Grey Owl
664 posts
Apr 07, 2016
3:32 AM
|
I have had a promaster in C for a couple of years and I like the tone and feel of the harp, but since day one the 3 draw bends were very stiff. I thought they might ease off with play, but they haven't. I have plinked, run a shim down the slots,and checked for centring of both the 3 blow and draw as well as adjusting the blow and draw reeds all to no avail.
I have gapped the blow reed a little wider than I normally do as it felt like there was more resistance than usual (like it would slip into an overblow easy)
If I gap the draw reed wider it's too airy and lacks response and if I close the gap on the draw reed the bends become uncomfortably stiff.
Any ideas on the reason for this or possible solutions? These reeds are welded btw.
Draw plate
Blow plate
YouTube
Last Edited by Grey Owl on Apr 07, 2016 3:35 AM
|
Gnarly
1724 posts
Apr 07, 2016
6:52 AM
|
Boy, great photos!
What happens when you close off the blow slot, i.e., put your thumb on it?
|
Gnarly
1725 posts
Apr 07, 2016
6:53 AM
|
Have you checked the gap at the rivet on the draw reed?
|
Grey Owl
665 posts
Apr 07, 2016
7:20 AM
|
Hi Gnarly, I did run a 0.05 shim under the reed and encountered a couple of small course patches which I shimmed off.
The shim jams about 1/8 inch from the rivet.
***********************************************
Ofir Thanks but no thanks ;)
YouTube
|
STME58
1638 posts
Apr 07, 2016
7:26 AM
|
I have a Bb Promaster and the 2 and 3 draw bends have always been a bit tricky. Other than that I like the harp. Replacing the original comb, which had very visible saw marks on the reed plate face, with a comb from Blue Moon, helped a lot, but did not eliminate the problem. I have replaced the reed plates several times and it currently has Firebreath reed plates, but draw bends are still tricky. I have a C Firebreath (well actually Gnarly has it now for repair) and an F Hammond, harps of very similar design, and they do not have this issue.
|
Grey Owl
666 posts
Apr 07, 2016
7:37 AM
|
Oops missed your 1st comment Gnarly. Tried that just now. You can't bend obviously but the draw feels pretty strong. I have a feeling it's somehow connected to the blow 3 but can't figure it out.
Cheers SMME58 That's interesting to hear. None of my other Suzukis have presented this issue. Hammond/Harmasters Manji and my other Promaster in C (which was valved until I removed them, well I kept 1,2&3.)
YouTube
Last Edited by Grey Owl on Apr 07, 2016 7:38 AM
|
Piro39
97 posts
Apr 07, 2016
7:59 AM
|
I also have noticed this on some Suzuki harps. I have had stiff draw 3 reeds on Manji, Promasters Fire Breaths. I have put aftermarket combs not them, sanded the draw plates and adjusted reeds.The 3 draw bends are stiffer, I can hit them but I often wonder what this is about because I do like Suzuki harps and have not notice this with Hohner, Lee Oscar, Delta Frosts or the few Seydels that I have tried.
|
arzajac
1756 posts
Apr 07, 2016
8:13 AM
|
I strongly suspect the comb and reed plates are not flat. (Common things are common). The reed will feel stiff not because they are not cooperating but because a lot of your air is not even reaching the target (hence the feeling of uncooperative, stiff reeds).
Unfortunately, the aluminum comb cannot be flattened without causing an unpleasant sensation when you touch it with your tongue.
The reed plates can be straightened and flattened. They may be warped from the factory. In cases like this, a hard uneven comb can compound the trouble if the reed plate screws were over tightened. This will distort the plates and you will need meticulously straighten them. It's worse if there were burrs around the screw holes when the harp was first assembled.
Don't despair! Anything can be fixed!
----------
Custom overblow harps. Harmonica Combs and Tools.
|
Gnarly
1726 posts
Apr 07, 2016
8:36 AM
|
If you have another Suzuki model, try swapping the comb to see if it solves your issue.
Many of the other combs will work.
|
Grey Owl
667 posts
Apr 07, 2016
8:58 AM
|
Thanks for the feedback guys much appreciated.
Andrew:-
I hadn't thought of the comb/reed plate flatness in connection with the stiffness of draw, thinking I would get a week airy response (also possible I assume)
I held the reedplate against a window and the shim easily slides under the plate except at the points where my thumb and finger were holding the reed plate. Not scientific I know but it could indicate a bowing of the reed plate lifting it fractionally away from the comb.
