jasonL
29 posts
Nov 13, 2010
9:08 PM
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I know a while back someone mentioned that you can tape the head to the stick so it doesn't rotate in your hands.
Then someone else said not to since it closes off the ports which prevent the mic element from blowing out over time.
So the question is... If I look really closely at the little black screens right at the base of the spinning grill. there are small solid metal pieces as well as open parts. If I tape just where the solid metal parts are does anyone out there know if this would not blow out the element?
or any other ideas about how to stop the thing from spinning.
Any thoughts would help thanks.
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Kyzer Sosa
868 posts
Nov 13, 2010
11:08 PM
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greg heumann sells a bulletizer that A. fixes the spinnin head issue and B. makes the 57 a whole new creature...
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Kyzer's Travels
Kyzer's Artwork
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Mojokane
148 posts
Nov 13, 2010
11:19 PM
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I'm a believer in improvisation. Don't get me wrong, this is a bit over the top. See if you can micro manage a very small amount of JB Weld, or something else...perhaps a two part epoxy.
Be careful not to fill the wrong spaces. Use a Starbuck stir stick, or a tooth pick.
It should be able to be re-opened anytime in the future with a blow torch...just kiddin..
As long as it is used sparingly, it will do the job.
You don't want to "seal it" tight. You only want to stop it from spinning.
I hope that helps.
Or call Greg Heumann.
Keep Harpin!
Last Edited by on Nov 14, 2010 1:29 AM
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rharley5652
261 posts
Nov 14, 2010
12:19 AM
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I'm with Mojokane on this ,.a couple/3 dabs of super-glue spaced around @ the small metal Grille piece an the plastic grille should do ya (SEE PIC)
The SM 57 an the 545 grille are made same/close <>
BUT after you do this lil trick ,..don't twist the grille or you may break the fine wires inside <>
Heres the fine wire I'm talking about<>
If you use force an twist to hard the element could rotate .
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Simply Unique Kustom Mic's By Rharley
Last Edited by on Jan 09, 2011 12:26 AM
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jasonL
30 posts
Nov 14, 2010
6:47 AM
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THanks folks. I will give it a go. I am avoiding the bulletizer for now. ALthough it looks like a great product I am using the mic for several different things during my set and need it without the attachment.
and I really appreciate you taking the time to post pictures. It helps a lot.
Last Edited by on Nov 14, 2010 6:47 AM
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Greg Heumann
883 posts
Nov 14, 2010
10:16 AM
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Note that the grill spins for a reason. The actual element, as shown in rharley's post, is suspended inside the cartridge on a fairly elaborate system of rubber mounts. It doesn't touch the outside. This reduces "conventional" handling noise ("thumping") from ANYWHERE on the mic. Fixing the head to the element can reduce the "clicking" noise, but it will also INCREASE the regular handling noise or "thumping". AND it exposes the element to higher risk of damage via breaking those fine wires. (The element is kept from rotating at the bottom where those fine wires are soldered to the solder lugs used for the internal connection to the transformer. Once you glue the element to the grill, twisting the grill will stretch and break those wires in short order and they are a BITCH to fix.
I offer a "grill lock" option on my Ultimate 57's and 545's - I use cyanoacrylate glue - 4 drops, 90 degrees apart, from head to body across the metal screen. To keep it from getting too thin and/or wicking inside to do some damage I spray it with cure accelerator. I always try to talk customers out of it first, but if they KNOW why they want it and what the trade-offs are I'm happy to do it.
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/Greg
Last Edited by on Nov 14, 2010 10:21 AM
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rharley5652
262 posts
Nov 14, 2010
11:01 AM
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@ Greg,.the bottom line regardless,. if you use Super Glue or cyanoacrylate glue,.those fine wires will break if you twist the Grille to far <> What ever glue you use ,.DON'T Twist the Grille<.
"Fixing the head to the element can reduce the "clicking" noise, but it will also INCREASE the regular handling noise or "thumping"."
This is true,.it's as if the whole Mic become the element,.but if used in a mic holder that noise can be reduced,.
@ Jason,.if you need a mic holder,.I have a few ,.I'll send ya one no charge,.Just pay shipping,.
