johnnycajon
1 post
Jun 11, 2013
6:38 AM
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Hi
First off - Apologies for the long message.
I’m planning on visiting the southern US states in early October. I’m a relatively street wise 40 something bloke living in Bristol in the UK but originally from Liverpool and I’m a big blues nut. It will be my first time in the US.
I’m a drummer who has recently started playing blues harmonica with the aid of a local harp teacher and Adam Gussow’s training videos. It’s a big change from drumming and I’m loving it. I’m learning to read music again and I’m also studying music theory.
Anyway, for a while now I’ve been thinking of taking a musical odyssey to the heart of the music I love. Playing the harmonica this year has finally given me the push to go and do it. The trip will be 2 or 3 weeks long. I’m flying into Nashville and then heading west to Memphis before taking the Great River route south via Clarksdale to New Orleans.
Contrary to most fly-drivers, I won’t be hiring a car; I’m planning to take the bus as I’ll be on my own, and I want to take the opportunity to meet new people and rely on good ole serendipity for a nice change. I’m gonna be a harp-playing fly-busser.
So, at this point I’ll be really interested in hearing from anyone who has done similar trips or who may have suggestions for me on the road, places and clubs to go, bands to see, places to avoid, etc. I’ll be taking a harp with me on the off chance I can pick up some local teaching/jamming sessions and I’ll also be looking to purchase my first pair of Cuban heels. I love those style of boots but can’t find them here in the UK.
I appreciate any feedback on my planned trip.
Adios
Johnnycajon
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groyster1
2263 posts
Jun 11, 2013
1:46 PM
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I highly recommend the king biscuit blues festival in Helena Arkansas not far from Clarksdale....2nd weekend in october
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tookatooka
3337 posts
Jun 11, 2013
2:05 PM
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Sounds like a great adventure Johnny. Wish I could have done something like that.
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slowblowfuse
66 posts
Jun 12, 2013
1:06 AM
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While you're there in Helena, check out the local shoe store cum stray cat shelter.... You might find your boots there... Prepare to spend time chatting with the adorable folks running the place.... Hope you like cats...
Enjoy! I made a trip from Memphis down to NOLA and back and it was totally awesome!
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Skinny Dog
Last Edited by slowblowfuse on Jun 12, 2013 1:08 AM
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Littoral
916 posts
Jun 12, 2013
8:40 AM
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This: king biscuit blues festival
I made that part of a similar sojurn I made in the early 90's.
Your bus plan, I don't recommend that. Our bus stations will often put you right where you don't want to be, street wise or not. Seriously.
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LSC
443 posts
Jun 12, 2013
5:06 PM
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Yeah, bus stations in America in 2013, not such a good idea, especially for a tourist. It's like you've got "Victim" branded on your ass.
Besides, having your own transportation gives you much more freedom to explore and take advantage of the moment, like being invited to someone's house for a jam or a meal. You see something cool or someone recommends a place you don't have to worry about how you're going to get there. And keep in mind, both car hire and petrol are much cheaper in the States and there are fly/drive deals to be had.
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LSC
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Rick Davis
1950 posts
Jun 12, 2013
5:40 PM
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Tour the Blues Highway.
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-Rick Davis
The Blues Harp Amps Blog
The Mile High Blues Society
Tip Jar
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hooktool
32 posts
Jun 12, 2013
8:00 PM
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I live in Nashville. We maybe could offer you a bed for a night or two, if I'm not traveling, let me know the dates. We do live out from town a bit, so you wouldn't be walking or catching the bus anywhere. There is some blues music here, and depending on your luck, a lot of major folks in all genres come through and play some nice venues-clubs etc. There are dozens of choices on any night that may, or may not, interest one.
MEGA BUS is a relatively new outfit here in parts of the US with some pretty nice big ass busses-WIFI etc, and they run a lot of CHEAP promotional fares, so you might look into it. I doubt they are much worse than what's in the UK-I have been on some funky ones there. But we don't have the train service you have except in a few areas, primarily northeast.
As pointed out, a car and gas is pretty cheap, though driving in some places might be a bit of a thrill.
I'll be in Leicestershire in August.
I hope it all comes together for you.
John
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slowblowfuse
67 posts
Jun 13, 2013
2:20 AM
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Good point about the buses... I'd absolutely try to rent a small car. Hanging out at a bus terminal at 2 a.m. is not what you'd prefer.....
Another tip: try to stay at the Blue Shack Inn, just outside Clarksdale for a night or two....