I do recall trying to flat sand the aluminium comb at one point and true my tongue now lights up when I play.
I will try sanding the draw plate as you suggest and also try Gnarly's swapping comb suggestion. Thanks again at least I have something to work on now.
YouTube
|
STME58
1639 posts
Apr 07, 2016
9:18 AM
|
I haven't tried it, but I suspect lacquering the aluminum comb like you would a wooden one would stop the galvanic reaction between the brass and the aluminum. All you need is an insulator between the aluminum and your saliva. On a new comb the anodize coat does this. Once you sand it off you need to replace it with something.
I was wondering is beeswax between the comb and the reed plate would seal it, at least as a diagnostic technique if not a permanent solution. If you leave a waxed comb in a hot car the wax may run to places you don't want it.
|
1847
3359 posts
Apr 07, 2016
10:10 AM
|
the 3 hole blow does not appear to be completely centered.
|
Killa_Hertz
966 posts
Apr 07, 2016
12:48 PM
|
Owl the window trick sounds like a decent way. Might have to try it.
Im no expert, but One non scientific way i use to check reedplate straightness(if you are going to flatsand)
First lay it against a flat surface and push the corners to see if it raises up. Adjust it until it stays pretty flat.(it sounds like you have the oposite problem though. So i would lightly bend it by pushing on the center with a finger under each end.)
Then sand it just for a couple passes. You can tell by the Sanding pattern underneath if it's sanding even or not.
IMO (for whatever thats worth .. lol) Could be either:
air from adjacent holes getting thru?(which you can see if you check while sanding)
Or
The shape/arch of the reeds in that slot?
(Im sure none of this information is news to you, but either way.) 8^)
By everyone else's suggestions it seems like these combs are problematic. I have only one promaster, it didn't play great either, but i hated the aluminum comb taste. so i dont play it much. maybe I'll change my comb with another stock comb. I love the shape and feel of the cover plates on the promaster.
----------
Last Edited by Killa_Hertz on Apr 07, 2016 12:55 PM
|
Gnarly
1727 posts
Apr 07, 2016
1:37 PM
|
Manji comb will work . . .
|
Grey Owl
668 posts
Apr 07, 2016
2:21 PM
|
Cheers STME58, Killa.
I'll give that a try Gnarly. Funny, I've just put my promaster covers on the Manji. I notice that I cant put the Manji covers on the Promaster without drilling.
Next problem stiff 2 knee bends, any help?
YouTube
Last Edited by Grey Owl on Apr 07, 2016 2:31 PM
|
Gnarly
1728 posts
Apr 07, 2016
2:42 PM
|
Yer funny--
Hope some of this solves your issues . . .
|
Killa_Hertz
972 posts
Apr 07, 2016
6:09 PM
|
I figured the manji comb would work.
The comb is my biggest beef with the manji. The material is ok. But i just hate how it sits back into the reedplates. I think ill try slotting the holes in the comb so i can slide it forward. With it sitting in like that i get leakage in the corners of my mouth if im not careful. Its distracting. My manji with the hogany is fantastic, but until i can buy a buncha new combs i need a solution.
Owl .... Stiff knees are another issue all together ... lol. Lil tin man oil?
----------
Last Edited by Killa_Hertz on Apr 07, 2016 6:10 PM
|
Grey Owl
669 posts
Apr 08, 2016
8:30 AM
|
Killa :) It was a toss up between that or kneeswax;)
Well, I've checked out the aluminium comb and the plates and they weren't overly flat
So next I did what I'm capable of doing and flat sanded the comb and draw plate which didn't improve things that much.(The comb only showed real signs of sanding at the two ends where the cover plates screws are). I tried the plates on the manji comb and that was better. I then put them on a spare harpmaster plastic comb and that was a lot better.
