I've got a flat reed on my g harp that I'd like to try to tune up. I've ordered a replacement harp, so I figure it can't hurt to try tuning the bad one and see how I do. Can anybody recommend which or which kind of file to get? There are lots of options for jewelers files on Amazon.
To be honest, to get started, an Exacto knife is a good choice. I bought some miniature files at Michael's that work great--but lately, I have been using Shofu Brownies (a dental bit recommended by Mike Easton) and sanding wands (available from Micro-Mark).
you can also use sanding detailers, which are a little safer than metal instruments to get started (less chance of damaging the reed or removing too much metal at once).
For instance: https://www.etsy.com/listing/175553289/24-piece-sanding-detailer-kit-with-extra =========== Winslow
I use a micro engraver from Harbor Freight. I think it was like $9 and it seems to work really well. I also have a cheap set of files I picked up at Michael's, but I like the engraver a lot better.
I've used the exacto knife, sanding sticks, mini files, a dremel, and emory boards. I recommend the emory boards.
Exactos slip on me. Sanding sticks are too big. Mini files are not aggressive enough, so it becomes hard to hear the change. A dremel (or engraver) works very well, but it is easy to slip and kill the reed. So I like the emory board.
They are super easy to get ahold of, efficient but not aggressive, and forgiving. I used one today, it was perfect. I put a very thin brass sheet under the reed in question, and gently move the board across the reed, being careful to keep it flat.
I use the small blade on a Spartan Swiss Army knife to do my reeds. Works great. I've also modified the tweezers to use as a reed lifter/plinker tool. Love using this because it means I can work on harps anywhere. I also use a tuner app on my phone.
Because I didn't know what type of file was suitable, years ago I bought files which were being sold by people in the harp business. the one I bought from Seydel is a flat file made by F. Dick. It's a decent file but I find it's a little too aggressive on brass. I save it for steel. The file Richard Sleigh recommends for tuning is a 3-square Grobet, Swiss pattern. I don't recall the grade but I'm sure the info is somewhere on Richard's site or the hotrod harmonica site. I like that file and use it on brass reeds. I've tuned thousands of reeds with it. I use manicure sanding wands. They have fairly fine grit on a plastic film, two sided. They have a foam core. They're not totally rigid and as they wear down I snip them with sidecutters to get a fresh patch. These things last me quite a long time, when I'm with 10 cents or so of the target I'll put the file down and break out the sanding stick. Unless I got lucky and hit the target pitch with the file. On the fixed end I'm more likely to scrape the reed than file it. A rotary tool seems attractive but I still haven't bothered to replace the one I wore out. Not many available in stores here and Dremel seems like overkill.
Last Edited by SuperBee on Aug 31, 2017 9:41 PM
I’m going to do you guys a big favor. I have used everything that has been listed on this page. They all work. If you are only going to tune one or two sets of reed plates, then any of them will do. However, if you plan to do lots of harps – perhaps all your own harps and maybe even some for your friends, then I am going to turn you on to the very best system I have found.
Are you ready?
First, go to eBay. Copy and paste the following into the search window.
“Electric Nail File Drill Manicure Machine Art Acrylic Pedicure Tool Set Kit Bits”
You will find an assortment of rotary tools used by manicurists to polish nails – some for as little as $22.95. It is similar to other rotary tools like a Dremmel but way better. It will have at least 8 variable speeds (up to 30,000 rpm), the ability to reverse the direction of the rotation and a foot control switch. The bits just slide in - you don’t have to tighten them with a wrench. And the wand is much lighter and easier to control. Almost like a fat pen.
Next, go to www.dedeco.com and search for “Polyurethane Polishing Pins”. Or, if you want to be more specific, search for “Item 7852”. It will cost you $31.95. You get an assortment of 2mm Polyurethane Polishing Pins and two collets.