E-me <>
Here are some shots of the fine wires soldered to the solder lugs which can break anywhere along their run,.as Greg says once broke they are a BITCH to repair <>
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Simply Unique Kustom Mic's By Rharley
Last Edited by on Jan 09, 2011 12:26 AM
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Harpengr
10 posts
Nov 14, 2010
12:58 PM
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I went to an automotive store and bought 2 o-rings which fills the gap between the grill and body. Why would this harm the mic over time?
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Greg Heumann
884 posts
Nov 14, 2010
1:24 PM
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@rharley - yes, I know - I did say that.
@harpengr: Sealing off that gap with an o-ring or tape won't hurt the mic. However it WILL change its directional characteristics reducing its feedback resistance, and probably changes the tone as well. Note that if you hand-hold the mic, all bets are off anyway as far as directionality characteristics designed into the mic.
As Kyzer suggested, the Bulletizer is mounted to the barrel portion of the cartridge below that vent ring - so it prevents you from touching the head of the mic and eliminates the clicking. If you use a Bulletizer there's no need to lock the grill.
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/Greg
Last Edited by on Nov 14, 2010 1:26 PM
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Joe_L
828 posts
Nov 14, 2010
1:44 PM
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I grab the barrel of the mic avoiding the spinning grill. There isn't any need to grab the grill unless you have really tiny hands.
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The Blues Photo Gallery
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jasonL
31 posts
Nov 14, 2010
7:12 PM
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Thanks again for this latest round of info. It is really an honour to get such good feedback from folks with as much experience as you all.
Based on feedback...I am thinking that maybe if I glue 3 small supports with very low profiles evenly spaced out around the mic attached to the stick that extend across the gaps for the ports (like a bridge) to the rotating grill cap. Then I don't risk getting glue inside the mic, I don't block any of the ports and if I do torque on the grill it shouldn't put any rotational pressure on the element but just the outside of the stick and not those wires in the element.
I may do a test with tape and the 3 bridges to see if the whole mic becomes too hot to handle, cause I need to handle it.
Greg, one of these days I will be able to afford your mic conversion and I look forward to it with volume control and all the bells and whistles but for now I need to make do with what I have.
Thanks again one and all.
J
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Shaking Reed Drew
3 posts
Nov 15, 2010
4:38 AM
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i have the same mic, I ended up drawing some cad files and getting a machinist to turn a plastic sleeve which is inserted over the mic head as pictured.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/32690749@N02/3052666202/
i then wrapped some raquet grip around that it never slips out of the hand - so the end result is...
- i have a thicker mic no cramps
- easier cupping - no leaks and lots of low end!
- the grill is untouched and wont twist at all
- the mic is unchanged and if i needed to sell it, it remains unmodified out of the box
s.r.d.
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rharley5652
269 posts
Nov 15, 2010
3:46 PM
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@ Shaking Reed Drew,...SWEET !! Got your self a winner there !!!
Give it a name an sales should be good for ya ,.
I'm sure harp players with that style Mic SM57-545 would like how light & compact it is ,.
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Simply Unique Kustom Mic's By Rharley
Last Edited by on Nov 15, 2010 3:51 PM
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Greg Heumann
889 posts
Nov 15, 2010
9:29 PM
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Nice, Shaking...
Add an extension forward to build an acoustic chamber for better cupped sound and a bigger diameter for a more comfortable grip.... and you have a Bulletizer!
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/Greg
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Shaking Reed Drew
4 posts
Nov 16, 2010
1:42 AM
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lol, notice that i had uploaded my pic on November 18, 2008, i dont think the bullitiser was out then - its obvious great minds think alike! i did see the bullitizer when advertised and had wondered how much difference in acoustics between the two...
i do alot of design work & wish i had more time for tinkering, so I'm jealous, and impressed with all of your mods too...
you and me could put our heads together...
i have invented a reed adjusting tool also and am considering producing them... tick tock...
Last Edited by on Nov 16, 2010 1:44 AM
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jasonL
32 posts
Nov 16, 2010
6:15 PM
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Thanks again everyone!
I improvised a working solution and I'll see how it works over time.
THanks again.
J
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rharley5652
279 posts
Nov 18, 2010
12:39 PM
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What was your improvised working solution ?
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Simply Unique Kustom Mic's By Rharley
Last Edited by on Nov 18, 2010 12:39 PM
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jasonL
33 posts
Nov 18, 2010
10:44 PM
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I built an improvised cup over the mic to keep my hands off the spinning part and not worry about gluing anything or risking the wires.
