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The Silver Bullet
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Rick Davis
582 posts
Jul 28, 2012
1:53 PM


Shure 440SL shell with 99B86 element (June of 1959) and vintage volume control from Greg Huemann at blowsmeaway.com. My new "go to" mic.

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-Rick Davis

Last Edited by on Jul 28, 2012 1:53 PM
Noodles
169 posts
Jul 28, 2012
2:01 PM
Rick, that's a beauty. Saw your video from last night--very nice. Too bad it didn't last a bit longer.
Rick Davis
583 posts
Jul 28, 2012
2:18 PM
FYI, I wasn't using this mic last night. I ordered the VC on Wednesday and it arrived this morning. Again, turbo shipping from Greg Heumann. Much appreciated.

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-Rick Davis
CarlA
85 posts
Jul 28, 2012
2:23 PM
Sweet mic!
Noodles
171 posts
Jul 28, 2012
3:11 PM
Rick...
What's the Name/Part# for the fitting that screws into the mic body? And, what's the hole and thread size in the mic body to receive that adapter? The reason I ask is that I have an extra body (520DX) that I want to try something with. It has a threaded mic stand hole, but it's not the right size - correct? - or is there another way to do it?
Rick Davis
584 posts
Jul 28, 2012
3:17 PM
The connector is Switchcraft 2501MP. I don't know the specs but I'm sure you can Google it.

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-Rick Davis
Libertad
113 posts
Jul 28, 2012
4:17 PM
Check half way down on Greg's page and How to fit a connector here

Martin
Greg Heumann
1722 posts
Jul 28, 2012
8:44 PM
@noodles: There are some things you should know. You'll need a 3/8-32 tap and a "Q" drill. If you want the connector to fit flush and not show the knurled part, you'll need a lot of patience with a file, or a lathe to turn the knurled part down. Turn it down too far and the wall thickness will suffer making the connector weak. Compare this pic to the one above:



Be VERY careful when you drill out the hole as well. The mic is made of cast zinc which is almost as soft as lead. It wants to grab the drill bit and if you don't have the shell held firmly I guarantee that it will. A shell stuck on a drill bit, spinning around at speed is not something to take lightly. Best case it hurts. Worts case you could break a bone or tear yourself up a bit. Dangerous. I have a specialized vise with custom soft jaws to do this job.


It is also very hard to get the tap started straight without a good method of holding the tap and mic in alignment while doing the operation.

When you screw in the connector, you need to get it in tightly - or there is a chance that the loctite (which wicks around and expands when it cures) will completely insulate the connector from the shell, removing the ground connection. I use a collet chuck to hold the connector tightly without damaging the threads - and hold that in a vise to do this.

You'll also need to drill and tap a small hole inside the shell so you can ground the shell to the element - as there is no longer a ground wire coming up from the connector.

Once you have that done, you'll find the retaining ring that screws the cable onto the mic's connector will interfere with the volume knob. You can shave down the knob a little with a razor blade and it will be free to turn, but it won't be pretty. Also because that ring is about 3/4" in diameter it is much harder to get your thumb and forefinger around the connector to grasp the knob to turn it. The solution to THAT is make an extension knob that lets you grasp the knob down where the connector is narrower.

There's no rocket science to any of this, but the fact is that doing the job reliably, safely and properly takes experience and some special tools. Your first time isn't likely to be pretty. I charge $35 to put a connector in, flush. That's less than the drill bit and tap will cost you. I charge $15 to put a female connector on the cable that comes out of the mic, and $19 to make an extension knob if you need it.

I do this several times a month, every month - so I'm good at it.

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/Greg

BlowsMeAway Productions
See my Customer Mics album on Facebook
BlueState - my band
Bluestate on iTunes

Last Edited by on Jul 28, 2012 8:49 PM
Noodles
172 posts
Jul 28, 2012
9:39 PM
Thank you for the responses.

Greg... I hear you loud and clear.
Willspear
188 posts
Jul 30, 2012
4:59 AM
The 440sl shell feels great. Slightly different shape than the avg 520. I have one and it screams and has a quite pleasing range from thundering bottom to ripping highs.

My 440 is my most aggressive mic by a mile.

Even swapping elements I think the shell makes lesser elements sound better. Could be imagining that

Last Edited by on Jul 30, 2012 5:05 AM
Frank
948 posts
Jul 30, 2012
6:09 AM
Many moons ago I had a buddy update my bullet with a quick jack and a handy little on/off switch...





Rick Davis
593 posts
Jul 30, 2012
1:17 PM
@Willspear - "The 440sl shell feels great. Slightly different shape than the avg 520. I have one and it screams and has a quite pleasing range from thundering bottom to ripping highs.

My 440 is my most aggressive mic by a mile."

I agree. I gigged the mic last night for the first time. It screams, and it is quite feedback resistant. That could be more a consequence of the particular element, but it was sure fun to play. I heard lots of nice comments about the tone. It made the Bassman stand up and talk!

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-Rick Davis

Last Edited by on Jul 30, 2012 1:20 PM
Willspear
189 posts
Jul 30, 2012
2:23 PM
I think the native element has a bit more highs than other generation cm's not quite as scrubbed off.

The vent on the bottom of tge shell is also 1 large hole instead of two really tiny ones. If you plug it it affects tone on mine atleast. I close it off when I cup. I have heard of filling that vent.
Rick Davis
594 posts
Jul 30, 2012
3:16 PM
On mine the hole is filled with epoxy and sanded off smooth on the surfaces.

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-Rick Davis


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