I usually use the rotary too set on a medium speed, like 4 out of 8 on my tool. I use the Black or Blue Medium Grit Polishing Pins. One pin will last for about 50 or more harps. I’ve had the rotary tool for about 3 years. Even though it is inexpensive and from China, I’ve had zero problems with it. I have used the Shofu Brownie with this tool and still do on occasion but two things I dislike about the Brownie Points is that they spray a residue (dust) all over the plate which creates the potential for particles getting stuck in between the reeds and the slots. Second is that that they don’t last 1/10 as long as the Polyurethane Polishing Pins. There is simply no comparison. Another great thing about the polishing pins is that it allows for very precise removal of material. I like to polish the center of the reeds at the base or the tip. If you use a tool that comes into contact with the edge of the reed – like a sanding wand or even the Shofu Brownie, you risk creating a burr on the edge of the reed which can then snag on the inside edge of the reed slot. The Polishing Pins are thinner than the reed plate is wide so you can polish the center and not touch the edges of the reed.
I have turned several of my customizer buddies on to this system. They all love it. For an investment of about $60 +/- shipping, you have a tool that will last you for years and 100’s of harps.
---------- Tom Halchak www.BlueMoonHarmonicas.com
Last Edited by florida-trader on Sep 01, 2017 7:46 AM
I checked Richard Sleigh's kit, and here is what he includes for a tuning file:
'Grobet Swiss pattern 3 square file (triangular file with all sides the same) This is one of the finest files made in the world and the 0 cut gives you the option of taking a small amount off with light pressure or progressively larger amounts of brass off with more pressure.'
Richard Sleigh is one of the guys I turned on to the Nail Polisher and Polyurethane Polishing bits. The times, they are a'changin'. ---------- Tom Halchak www.BlueMoonHarmonicas.com
Florida Trader, the “Electric Nail File Drill Manicure Machine Art Acrylic Pedicure Tool Set Kit Bits” and www.dedeco.com Item 7852 are no longer available. Suggest an alternate?
Last Edited by Tom Daigon on May 27, 2019 9:06 PM
Also - if you search for Dedeco Polishing Pin or Dedeco Mandrel on eBay you will find the polishing pins. If you go to dedeco.com, you can buy them directly from the manufacturer.
Also, another popular option for tuning are Shofu Brownies. They make a lot of different tips. You want Shofu Brownie Polishers HP PC2. --------- Tom Halchak Blue Moon Harmonicas
Special 20 reeds are no different from Marine Bands or any other Hohner. You can use the tools that you posted links to. If you want. I think some guys prefer the diamond tip engraving or grinding tools. They will work for you.
I don't use that particular tool. I do use a diamond tip on occasion to touch up the blow plate after the reed plates are mounted on the comb.
I have been in business for just about 10 years and tune about 100+ reed plates a month, so you take my advice or leave it. Your choice. ---------- Tom Halchak Blue Moon Harmonicas
Im considering all the data that Ive collected from you and several other long time harp techs before I make my final decision. I like to measure many and cut once when I spend money ;)
I use my machine quite a bit in both steel and brass reeds. Very rarely a diamond tip is handy. Mainly for signing my work. The other time I use a diamond tip is when approaching a reed from behind ie through the slot Otherwise, I would never use a diamond burr to tune a reed.
So what tip do you use on brass reeds SuperBee? And what size is it? Never mind, I just read above you dont use them :)
Last Edited by Tom Daigon on May 29, 2019 1:44 PM
Commonly I use the finest sanding drum I can get. I don’t doubt the dental tools like the shofu are a good approach but I just had a lot of sanding drums on hand and I found them to do the job in a quite acceptable way. I have tried with various diamond tips but I think they are usually more aggressive and difficult to work with. I like to spread the abrasion out over the reed, rather than gouge divots. I also found the diamond bits would wear down relatively quickly and it was hard to develop a good feel for how much material I was removing. I expect the bits Tom is recommending are far superior in that way, and better than the drums I use, as they would retain the same degree of abrasiveness even as they wear down. The drums do get smoother as they wear but I find it fairly easy to judge.
I ended up getting this from Micromart since it is successfully used by 2 veteran harp techs I have great respect for. Since it will be used just to maintain my personal stable of harps, I feel it was the right choice for me.
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