WoozleEffect
20 posts
Dec 26, 2016
3:10 PM
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I am deferring to the wisdom of the forum...
I'm looking at a couple of options.
I especially want something that will work equally well on brass or stainless steel reeds.
1. Proxxon Model Building and Engraving Set
https://goo.gl/Xa5uNR
$117 CAD
2. Dremel 3000 Kit
https://goo.gl/eZIjjL
$120 CAD
3. Dremel 8200 Cordless
https://goo.gl/TPyJMn
$140 CAD
All 3 appear to have variable speeds.
I'm also looking for recommendations for appropriate engraving or de-burring bits.
Cheers!
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Rob Laferrière
Russell, MB, Canada
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Brendan Power
548 posts
Dec 26, 2016
6:12 PM
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Dremel is a good brand, as is Proxxon. I assume you're intending to use silicone polishing discs? That's what I use for tuning, the Proxxon 28-294 ones:
http://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/tools_polishing.php?list
The main thing is to have no wobble in the spindle, and both brands will give you that. For quick fine tuning this little battery engraver is very good:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Beadsmith-Battery-powered-Micro-Engraver-for-metal-glass-wood-ceramics-/130588343060?hash=item1e67abfb14:g:-LwAAOSwpDdVEZX3
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Killa_Hertz
2035 posts
Dec 26, 2016
7:23 PM
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Well if you want it just for tuning. I would recommend you go MUCH cheaper.
I have a dremel. They are great and I use it a ton, but .... for tuning i user a cheap little General Engraver from home Depot. Like this one.
http://relipro.com/general-tools-505-precision-engraver/?utm_medium=googleshopping&utm_source=bc&gclid=Cj0KEQiAnIPDBRC7t5zJs4uQu5UBEiQA7u5Ne0meIVD_M6KUaEbEky19KlZFZEJS-O3Xopoq8j4fYwgaAith8P8HAQ
Also you can get cheap dremel style kits from Harbor Freight for around $20. It will do just fine on your harp stuff.
Last Edited by Killa_Hertz on Dec 26, 2016 7:25 PM
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Chris L
157 posts
Dec 26, 2016
8:07 PM
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Check Canadian Tire for the "General" fine diamond tip rotary engraver. Regular price is about $18 but once in a while they go on for $12. It is light and takes 2 AA batteries. Found a different brand at Princess Auto for about the same. It has a larger tip, which removes metal and tunes faster, but the fine tip is better in my opinion.
I also have a dremel, but find it way too cumbersome by comparison!
For deburring brass I find the security tab shims work just fine, although rarely I will use a Jeweler's file like you would use for tuning.
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dchurch
87 posts
Dec 26, 2016
11:22 PM
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Woozle,
I agree with KHz, the General battery pencil does a fine job for tuning (but that’s honestly about it).
I have a Praxxon and a couple of Dremels and the General. I personally prefer using the General for simple reed tuning. It is light, easy to hold and has a simple momentary power switch that can be conveniently activated with your index finger. It’s not a high quality tool but I consider it to be a proper tool for the job.
The Dremel tools are fine. The two I have are older than what you are looking at.
I am a fan of rechargeable tools when portability is important. It might be important to you here because the power cord can throw off the tool’s balance during delicate work. It’s worth considering if tuning is going to be the primary use.
If I was shopping for a cordless multi-tool I would also take a good look at Bosch and Milwaukee. They make excellent cordless tools.
I don’t have personal experience with the Proxxon FBS 115/E. But I have owned a Proxxon Pro model IBS/E for about 7 years and have used it for hundreds of hours in commercial production work. It is a solid and very precise tool. I highly recommend it especially if you prefer quality tools that are built to last and for heavier jobs than just tuning reeds.
The Proxxon Pro model is currently on sale for $119.25 (USD)
http://shop.prox-tech.com/c/hand-held-power-tools-115-v_professional-rotary-tool-ibs-e
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It's about time I got around to this.
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Killa_Hertz
2038 posts
Dec 27, 2016
12:02 AM
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I would also like to add that I buy all quality tools. Ive worked in construction my whole life and i dont waste time on cheap tools.
Having said that, almost ALL of my harmonica tools are cheap ... lol. But seriously its not like your really beating them up by working on delicate harmonica reeds and such. And also because i end up bending, grinding, or in some other way .. modifying them to better suit my purpose ... so no need buying expensive stuff just to ruin it.
I also have a screwdriver and pick set made by General. This is great for harps. I use the picks for alot of things. Cleaning out gunk, shaping reeds, or just getting one unstuck until i have time to take the covers off. Again, i wouldnt be caught dead buying something like this normally, but ... for harps its great.
