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Dirty-South Blues Harp forum: wail on! > Taping for switchcraft
Taping for switchcraft
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messy ventura
109 posts
Dec 27, 2013
9:30 AM
I've acquirred 3 turner +2 shells that I had shaved by my machinist friend. However, he does not have the 3/8-32 tap as it seems to be a rare size. He suggested drilling a bigger hole and using just the nut on the switchcraft connector to hold it in place. This is my 1st build but I'm guessing the hole needs to be threaded for grounding contact and also it appears to be the main stress point when the cable is connected.So I'm thinkin tapping the hole is a must. Am I correct in this ascertation ? I'm not looking to become another "mic seller guy " cuz I really don't have the expertise other than in painting/airbrushing the shells. I also have some Jt 30 RH's that need their cheezy connector threads chased with the 3/8-32 tap/die. So where is the best place I can purchase the proper tap/die for this and other projects and am I on the right track ?
Kingley
3339 posts
Dec 27, 2013
9:37 AM
I'd have thought that ebay would be a good place to start looking. Other than that maybe ask Greg Heumann where he get's his from. As to whether or not the shell on the Turners need to be threaded, I'm no expert so I couldn't say for certain. I'd imagine though that the nut would make a decent enough connection as long as the paint is cleaned off first in that area. I'd also add some Loctite to it to make sure it's doesn't come undone. My best advice would be to shoot Greg an email and ask his advice. He's the expert when it comes to this kind of stuff.
Greg Heumann
2528 posts
Dec 27, 2013
10:07 AM
The problem with a nut is that the inside surface of your shell is curved so it is hard to get it tight enough to hold the connector securely. The shell itself may also be thick enough as to not allow enough thread engagement - the curvature doesn't help there either. And the thickness of the box wrench or socket you use on the nut will cause ITS sides to contact the shell so you can't get full(or even any) engagement on the nut, forcing you to use inferior tools to try to tighten the damn thing. tapping is the best as long as the cross section of the shell there is as thick as the nut or thicker.

You can buy both the tap and the die at a supplier like MSC Industrial - however they're not gonna be cheap! Running the die over the connector in a JT30RH won't work unless you first remove the connector and then have a way to hold it - because the die won't go down far enough if you don't.

I perform all of these services. I have made the investment in the tools required to do the job right. Just contact me offline if you want to pursue.
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***************************************************
/Greg

BlowsMeAway Productions
See my Customer Mics album on Facebook
BlueState - my band
Bluestate on iTunes

Last Edited by Greg Heumann on Dec 28, 2013 8:13 AM
blueswannabe
392 posts
Dec 27, 2013
6:41 PM
I can attest to Greg's fine workmanship. He put a switchcraft connector on a green bullet mic for me. Very well done and very secure.He has also installed a nicely machined connector on a shure commando, and disassembled and put back together in working condition a vintage shure 545 element.

I have personally ruined some mics that I have tried to customize. You need the tools, patience and experience.

Also, With regards to turner shells. I chopped one as well, sanded down the fin and edges where the stem was located and drilled 2 holes, one for the volume control and one for a switchcraft connector. First, the metal where the switchcraft connecter would be is too thin for threads. I used a heavy duty lock washer which I installed form inside the shell. Also, I screwed up the diameter size of the volume control hole. Moreover, after using jb weld, sanding, priming, spray painting repeated layers, the paint did not hold. I used too much primer and did not allow for enough drying time between coats. I had to start from the beginning (bare metal) 3 times and finally gave up and accepted the fact that I am not good at this type of thing. So I sent the bare shell (after sanding and stripping) to someone who knows how to powder coat and use bondo. The mic came out beautifully after that. I did have to install the VC and Connectore my self (still not easy given the curvature of the shell and the size of the lock washer and threads (which were minimal for the nut to catch. All in all a frustrating experience. When all was said and done with the materials (VC, switchcraft adapter, primer, paint, sanding paper, jb weld, powder coat, knob for vc control, shell, gasket for element, element), you are better off buying it on ebay already constructed.

Last Edited by blueswannabe on Dec 27, 2013 7:04 PM


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