Thanks again to all you folks that chipped in.
J
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didjcripey
12 posts
Nov 18, 2010
11:41 PM
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A bit late, but here's my two cents worth; (bit more like a dollar really): as far as I know the purpose of the grill is to allow sound in behind and to the side of the element; that is what gives the mic a cardioid rather than omnidirectional pickup pattern. It also can assist in canceling out some of the room noise (check out an electrovoice 606 for early experiments with this idea, the 606 was 'designed for noisy environments'). Vibrations (pressure) from ambient noise hits both the front and back of the diaphragm and cancel each other out to a degree, giving sound originating immediately from the front of the mic more effect.
As Greg said though; if you're cupping it then all bets are off.
My point is that I don't believe the grill has anything to do with preventing the element blow out over time as has been suggested and so if the spinning grill really bothers you go ahead and tape it, it would be the same as cupping it anyway.
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Lucky Lester
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jasonL
35 posts
Nov 19, 2010
12:00 AM
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Thanks, every bit helps and never too late.
J
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rharley5652
280 posts
Nov 19, 2010
12:42 AM
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Her ya go Jason,..the whole scoop on your grille lock down,. right from Shure:
Option 1
Occasionally, an SM57 may develop an audible rattle when the microphone is shaken vigorously. The noise may be reduced or eliminated by inserting a small piece of acoustic foam (such as used in the 55SH Series II grill) between the SM57 grill housing and the black metal screen.
Use a bright light to locate one of the four flat areas beneath the screen. Carefully insert the foam piece between the grill frame and screen. Push it in until no longer visible. If necessary, repeat using one of the other flat areas.
The addition of this foam does not degrade the SM57 frequency response or polar pattern. Contact Shure Applications Engineering at 800-516-2525 or 847-600-8440 to obtain small squares of the acoustic foam.
Option 2 The Glue Option !
You will need a toothpick and Duco Cement (available from a hardware store). Locate the black metal screen that is 1.25" below the SM57 grill. This screen is right below the band that says "Shure" and "SM57". In a strong light, look carefully through the screen. You will see four bright areas that are just below the screen. Each of these areas is 90 degrees apart from the next area. These four areas are the glue targets.
Stand the microphone upside down on its grill. Put a small dab of cement (the size of a pin head) on the toothpick. Place the cement on the first area. Let the cement flow downward and get between the black screen and the rotating plastic grill. Repeat for the remaining three areas. Let the cement dry thoroughly, then break off the length of toothpick that is not required.
This technique should stop the rattling. Use the cement sparingly.
***Never cover up this black screen with duct tape as this will destroy the SM57 directionality.***
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Simply Unique Kustom Mic's By Rharley
Last Edited by on Nov 19, 2010 12:43 AM
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didjcripey
13 posts
Nov 19, 2010
1:27 AM
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'Never cover up this black screen with duct tape as this will destroy the SM57 directionality'
I doubt if whether the directionality is cardiod or unidirectional matters when the mic is properly cupped, it behaves as a unidirectional mic as the sound only enters from one direction. Cupping must have the same effect as covering up the screen.
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Lucky Lester
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MN
18 posts
Nov 19, 2010
2:06 AM
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Before you try the glue option, try this: Take a thick rubber band and wrap it around the mic a few times so that it fills in that gap.
This A) keeps the head from spinning, and B) makes it a little easier to hang onto when your hands get sweaty.
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MN
19 posts
Nov 19, 2010
2:08 AM
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BTW, remove the rubber band after each gig or it'll get funky like old rubber bands do and leave sticky goo all over your nice mic.
Last Edited by on Nov 19, 2010 2:08 AM
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Harpengr
12 posts
Nov 19, 2010
3:50 AM
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Try the big o-rings I talked about above. They are black easy to put on and take off and don't rot and get funky like rubber bands.
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Greg Heumann
896 posts
Nov 19, 2010
9:08 AM
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yes, covering that area will change the directional response. Yes, picking up a mic and holding in your hand will change the directional response also. Yes, an O-ring is a much cooler solution than a rubber band.
If you want to glue, use medium CA glue and accelerator spray. 1 drop between grill and barrel across screen every 90 degrees. Spray before it all wicks inside.
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/Greg
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