DChurch. I agree, for anything other than tuning. .. that little general is junk. But its gold for tuning. Lightweight, easy to manipulate.
I think even with the dremel pen attachment, you would still have to fight it a bit too tune with it. Just my 2 cents.
Another great thing for tuning is jewelry files and sanding wands. If you don't have any of those.
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Kingley
4062 posts
Dec 27, 2016
12:36 AM
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Unless you're working on tuning harps a lot like the top customisers are. I think buying any rotary tool just for that job is a complete waste of money. How many harps do you think you'll be tuning every month? If it were me, I'd just invest in a decent file, some sanding wands, a good reed scraping tool and just do them by hand. It's not a long winded process and more often than not using hand tools is far more accurate.
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florida-trader
1064 posts
Dec 27, 2016
5:49 AM
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Go to eBay.
Search for "Pro Manicure Pedicure Electric Nail File"
You will find tools ranging from less than $25 to about $50.
They have variable speed. Reversable. Foot control on-off pedal.
Most Dremmel style bits will fit.
Been using something like this for a couple of years.
Works like a charm.
I tune 20-30 sets of reed plates a week.
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Tom Halchak
www.BlueMoonHarmonicas.com
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JustFuya
1018 posts
Dec 27, 2016
7:28 AM
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I don't know your experience level with powered hand tools so I'll add that you should practice control on scrap before trying something serious.
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Killa_Hertz
2040 posts
Dec 27, 2016
8:50 AM
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Nice Tom! Good call.
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dchurch
88 posts
Dec 27, 2016
9:52 AM
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Woozle,
As usual you are getting great feedback here. x2 on the Jeweler's file.
And if you are simply making fine adjustments to keep reeds in tune, as appose to re-tuning with half step jumps… you can simply use a sharp hardened blade to scrape away a tiny bit of metal. This method works great on brass reeds and reasonably well on stubborn metals.
I use a scalpel, just like this $3.40 set, which includes a #15 blade and #3 handle: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-STERILE-SURGICAL-BLADES-12-15-WITH-FREE-SCALPEL-KNIFE-HANDLE-3-/131842010979?hash=item1eb2656f63:g:4RcAAOSwQupXV6qD
Or, #16 “X-acto” blades.
I carry the scalpel in my travel tool kit, along with a jeweler’s file (not the General).
The scalpel has amazing quality for the price (inexpensive, not cheap). I use them extensively for building and restoring bamboo fly rods. IMO, The #15 blade is the best size and profile for reed work.
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It's about time I got around to this.
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Frank101
204 posts
Dec 28, 2016
10:56 AM
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Lee Oskar harmonica tool kit + manual $31.49 US. All you need, unless you're frequently doing extensive tuning adjustments.
Last Edited by Frank101 on Dec 28, 2016 10:58 AM
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WoozleEffect
21 posts
Dec 29, 2016
1:04 PM
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The advice so far has been amazing, thank you!
I have a simple corded Dremel right now that will do the trick for most things, but it's lack of variable speed, and general weight make it feel rather clumsy to me.
I like the idea of using a little pen engraver for quick touch ups, and some light de-burring when swapping out reeds. Definitely cheaper, and very light weight. Easy to throw in a bag for quick reed-swap & retune up on the road.
Thanks, Brendan, fore the advice regarding the type of polishing disks for the dremel or proxxon.
This is what I was looking at: https://goo.gl/sa1M9n
I am hoping to do a fair bit of my own re-tuning and maintenance, but I also do a lot of guitar customizing and found-object guitar building, so the tools come in handy often.
I bought Andrew Zajac's full kit, and it's been working great!
Now I just need to discover a cleaner way to cut long even strips of rubber off of used/blown bicycle tire tubes. I've been half-valving my harps with this and it works great. I'm not sure yet if it's as good as the PT Gazel method material, but so far they both seem to react in a similar way. Only time will tell how they hold up.
Cheers, and thanks!
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Rob Laferrière
Russell, MB, Canada
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mlefree
796 posts
Dec 30, 2016
7:42 AM
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In addition to Hering and Oskar tool kits and a bunch of Grobet Swiss jeweler's files I have a succession of rotary tools including various Dremels, nail polishers (though not as nice as the ones Tom suggests), an inexpensive tool I got from Greg Jones (Seydel) and a cheap battery-powered rotary engraver. In my own quest for the best tuning tool for my purposes these have all given way to a Proxxon Micromot 50 EF Rotary Tool.