I also fitted the promaster plates as well because I like them but they fall back into the reed plate grooves which makes the cover plates feel too far back but I'm going to keep them like this for a while and revert to the harpmaster covers if I can't get used to them.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
YouTube
Last Edited by Grey Owl on Apr 08, 2016 8:31 AM
|
FreeWilly
482 posts
Apr 08, 2016
8:38 AM
|
I find that it is possible to slide the stock suzuki combs forwards a bit. Enough for my tastes. The sawing marks on the suzuki combs are annoying though. At that pricepoint they should not be obviously flawed.
|
Piro39
98 posts
Apr 08, 2016
9:35 AM
|
Premium model Suzuki harmonicas at premium prices and we have to deal with their not flat aluminum combs.I think we players as consumers deserve more than what we keep accepting as the norm. Why do I have to keep buying aftermarket combs to correct their defect. Right now I am dealing with an A flat Hammond which I am about to rebuild because the 2 & 3 bends are the worst I have ever experienced, even worse than Hohner's bad days. At one point a lot of players were giving Promasters good reviews so I purchased a bunch of them, same problem, stiff 3 draw bends and sometimes the 2 also. I sanded the draw plates, put on aftermarket combs and did a little reed work and got them to be good players. Once in awhile I would get one that was a real good player out of the box. I must have over 100 diatonics and I know what a good playing harp should feels like. Last night I was comparing Sp20's, Lee Oscars, Promasters,Hammonds, Golden Melodies,and Crossovers all key of A flat with duplicates. Everyone of them has aftermarket combs except the Crossover and has been worked on by me and in my comparison test I found that the Suzukis 3 draw bends are some what stiffer. I can play them but I wonder why? Obviously others are experiencing the same problem otherwise this topic wouldn't be here. I do like the feel and sound of Suzukis once these problems are remedied.
|
STME58
1641 posts
Apr 08, 2016
9:36 AM
|
A couple of you have mentioned that you did not think checking for flatness by comparing to a known flat surface is very scientific. That is the way it is done in the metrology department where I work. Instead of glass, which tends to be quite flat, a precision granite surface table, which is certified flat to .0001 inch or even less, is used. So the only thing you guys are doing that is a bit wrong is taking the glass for granite! :-)
|
Grey Owl
671 posts
Apr 08, 2016
10:27 AM
|
Piro:- I was surprised that the comb uneveness would cause stiff bends but a simple plastic harpmaster comb as replacement did make a difference in my case.
STME58 Flipping heck I've got to buy a slab of granite now!!! I'm picking up my guitar again, it was less hassle;)
YouTube
|
Killa_Hertz
977 posts
Apr 08, 2016
10:55 AM
|
Owl said it wasnt scientific, so i just went with it.
@owl. That's what i was refering to when flat sanding. Being that only the ends showed signs of sanding marks, that proves that your glass test was correct. You just have to keep hittin it until its sanded evenly then step down to finer paper a few times to get a good finish. Probably easier said than done with aluminum, but ....
Should help.
As far as the suzuki stock combs go. I couldn't agree more. I told Tom the manji should come stock with a Hogany comb. Its kinda ridiculous that for the price you then have to change combs. Atleast with a 1896 they re cheap enough to do that.
Ide much rather buy my harps in pieces. But sometimes the reedplates arent so hot when you get em that way.
----------
Last Edited by Killa_Hertz on Apr 08, 2016 11:16 AM
|
Rgsccr
405 posts
Apr 08, 2016
11:20 AM
|
Just wanted to thank Grey Owl for bringing this up and others for suggestions as to solutions. I've had a Seydel Soloist Pro "C" that has been pretty stiff in the three and four draw. I had tried gapping (not that I am really good at that) with no improvement, but the suggestion to flat sand the comb and reed plate might have done the trick. It hadn't occurred to me that that might be necessary, and part of the problem, as the comb looks so nice. However, when I opened the harp up the comb was pretty rough on one side. I sanded the both sides of the comb and the draw reed plate, and re-sealed the comb. Put it back together today and it seems noticeably better. Thanks!
Oh, just a word about the harps - I really like them after using mainly Marine Bands and some Crossovers. The Seydel Soloist Pro (I have A, C and D), seem overall well made and comparable to the Crossovers at a lower price. I did not have similar issues with the A or the D.
Last Edited by Rgsccr on Apr 08, 2016 11:25 AM
|
mlefree
643 posts
Apr 08, 2016
12:12 PM
|
9"x12"x3" granite surface plate, $36 delivered.
Grizzly Tools Granite surface Plate
No serious harmonica player should be without one. Seriously!
Michelle
----------
SilverWing Leather - Custom leather creations for musicians and other eccentrics.
Last Edited by mlefree on Apr 08, 2016 12:14 PM
|
Grey Owl
672 posts
Apr 08, 2016
11:25 PM
|
Thanks for the feedback folks.
