didjcripey
56 posts
Mar 31, 2011
4:04 PM
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A while back I bought myself a suzuki pro in low f. At nearly one hundred bucks I had pretty high expectations, especially since I love the new Manji's.
At first I found the solid metal comb a bit weird and uncomfortable on the tongue, and the first dozen or so times I played it I ended up with metal particles like glitter all over my mouth (hope they didn't get in my lungs), but the big thing is its lack of responsiveness. I expected it to be a little harder to play since its a low F but I find it almost unplayable; some of the blow notes are almost impossible to sound and many of the draw notes are hit and miss; dropping out on bends or not sounding either.
I understand that technique will be a part of this, but I am completely comfortable with a G harp, and actually prefer the lower harps to play. Perhaps I got a dud, but I wonder if anyone else has found this with these harps.
I am thinking about opening the gaps a little, but have wrecked a few good harps this way (lack of expertise). Mind you I don't think I could make it much worse.
Any suggestions?
---------- Lucky Lester
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Jehosaphat
29 posts
Mar 31, 2011
5:42 PM
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The octave starting on the 1 blow on a standard F is in the same tonal range as the one starting on 4 blow on a Low F.In that middle octave does it work for you on the Low one? If that is Ok it is likely to be some technique problem maybe with the low harp. FWIW the only harps that i personally need to emboss are the low ones to ensure that i am delivering all the air i can to the reed.Also gapping is critical too.The 'trick' to safe gapping as such is to make every adjustment as small as you can.Like tiny.Adjust, plink ,try.Adjust plink ,try....Get the blow reed 'close to right' and then adjust the draw to same.Then finalise each reed .The initial work was in tiny moves the final ones are like fractional.Though i find the lower harps are more forgiving on gapping than the higher ones.The top octave on a standard F is (almost) microscope work. I put the harp aside for a couple of days and then its a matter of checking the tuning and that evrything is still working Ok. Anyway this is what i do to my low harps to make 'em more user friendly.
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didjcripey
57 posts
Mar 31, 2011
11:17 PM
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Thanks for your most helpful advice Jehosaphat. I really get the advice about safe gapping, seems that this, like so much else is about patience and not rushing.
The whole harp is tight and hard to play, but worst of all is the four hole, both draw and blow, which is the same as the one hole on my standard F which gives me no trouble, so it seems that my technique is not the big issue here.
I opened it up it seems that quality control were having problems the day this harp was made, the metal comb looks like it had been cut with an angle grinder. Leakage would have to be a part of the problem.I have sanded it a bit closer to flush, but wonder if there is something I could use to seal the comb to the reed plates.
Looks like the gaps hadn't been done on the four hole and following your advice was able to improve it considerably, but holding the four blow up to the light I can see that the reed is not lined up in the slot properly and is over to one side.
Considering this harp is called the Promaster, I hope that this was just a bad one, and not a reflection of the usual standard. ---------- Lucky Lester
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hvyj
1345 posts
Mar 31, 2011
11:26 PM
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Suzuki has a one year warranty and their customer service is EXCELLENT. If there's a problem with your harp, call Suzuki customer service and they will go out of their way to make things right.
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chromaticblues
741 posts
Apr 01, 2011
9:39 AM
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Yes didjcripey I found the same thing on the few pro harps I worked on. Not only that take a piece of 220 grit metal sand paper and sand it on both sides a little bit. Then look at the comb. OMG Yeah looks more like a boomarang then a flat comb. Many people say Suzuki's are the leading manufacturer in quality control. Maybe the pro harps are made at a different factory? They might sub-contract the combs work and just assemble them in there factory. I don't know! I do know I have seen one comb that was so badly disformed I didn't try to fix it and sent it back to the owner. The other I sanded down and worked on the harp for 6 hours and it still sucked when I was done! I have heard many people say the Hammond is thier favorite harp. If you need to buy a Suzuki. That may be a better way to go with your next purchase. Call Suzuki up and tell your unhappy with it and would like to return and exchange it for a hammond. It worth a try!
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Fingers
19 posts
Apr 01, 2011
1:43 PM
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I just bought my first Suzuki pro after playing MBs for 20 years!! but had to send it back because the !hole blow was hesitant and slow to respond after reading this post i hope its not a quality issue the replacement is on its way so we shall see!.
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snakes
638 posts
Apr 01, 2011
2:53 PM
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I can also vouch for Suzuki's high quality and great product support. ---------- snakes in Seattle
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Aussiesucker
815 posts
Apr 01, 2011
9:35 PM
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I really like Suzuki Harps ie mainly Bluesmasters and Harpmasters. I have 2 Promasters and whilst they look nice & play ok, I do much prefer the Bluesmaster & Harpmasters which are virtually indestructable.
The only comment I can add re the Promaster is that on both mine a Bb and an A the cover plates do not fit properly. It is possible at each end of both harps to see a sliver of daylight between the comb and coverplates above holes 1,2 9& 10. Tightening the plates makes no difference. I will need to file the plates down but am concerned being chrome plated that I might damage the plating.
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groyster1
972 posts
Apr 01, 2011
10:49 PM
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I have 5 suzukis 3 manjis and a promaster and hammond and the hammond is the best of the lot
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Gnarly
20 posts
Apr 02, 2011
12:43 AM
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I am working for Suzuki, call 800-854-1594, I will make it right for you. Gary
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