Matzen
70 posts
Mar 15, 2011
3:38 AM
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I got bored last night and decided I'd try my hand at customizing a Marine Band. Well so far I opened up the back and rounded off corners. It seems that I didn't plan ahead and took of a little too much wood from the front of the harp. Now the reed plates stick out too far? I was wondering if this can be fixed by drilling oversized holes so I can slide the reed plates further back, 'cuz I am planing on drilling out the holes and using bolts. Maybe someone has a suggestion? Or do I have to toss this one and start over?
Thanks!
I guess it's a little hard to see in the pictures?
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Last Edited by on Mar 15, 2011 3:55 AM
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apskarp
426 posts
Mar 15, 2011
3:49 AM
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You could try to file the reedplates from the front if that isn't too much. That is actually done routinely by customizers to get the reedplate more lip-friendly. You can find at least one good video of it by elkriverharmonica.. (The important thing is that you don't file it so that it becomes sharps and cuts your lip..)
Another option is just to buy a new comb (or take it from some old harp).
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Matzen
71 posts
Mar 15, 2011
3:59 AM
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I've already smoothed out the reed plates. Also, I don't really want to take much more off the front of the plates 'cuz I do like to have "rails" there.
I guess I could buy another comb, but I'd like to save this one!
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Last Edited by on Mar 15, 2011 4:02 AM
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ElkRiverHarmonicas
583 posts
Mar 15, 2011
4:00 AM
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oversize the holes.It will work and you wouldn't be the first!
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www.elkriverharmonicas.com
"There are only two things money can't buy - true love and homegrown tomatoes." - Lewis Grizzard
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Matzen
72 posts
Mar 15, 2011
4:09 AM
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@ElkRiverHarmonica: Thanks, I thought that might work!
Is this also the way that some customizers are able to round over the front of the comb, but still be able to have the reed plates fairly close to the comb (not sticking out far)? I just can't think of another way beside drilling the holes larger. It seems that if you round over the front of the comb and don't drill over sized holes, there would always be quite a distance between the front of the comb and the reed plates?
I swear that I've seen harps with their rounded over combs protruding (sticking out) past the reed plates?
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Last Edited by on Mar 15, 2011 4:26 AM
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HarpNinja
1206 posts
Mar 15, 2011
6:13 AM
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Drill the COMB holes larger if you can. Those can be any size. With the draw plate, you'll want to leave it tapped as is in most cases. However, you can also make the holes in the blow plate larger - but I'd keep them smaller in diameter than the comb holes.
Actually, depending on the comb, you might want to be careful not to get too close to the tines. I did that on a MB comb that wasn't manufactured with holes and broke a tine.
Working with MBs like that is a PIA. For my personal harps, I've gotten lazy and have gotten Crossovers of MBDs when I want a MB.
Regarding the fit in general, some combs are made specifically to have the reed plates flush with the tines. For example, the Sjoeberg combs, even the GM ones, are intentionally made to "recess" the reedplates. If the comb doesn't have holes to start, you can still line it up that way before drilling.
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Mike
Quicksilver Custom Harmonicas
Updated 2/24/11
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harpwrench
449 posts
Mar 15, 2011
6:48 AM
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Moving the comb forward will bring the blow reeds closer to the back wall inside, keep an eye on that. You will also need to be careful drilling the comb for the screw that's normally used between the 2 and 3 reeds, or omit it, it's already close to the back edge. If you're dead set on keeping the comb, consider building up the front of the comb with multiple layers of clear fingernail polish. A new comb would be a lot less hassle:)
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chromaticblues
696 posts
Mar 15, 2011
7:00 AM
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Next time you round the corners off. Do it while the hole harp is intact! Then take it apart and sand the edges down with 400 600 and 800 grit sand paper. Don't worry about the reedplates they are sharp to begin with. Also The more you round the edges off the smaller the harp feels in your hands. For me I did a couple that look like what you did and it felt to small and affected the cup playing amped. Just alittle heads up! Does look pretty though!
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chromaticblues
697 posts
Mar 15, 2011
7:03 AM
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You could just sand it on a flat plate with it all together untill it looks right and then take it apart and smooth out the edges. Thats what I would do, but there is always more than one way to do it!
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HarpNinja
1207 posts
Mar 15, 2011
7:15 AM
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Just in general, any thoughts on where to drill the holes for MBs? I know the nail holes in the draw plate are typical, but if someone was worried about wiggle room, wouldn't the blow plate nail holes be a better guide?
I haven't tried that - almost all the MB combs I've used were pre-drilled via CNC (Buddha combs for example) and had the holes close to the draw plate nail holes.
What I've been able to do in the past with pre-drilled combs is attach the reed plates via the cover screws and then just drill through the whole harp (which is actually just the two reed plates as the holes are already in the comb). I then drill the holes in the blow plate a size bigger for clearance. Finally, I tap the draw plate. The clearance has been enough that if I am not dead center in the comb, it doesn't matter.
I've only ever been off just a hair doing it this way, but I can then put the screws in and THEN sand the perimeter.
Would it be bad advice to suggest using the blow plate as a guide when the comb ISN'T already drilled??? If memory serves me correct, the biggest difference is where the hole would be on the high end of the reed plates. I think the middle and low end screws would only be a mm or two difference from the draw plate.
In theory, the hardest part would be marking where the coverplate holes should be. Once those are drilled, you can attach the reed plates like I explained above, and drill straight through the entire harp (reed plates and comb). Again, in theory, there should be no issues with things lining up. You can always then remove the draw plate and widen the blow plate and comb holes with a bigger bit.
I honestly haven't experimented much with combs that weren't pre-drilled (not counting using stock combs), and the last time I did, I broke the tine on the upper octave, but that was more me trying to rush and not paying attention than anything else.
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Mike
Quicksilver Custom Harmonicas
Updated 2/24/11
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HarpNinja
1208 posts
Mar 15, 2011
7:18 AM
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To clarify, I always sand the perimeter after assembly has been "perfected". I like working with unfinished combs so I can sand those too (Chris did that a lot). Then the last thing I would do is finish the comb. However, with combs that come to me finished, I do the sanding first with the stock comb.
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Mike
Quicksilver Custom Harmonicas
Updated 2/24/11
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chromaticblues
700 posts
Mar 15, 2011
3:51 PM
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@ Harp Ninja
If you have an old Marine Band (the kind that have 6 nails on the drawplate instead of 7) Follow that pattern. I think that will work perfect Mike. I like using nails, but have done 6 screw method and worked well. I like that pattern because your not drilling in any spots that are prone to break. If you don't have one. You could probably find a pic. Those harps really suck so I'm sure you could probably find someone to give you one.
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