Thanks Michelle. Perhaps we should be making combs out of them + they'd be ace for rock music. EDIT to add GROAN!
Gnarly you mentioned checking the gap at the Rivet end. What are we aiming for here?
YouTube
Last Edited by Grey Owl on Apr 08, 2016 11:46 PM
|
Gnarly
1732 posts
Apr 09, 2016
7:23 AM
|
@Grey Owl There should be some clearance at the rivet pad, but not a lot. I run a shim under the reed up to the pad to make sure there is not too much. If there is, I bring the reed closer to the reed plate. This can especially be an issue with reeds that are riveted to the plate, as opposed to the spot welded Suzuki plates.
One thing I don't hear much about is how the Suzuki reeds can be so much more air tight in this area, due to the way they are attached. Riveting a reed to a plate creates certain amount of distortion, and can lead to airtightness issues.
I like the Special 20 plenty, but they are better if you work on them.
The same can be said for the Suzukis, of course--"You can always improve a harmonica".
|
Piro39
99 posts
Apr 09, 2016
7:34 AM
|
Getting back to my A flat Hammond. I disassembled it and noticed that I had flat sanded the draw plate already and the reeds looked good so I replaced the comb with one of Andrew' combs. This harp now is a great player, the 2 and 3 bends are no longer stiff, they are very easy to hit and it plays as good as any other harp that I have. It was the damn comb.
|
Grey Owl
675 posts
Apr 09, 2016
7:51 AM
|
Thanks Gnarly I'll bear that in mind.
Piro39 I have one Hammond in A that played really well OOTB. OB's there easy bends and no stiffness. Having said that I've decided I'm not a fan of metal combs now. I had a Anthony Dannecker harp for a brief period which had a brass comb and it was a heavy beast that felt good in the hands but no more metal now thanks.
Pleased to hear Andrew sorted you out with a good comb and that it's sorted those stiff bends. Who would have thought a comb would have such an impact.
----------
YouTube
|
harpwrench
1081 posts
Apr 09, 2016
10:01 AM
|
Looking at the pics, I'd say your 3 blow is gapped too wide, and it looks like 3-4-5 draw are too tight-
----------
www.spiersharmonicas.com
Harp repair and upgrade menu
|
Grey Owl
676 posts
Apr 10, 2016
2:53 AM
|
Thanks Joe. That large gap on the problem hole 3 blow and tighter gap on the 3 draw was the only setup I could get which eased off the stiffness of the bends a bit and didn't make it too airy. Believe me I tried every combination I could on those darn reeds all to no avail.
The flat sanding of the draw plate helped a little but the big improvement was the change to the harpmaster comb.
YouTube
|
Killa_Hertz
991 posts
Apr 10, 2016
7:51 AM
|
"Who thought a comb would have such an impact"
Ive found that combs can have a HUGE impact. A good flat comb will transform a harp into an incredible player. Wish they would just come stock this way.
@Owl/Gnarly. Re checking the rivet end gap. I prefer to sight check them like richard sleigh does. Because if you put too big of a guage in there you compound the issue.
Ofcourse in sight checking them you have to take the plates off the comb and view the reveal as you close the reed, with a light underneath. Not exactly as easy as the guage meathod.
Whats your thoughts on this meathod Gnarly? And what size guage do you use?
The guage could also come in handy when trying to shape the reed. When you push the rivet end down too far and have to bring it back out of the slot. To guage if you have it back up enough. It would have to be a very thin one i would think.
Sorry if this is a bit off topic.
----------
|
Grey Owl
678 posts
Apr 10, 2016
8:14 AM
|
I should qualify that what I said Killa was my surprise in connection with the stiff bends problem rather than the overall benefits a flat comb will provide.
I use a 0.05 shim which is the thinnest I have in my shim of feeler gauge set. If it starts to grip about an 1/8 inch from the pad but will continue to push right up to the pad with a little force I am happy. Gnarly's take would be interesting.
As a side issue I remember seeing a video by an italian guy who repeatedly gently pushes down on the reed about a 1/4" from the pad to get the reed closer to the slot at this point. Don't know if this is conventional wisdom or not.