Micromot 50 EF
I've added the separate, required power supply and an extremely useful foot switch. The tool itself is a lot bigger than one of the smaller rotary engravers or nail polisher but it is so well balanced and such a quality tool in terms of its power, precision spindle, and real chuck that it is just a plum pleasure to use. It features all very high-quality components and is built to stand abuse in a production environment. I just love features like the too-long supplied cords that provide extraordinary flexibility. Not to mention the fact that I've never even had the motor get warm.
I find the Proxxon very convenient and effective even for litmus test type work like precision tuning of tiny, delicate high-end brass reeds. I use jewelry polishing pins as suggested by Greg. The 2 mm diameter size is perfect for reed work. They come in varying grits and can be quickly resharpened on a piece of sandpaper. I use the polyurethane ones as the silicone ones tend to slip inside the tiny arbor they're held in. I get mine at Rio Grand.
Dedeco Polyurethane 2mm Polishing Pin Kit
The Proxxon sits cradled on the power supply on my bench, ready for a host of other tasks outside my harmonica work. It is one of the most welcome additions to my workbench. Short of a Foredom rotary shaft tool, which for me would be the ultimate, this Proxxon setup has ended my quest.
Michelle
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SilverWing Leather - Custom leather creations for musicians and other eccentrics.
Last Edited by mlefree on Dec 30, 2016 7:47 AM
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1847
3920 posts
Dec 30, 2016
8:18 AM
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well that looks interesting. what type of plug is on the power supply?
i have 12 volt supplies around here, it would be a shame to buy the additional power supply if i have one already. thanks
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mlefree
797 posts
Dec 30, 2016
12:28 PM
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It's a special proprietary power supply with an unusual plug, 1847. It was a pill for me to swallow too, so I looked for an alternative as well. But in the end I bit the bullet and wouldn't think twice about doing it again. The Proxxon PS is very beefy and like the rest of their tools is of industrial quality.
Michelle
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SilverWing Leather - Custom leather creations for musicians and other eccentrics.
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1847
3921 posts
Dec 30, 2016
1:05 PM
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any chance it looks like this?
https://pix.sfly.com/w38TNm
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mlefree
799 posts
Dec 31, 2016
2:51 AM
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Unfortunately, no,1847. Here's a pic' of the tool itself showing the proprietary 3-prong plug.
Proxxon rotary tool handset
Michelle
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SilverWing Leather - Custom leather creations for musicians and other eccentrics.
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barbequebob
3338 posts
Dec 31, 2016
8:32 AM
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The one I use was one that the now defunct site F & R Farrell used to sell (can't remember the brand name but maybe I'll find it sometime) that was given to me by a now deceased harp player friend of mine who gave up trying to tweak his harps out of frustration and it works well. It's idiot proof simple with an on-off switch that when in the off position, instead of sliding the switch, you squeeze it and it only works as long as it's squeezed, which is great and had several different tips for it and I always use the very finest bit possible and works great on brass but even better for stainless steel.
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Sincerely,
Barbeque Bob Maglinte
Boston, MA
http://www.barbequebob.com
CD available at http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/bbmaglinte
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snowman
233 posts
Jan 02, 2017
10:31 AM
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I use the engraver made by 'general' as well-- I use a very small engraving bit---small is the key word for me---
Tend to agree with killer--Its easy to control and I only use it for tuning
I use it when I want to come up or down in tuning and I have to go more than [8- 12 Cents]-basically when its way sharp or flat.
When close to what I want, I switch to the 6" sanding wands [spring loaded] and try to mellow out what the engraver did-
Side point when using the 'general' KEEP IT MOVING AROUND THE REED-OR YOU'LL DIG A WHOLE IN THE REED---finish the tune with a file,sanding stick or polish wheel, whichever works for u.
i THINK LEARNING TO at LEAST TUNE A HARP IS CRUCIAL--Harps are not $6 any more
The 'R Sleigh' draw scraper is very handy as well-especially for reeds that r sharp
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harpwrench
1107 posts
Jan 02, 2017
11:41 AM
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You probably won't see rotary tools used for tuning on any Filisko guild, Harrison or my harps unless someone else has been in there after the fact. I never have anyway and I've handled many. A draw scraper and a file in the right hands is much faster, precise and least damaging to brass reeds. FWIW if the reed profiles have been set to a high level, a really great way to ruin all that work is to go after it with a dremel or whatever, especially for large cent jumps. Brass will distort with the heat and hump up towards it, in the worst possible area of the reed for that to happen. A real treat to fix after a customer has let someone else tune a harp. Sanding wands will flatten out profiles and whack the gaps, so that's high risk as well.
Last Edited by harpwrench on Jan 02, 2017 6:13 PM
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