Or if you want to stay near the centre, The Village Hotel is a terrific place to be.
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Skinny Dog
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jbone
1276 posts
Jun 13, 2013
4:05 AM
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That's Shackup Inn. Unless it's changed lately! Another cool place has always been the Riverside Hotel, formerly owned and run by Rat, rest his soul. I believe his daughter now runs it. It's in Clarksdale just down the street from Red's Lounge juke joint.
One other place we like to stay in Clarksdale is the Downtown Motor Inn, a well run slightly funky but cool place. Ground Zero is the hot spot in Cdale these days.
It has been 2 years since we headed to Clarksdale. Some places may have changed.
Of course Helena has the King Biscuit Blues fest every October and this is the best blues fest I have ever been to, but even if you are traveling at a different time it's well worth going down to Cherry Street and stopping in to visit with Sunshine Sonny Payne, who hosts the KFFA radio show King Biscuit Hour every Friday. He's been behind the mic every Friday for over 50 years now! The Delta Museum and Welcome Center are worth spending some time in as well.
One other place, if you are headed for New Orleans. In Zachary Louisiana, just north of Baton Rouge, is Teddy's Juke Joint, which has been a juke for a long time now. I hope it's still open. Teddy is a very colorful character and he and his wife are killer cooks. They feed the bands who come across their stage and it's such a cool venue. Lots of history there.
I know this is off the usual beaten path but I am in 2 duos and a band here in Little Rock and we are doing all we can to keep greasy 50's to 70's blues alive. Jawbone and Jolene are working on some new gigs and the new cd material. Jawbone and Bluesboy Jag, with and without the Juke Joint Zombies, are playing every joint that will let us in. Our current tilt is toward swing blues ala TBone Walker, Eddie Vinson, and others. And Little Rock has a lot of touristy stuff like the Clinton Library, the River Market area, and some other cool historic stuff.
No matter when you come Johnny, let us know and those of us who can will look for you and show you around!
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http://www.reverbnation.com/jawboneandjolene
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100000386839482
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wa7La7yYYeE
Last Edited by jbone on Jun 22, 2013 7:26 AM
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johnnycajon
2 posts
Jun 13, 2013
5:30 AM
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You guys are fantastic. Thanks for your offers and for sharing your knowledge, support and wisdom. I'll take it all into account. Booking my flight on saturday from London to Nashville. Incidentally, I've been invited to write an article about this adventure for a magazine called Harmonicas World run by the National Harmonica League here in the UK. I'll be mentioning all the good vibes I've gotten from you guys on this forum.
Cheers for now
Johnny
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GamblersHand
437 posts
Jun 13, 2013
6:34 AM
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I traveled by Greyhound from New Orleans to Memphis back in 99. American friends were alarmed by this transport choice but I found it colourful rather than dangerous. ok, make that "very colourful".
The highlight was meeting a drummer about to go on tour with Johnnie Taylor - he'd played with BB, Albert King, even Aretha (had the photos to prove), who then gave me a blues history/commentary on route to Clarkesdale.
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slowblowfuse
68 posts
Jun 13, 2013
6:39 AM
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You're totally right jbone..... I got the names wrong.... apologies....
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Skinny Dog
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HarveyHarp
478 posts
Jun 13, 2013
7:16 AM
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New Orleans! What can I say! Its a must. Contact me.
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HarveyHarp
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johnnycajon
3 posts
Jun 21, 2013
3:20 AM
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Thanks for all the info guys.
groyster1 - I've bought a ticket for KB festival.
slowblowfuse - Thanks for the advice. I'll make sure I check out the store and hotels in Clarksdale.
Littoral and LSC - I hear ya. I've booked a car. I like the idea of living for the moment too and a car will make this easier to do.
Rick Davis - Some good spots on this route. Wish I had longer than 2 weeks.
hooktool - Thanks for the offer of accommodation.
I fly into Nashville on Thursday 3rd October and head to Memphis on Sunday 6th. I've booked a car so I'm mobile. I live in Bristol which, I'm sure you know, is south and west from Leicestershire. About 100 miles away I suppose. Please get in touch if you are planning any excursions my way. The offer of accommodation is reciprocated. I see you're a wood turner. I'm a bit of an artist and writer as well. I'm working on some Canadian First Nations pieces at the moment.
jbone - Thanks for all that great info on hotels, hangouts and museums. I'll make sure I try and meet up with Sunshine Sonny Payne. He might be interested in meeting a son of Liverpool with a Beatles accent. Ha ha. I'll see if I can make Little Rock but as I only have 2 weeks it might be a struggle to fit it all in. I'll check out your music too. Your scene sounds ace.
