had seen quite a while ago, I first replaced the nails of the coverplates...
worked like a charm:
Then I wanted to do the same with the reed plates.
Blow reedplate:
Draw reedplate:
Seemed pretty similar, so I started drilling...
... but , WTF ?? LOL
So, all you MB customizers out there, what now? How do you replace the nails of the reedplates?
Damn it I wonna play that MB. But it won't be tonight...
Help a brother out :)
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germanharpist, harpfriends on Youtube
Last Edited by on Jul 04, 2009 4:39 PM
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Kingley
179 posts
Jul 03, 2009
3:13 PM
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GH it looks like you may have taken the plates off and then drilled them. If you go to this link there are 11 videos which explain the process step by step.
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=proveit&view=videos
Also harponline.de have a great series of picture lessons on how to do it as well.
http://www.harponline.de/index.php?page=ws_dia/ws20_dia/ws20_dia&lang_id=en_GB&
Last Edited by on Jul 03, 2009 3:17 PM
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GermanHarpist
445 posts
Jul 03, 2009
3:16 PM
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Thanks Kingley, I'll check it out right away!
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germanharpist, harpfriends on Youtube
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Buddha
765 posts
Jul 03, 2009
5:57 PM
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you need a drilling template or just remove all of the nails and then replace a couple on the end to hold it together. I put four screws in mine space two reeds apart. And then the cover plate screws.
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ElkRiverHarmonicas
75 posts
Jul 03, 2009
10:20 PM
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Keep the harp together. Start on the draw side, the nail beside the No. 2 draw.
Now drill.
Next, take out the nails at 5 blow and 5 draw, they are close enough you need to take both out. Drill.
Put your next one under the nail (toward the bottom of the harp I mean) between 8 and 9.
Drill, then seal.
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Kingley
181 posts
Jul 04, 2009
3:16 AM
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I do mine the same way that Dave suggested. Also I drill out the coverplates first.
I always use a tap for the screws on my reedplates as well. I just prefer it over self tapping screws.
I use beeswax to seal my combs, but I'm always considering alternatives.
Dave what's the curing time for Butchers Block Oil?
How does it compare to Beeswax as a sealer/finish?
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GermanHarpist
447 posts
Jul 04, 2009
3:35 AM
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Kingley, that was very insightful, I'll try it today.
Buddha, yeah, a template would probably be the best solution...
Dave, I don't really see what you mean without the harp infront of me but I'll check it out when I work on it tonight.
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germanharpist, harpfriends on Youtube
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Tryharp
227 posts
Jul 04, 2009
4:11 AM
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GH,
Thats what happened to me the first one I tried. Your brain naturally thinks the holes line up, but they dont.
I also basically do what Dave says.
Keep the harp together and always keep enough nails or screws in it to stop the comb from pivoting on the reed plates. Drill through the three bottom holes with the draw plate up + the four cover plate holes.
I'm too scared to put one out in the front centre tine as N62KN does, I use 2mm bolts which would weaken the tine too much I think.
I then use a 2mm tap to thread one side of the reed plate, and drill the other side and comb out to 2mm
Good luck, I know you will be very happy with your experiment.
Tryhap
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wheezer
83 posts
Jul 04, 2009
5:01 AM
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Hi G Harp. I do have a video on youtube (enter N62KNM to take you to the page)covering drilling wooden combs.
Unless you have a very steady hand and good eye you really need a pillar drill to do this.
If you want to drill the tines to screw the front of the reed plates (a must in my opinion)you have to remove the plates from the comb before any drilling otherwise you stand a very good chance of snapping the tine. All is explained in the video. Good luck.
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Tryharp
229 posts
Jul 04, 2009
6:11 AM
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Wheezer,
Why do you think the bolt out front is a must. Ive buggerised around trlying to prove it one way or another and havent found an answer yet.
I tend to think its more about controlled air flow, rather than airtightness, as Buddha has suggested.
ie some holes you have to back off on or it chokes anyway, so why is airthightness important??
Let me know what you think!
Tryharp
Last Edited by on Jul 04, 2009 6:13 AM
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Kingley
182 posts
Jul 04, 2009
6:20 AM
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I can't see a viable reason to put screws at the front of the reedplate.
I don't know of any other customiser who does this.
Drilling through the tines would at the best of times be a hazardous proposition. The breakage factor would I believe be fairly high.You would also be weakening the structural integrity of the tine even further by drilling it.
As long as you fit the plates to the sealed comb properly, then 3 screws in the positions stated by Dave should be good enough. The rest is all down to reedwork (gapping, arcing,etc).
Most customisers don't even use four screws on the covers either as it's just not necessary.
I only use four as I prefer it aesthetically.
Last Edited by on Jul 04, 2009 6:21 AM
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wheezer
84 posts
Jul 04, 2009
8:26 AM
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If you only have screws only at the back of the comb, as you tighten them, you will cause lift at the front of the reed plates. Although this may only be slight it is enough to allow moisture between the plate and the top of the wooden tine. All the MB Deluxe that I have worked on have had stains from moisture between the plates and the comb along the top of the tine.
Drilling the tine is a very tricky thing to do but I consider it worth the effort as all the harps I have done this to do not allow any moisture anywhere between the plates and the comb.
Hering use a different approach on the Vintage harp. They put a screw towards the front of the comb to the left of hole one and to the right of hole 10 as well as along the back. None of any models of these harps I have worked on have shown an sign of moisture staining
so if you don't want to drill the tines, you can go the way of Hering which seems to work pretty well.
By the way, I would like to know how you can control airflow if the harp is leaking?
Last Edited by on Jul 04, 2009 8:27 AM
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Buddha
766 posts
Jul 04, 2009
8:37 AM
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if the comb and reed plates are precisely flat then a small vacuum is created and you shouldn't even need screws other than to hold things in place.
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ElkRiverHarmonicas
76 posts
Jul 04, 2009
9:19 PM
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Drilling through the tines is OK, if you are a factory. In the real world, it's not so easy unless your drill press has ZERO run out. The only wood I've ever done it with is American Chestnut, because of its stablility.
Instead of drilling the tines, get a tight fit at the top of the coverplate. That's what's supposed to hold it all down.
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