YouTube
Last Edited by Grey Owl on Apr 10, 2016 8:15 AM
|
Gnarly
1733 posts
Apr 10, 2016
8:24 AM
|
I use the shims that come in the anti theft devices attached to merchandise at electronics stores (and other places, other vendors). The thick one is good for supporting reeds when I lower the pitch with solder. The thinner one is perfect for clearing reeds slots and going under the reed near the rivet.
It's not very thick! Stainless steel, I reckon . . .
|
Killa_Hertz
994 posts
Apr 10, 2016
9:10 AM
|
Gnarly .. Yes i use those with the masking tape handle like sleigh. Its a good trick. I use em for slot clearing and supporting while tuning sometimes.
You use this meathod just to check if its too high? Or too low?
@Owl .. Oh I See. Yea i wouldn't have thought that either. I assumed it would help, but i would have thought something else would have been the major cause.
----------
Last Edited by Killa_Hertz on Apr 10, 2016 9:11 AM
|
Gnarly
1734 posts
Apr 10, 2016
11:51 AM
|
I use them without a handle, prefer the control . . .
And they are useful for lots of reed work--first thing is slot clearance, also use them like little scalpels!
And you can check the clearance at the rivet, as well.
|
SuperBee
3587 posts
Apr 10, 2016
3:26 PM
|
Owl, are you able to reset those 3 slot gaps now you are using the HarpmAster comb, or did you leave them as in the photos?
|
MP
3355 posts
Apr 10, 2016
5:33 PM
|
harpwrench has the right answer. '
----------Looking at the pics, I'd say your 3 blow is gapped too wide, and it looks like 3-4-5 draw are too tight-
the first thing I do on weak 3 draws and 3 draw bends is to lower 3 blow at the rivet end a bit and often also at free end. lowering the blow just a touch will increase the volume of three draw and also improve the three bends you get on that hole.
Have good day. M.A.P.
.
|
Gnarly
1736 posts
Apr 10, 2016
5:44 PM
|
Boy, I hate to blame the comb, but he did say that swapping it solved the problem . . .
I don't buy custom combs, but I guess they are good or folks wouldn't be investing in them . . .
|
MP
3358 posts
Apr 10, 2016
5:55 PM
|
MMMM, I'm sure it improved things but look at those reeds Gnarly. 3 blow you could drive a truck though. :-) Oh Well.
----------
Have good day. M.A.P.
.
Last Edited by MP on Apr 10, 2016 5:56 PM
|
Piro39
100 posts
Apr 10, 2016
6:00 PM
|
I have been doing a lot of heavy jazz blues playing lately using Manjis, Promasters and Hammonds and I am reaching the conclusion that perhaps Suzukis need a break in period because the more I play them the easier they play. I haven't experienced this with other brands. I'm not talking about out of the box harps, I work on all my harps. Am I imagining this ??
|
Killa_Hertz
1001 posts
Apr 10, 2016
7:47 PM
|
@MP. I agree. But Owl said he played with the gaping and no matter what he couldn't get it. So idk. But my harps are setup pretty much the way you described above. Those gaps are killer.
Surely the reedplate being warped one way and the comb being warped the other way didnt help. I think it was all just a Cluster F.
@Piro I only have the one Promaster which never played right and i haven't put much time into because of the comb taste. And about 7 Manjis to judge suzuki by. But in my experience with the Manji thus far, they Definitely seem to have a break in period. Atleast to me.
----------
Last Edited by Killa_Hertz on Apr 10, 2016 7:48 PM
|
Gnarly
1738 posts
Apr 10, 2016
8:19 PM
|
Yeah, no argument from me on gapping--reference harpwrench's comment, his word counts for a lot.
|
STME58
1642 posts
Apr 10, 2016
11:47 PM
|
After reading this I took apart my stiff bending promaster tonight. I could see from the gunk trails that there was some leaking across the tines near the openings. There was an area around the root of draw 3 that material had gotten into but it did not go though to the outside of the harp or another chamber. This reminds me of looking at an automotive cylinder head for evidence of leaks. I used a stiff fine emery board to locally flatten the offending areas and used beeswax as a sealant on assembly, torqued the screws lightly and in stages just as one would head bolts, and the harp plays much better. I did not change any reed profiles, centering ot gaps, they all looked pretty good.