GamblersHand - Nice story mate. I like your thinking about the bus but I think the car will give me a bit more freedom to come and go which is kinda my style anyway.
HarveyHarp - Thanks for the contact request. I'm gonna be in NOLA from Sunday 13th. I'll contact you via email.
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hooktool
35 posts
Jun 21, 2013
7:34 PM
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I will be home that week. Glad to offer you a bed in a 200 year old farm house. We are 20 minutes from the airport, and its an easy 15-20 minutes into downtown Nashville. You need to see a little real country music stuff while you are here-the Ryman Auditorium, and a few of the old bars like Tootsies. As it gets closer, its not hard to find out what kind of live music will be around that week.
PM when you want and I'll give you my contact info. Not sure of my plans in the UK. I was planning to stay and visit around a week or so, but if I keep it short, I can probably get to SPAH. I've been to the UK several times, but never SPAH. :)
John
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Littoral
921 posts
Jun 23, 2013
5:37 AM
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I've done a lot of the trip you're planning and it's a great one. Good that you got a car. I can say that it's often a search to find the venues/experiences that you are looking for. The best is about being there at the right time and that takes the right recommendations, there's plenty of pretenders. There no place is like Louisiana, you don't have look hard to find the real thing there, and the food is as good as it gets anywhere on earth.
On the weekend after the King Biscuit Fest (I saw the line-up, do NOT miss Selwyn Birchwood there on Thur) is the Fifth Annual Pat Ramsey Benefit at the Bradfordville Blues Club in Tallahassee. I'm not sure what the line-up will be for that show but given that Pat was Ricci's biggest influence it'll be good.
Here's what the Keeping the Blues Alive Organization said about the Bradfordville Blues Club:
It may be the coolest juke joint experience outside Mississippi. Drive down a secluded dirt road through fields of cornstalks and massive Spanish-moss-covered live oaks until you see the glowing, cinder block juke in the distance and you’ve found it. Featuring live blues every Friday and Saturday night since 1964, the BBC has hosted blues royalty like Bobby “Blue” Bland, Bobby Rush, Jimmy Rogers, Pinetop Perkins, Little Milton, James Cotton, Nappy Brown, Ms. Lavelle White, Kenny Neal, Big Jack Johnson, E.C. Scott, Maria Muldaur, Son Seals, and a host of others. When the music gets too hot, you can always go outside to join the crowd surrounding the roaring bonfire (a rarity in today’s world) or listen to the blues from the bonfire stage. New owners Gary and Kim Anton took over the club eight years ago and have worked hard to change little.
Last Edited by Littoral on Jun 23, 2013 5:38 AM
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johnnycajon
5 posts
Jun 23, 2013
9:10 AM
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Hooktool - Thanks again for the offer. Your 200 year old farmhouse sounds ace. I've been doing some research on Nashville and apart from everything else I love the sound of the indie scene there, what with Grimey's and Third Man etc. Tootsies is on my agenda and any other tips are welcome. Also, Roberts Western World sounds authentic from a historical POV. The Black Cab Sessions (intimate band sessions in the back of a black London cab), which I think are terrific, did a great little series over in the US and one of the shows was dedicated to Nashville. https://vimeo.com/23215543
Littoral - The Bradfordville Blues club sounds fantastic and right up my street, or down my secluded dirt road if you'll pardon me stealing your words. Also, I like a good bonfire. If I didn't have access to all this wealth of knowledge, the trip wouldn't be near as good as it's gonna be. I can never get over how good the internet can be for bringing folk together. Thanks for the tip off about Selwyn Birchwood. I'll make a point to catch him. I have a ticket for all 3 days but might need to cut short to fit in the blues club in Tallahassee as well.
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The Iceman
939 posts
Jun 23, 2013
10:17 AM
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These harmonica chat lists are a great way to travel the world.
Harp-L opened up my last trip to Europe. I was extended an invitation to stay with a poster for a few days when I landed in Amsterdam. Not only was the room free, but he spent a few days taking me around to Museums and blues clubs.
His name was Jerome Blaines, but this is a totally open house European trait amongst those that live over there....to open up themselves and their abodes to make your experience a memorable one.
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The Iceman
Last Edited by The Iceman on Jun 24, 2013 4:31 AM
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