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Dirty-South Blues Harp forum: wail on! >
How do you finish off a post-switchcraft Mic?
How do you finish off a post-switchcraft Mic?
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Larrystick
47 posts
Nov 05, 2013
5:43 AM
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I'm wondering how you guys finish off the locking nut hole after installing a Switchcraft screw-on connector in a mic? Stock mics have plenty of metal to hold a screw or hex nut (like this Biscuit), but after I drill and tap the shell for the Switchcraft on a 520, there's very little shell metal left for a nut.
I've used blue lock-tite on the Switchcraft, so it's not really going anywhere, but I sure would like a clean way to finish off that hole. Bondo? glue? solder? JB-Weld?
I thought about drilling into the Switchcraft, and installing a hex screw, but I'm afraid I might dislodge the ground wire that's soldered inside.
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Stickman from walkthatwalk.org
Last Edited by Larrystick on Nov 05, 2013 5:45 AM
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Harpaholic
417 posts
Nov 05, 2013
9:24 AM
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I drill and tap that hole and use a 6/32 or 8/32 set screw that's 1/4" long. The way I wire the 2501 with a pos and neg attached to the 2501 and the method I use to secure them will not interfere with the set screw.
You can use JB only if your going to paint the shell, but the set screw helps secure the 2501 since the threads are very fine compared to standard 3/8" thread.
Last Edited by Harpaholic on Nov 05, 2013 9:25 AM
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Greg Heumann
2447 posts
Nov 05, 2013
10:15 AM
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If the initial hole size for the connector is proper (#Q drill) and properly tapped for the connector threads, there is no need for a set screw to secure it. Nor is a set screw a good way to secure a loose connector.
If you want a custom Chip Foose look then fill the hole after the connector is installed with some automotive surfacing putty, and paint. Otherwise - just leave it.
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/Greg
BlowsMeAway Productions
See my Customer Mics album on Facebook
BlueState - my band
Bluestate on iTunes
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Harpaholic
419 posts
Nov 05, 2013
10:55 AM
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As I said a 3/8-32 is a fine thread, and unless your using a jig of some sort, drilling and tapping the hole will not come out perfect, the hole will be sloppy. That is why I rethread the 2501 and retap the hole for course thread.
I'm not saying it won't work, I've done dozens that way, but I have a few more methods to ensure it will never come loose besides a set screw and locktite.
Most mic builders use a set screw because it is already utilized that way from the factory, and it gives it a cleaner look when powder coating.
Last Edited by Harpaholic on Nov 05, 2013 11:19 AM
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Greg Heumann
2449 posts
Nov 05, 2013
4:20 PM
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OK, maybe I'm a screw-on connector installation snob - but as far as I'm concerned the only proper way to install one is to use its existing 3/8-32 threads, and properly drill/tap the shell for that thread. You WANT a good tight fit so you can tighten the connector and it will not only stay but make good electrical contact. If not, loctite can literally insulate the connector from the shell. That happened to me once before I had developed all the techniques I use now, and its one of the reasons I did! Yes you need a jig to hold the shell for drilling and tapping. You also need a way to hold the connector securely without damaging its 5/8-27 threads so you can tighten it properly into the shell. That's how I do them and I've probably done 100 or more. Never had a failure. Coarser threads are deeper threads and will compromise the wall thickness of the connector, making it not only looser (bad) but weaker (bad). Just saying….
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***************************************************
/Greg
BlowsMeAway Productions
See my Customer Mics album on Facebook
BlueState - my band
Bluestate on iTunes
Last Edited by Greg Heumann on Nov 05, 2013 4:22 PM
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