I tried to see what flatness is required in order for two metal surfaces to seal air tight. I did not find this information, but I did see that to measure flatness more accurately than you can with a granite surface plate, you use glass! Not just window glass but precision lapped and polished optical glass. You place the surface to be measured on the glass and illuminate it through the glass with monochromatic light, typically from a helium gas light source. Looking through the glass you will then see interference bands showing you a topographic map of the surface with each band at a .0000166" change in height.
Last Edited by STME58 on Apr 10, 2016 11:56 PM
|
Grey Owl
679 posts
Apr 11, 2016
12:38 AM
|
First of all I would like to thank everyone for chipping in here with their interesting observations and experience. It appears I am not the only one to have had this problem, although it is a first for me in all my years of playing.
But a special thanks must go to Andrew for reading the detail outlined in my OP as it related to stiff 3 draw bends, identifying the specific problem and offering me a practical solution which greatly improved the issue. THANKS!
To recap what I did for those who have this problem:-
1. I flat sanded the draw plate as advised by Andrew and because the aluminum comb was too far gone flatness wise (plus I don't like the galvanic reaction) I took up Gnarley's neat suggestion of swapping to another Suzuki comb, in my case a harpmaster ABS recessed type.
2. The gaps I used in the above photos to get some sort of playability having exhausted many, many gapping attempts, had to be changed to conventional gapping SUPERBEE when I fitted them the Harpmaster comb and now it plays so much better though not super easy like my Bb SP20.
In summary this solution is worth a try as it may work for you.
The only other promaster I have is a MR350 valved in C and it is a very fine sounding and playable harp.
EDIT TO ADD:-
I don’t know what you guys who have had similar problems experienced but,
First just to clarify, when I say the bends are stiff I don’t mean that the harp is so leaky you can’t get a grip on the bends because of too much air escaping but quite the opposite. All the bends on 3 draw were not bad in my case but offered so much resistance you really had to muscle the bends which is uncomfortable when going from adjacent holes that respond as you would expect. This was in spite of adjusting the 3 draw closer to or further from the plate and likewise with the 3 blow. In the end I had to use the unlikely gaps on the photo just to ease off the stiffness without it getting too airy and it wasn’t very satisfactory.
Raising the gap of 3 draw too much (beyond what was shown in the photo.) resulted in an airy draw. The closer the gap on the blow reed the worse it got as regards stiffness. In fact the feel of the normal 3 blow right up to my ‘excessive’ gapping felt as if there was pressure resistance on the reed as if you had set it up tight to choke easily for an OB. I simply could not find any happy medium which is not a problem I have encountered before when working on any of my harps.
Both 3 draw and blow plinked well and produced strong notes when inhaling the reed plates off the comb and the reed tolerance at the pad end of the rivet was good. The reeds were centred in the slots in spite of 3 blow appearing out of alignment which was due to the camera angle.
YouTube
Last Edited by Grey Owl on Apr 11, 2016 7:25 AM
|
1847
3365 posts
Apr 12, 2016
8:39 AM
|
|
Grey Owl
684 posts
Apr 12, 2016
9:15 AM
|
Where do you get that stuff?
YouTube
|
1847
3370 posts
Apr 12, 2016
11:46 AM
|
that is out of a flight data recorder... a "black box"
this is classified information, i told you, now i have to have you killed.
----------
.
|
Grey Owl
687 posts
Apr 12, 2016
11:50 AM
|
:) Ta!
----------
YouTube
|
Piro39
101 posts
Apr 12, 2016
8:38 PM
|
To continue this Suzuki Promaster thread. I just received a new set of Ab Promaster reed plates from Rockin' Ron, I sanded the draw plate and installed them on a Promaster aluminum comb that I had and it was, as usual, very leaky especially in the 2 and 3 hole bends. I than reinstalled in on a comb by Andrew Zajac and there is no comparison. Played beautifully with easy 2 and 3 hole bends. This is very consistent in my comparison test, I have about 12 A flat harps and I compare them to each other all with after market combs and have come to the conclusion that the Suzuki aluminum combs are not FLAT, I also find that there are problems sometimes with the Manji combs. Once in a while I find one out of the box that is very playable so Mr. Suzuki please flatten your combs seeing how expensive they are because we deserve better and by the way I really like your harps once I remedy your problem. ON another subject Mr. Suzuki, please fix the layout of your natural minor tuned harps. I know Gary has to retune the 6 and 7draw so they are in the correct layout.
Last Edited by Piro39 on Apr 13, 2016 6:56 AM
|
