Opus314
3 posts
Jun 09, 2013
4:16 PM
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OK, I think I'm ready to try some customization...
burnishing and gapping are the two customization tricks I know about... (are there others?)
Anyway, what tools do I need?
Thanks for any help.
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Thievin' Heathen
211 posts
Jun 09, 2013
4:38 PM
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Though I have not got around to it yet, I think Richard Sleigh's book is probably a must have.
Something which I have found very useful and quite forgiving when tweaking on reads is a set of nylon screwdrivers. The ones used for tweaking on TV's and other live electronic devices.
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arzajac
1072 posts
Jun 09, 2013
4:57 PM
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Fundamental harp tweaking:
A) Making the harp airtight
- Making the comb flat (and moisture-proof so that it stays flat)
- Making the reedplates flat. The draw plate is easily sanded down. The blow plate requires every reed be taken off and then put back on. You don't really need to do this most of the time.
Tools needed: Fine sandpaper and a flat surface like a piece of glass. Water-based varnish to seal wooden combs.
B) Ensuring each reed has the proper profile. As much as possible, the whole reed must enter the slot at the same time.
Tools needed: Toothpicks will do. There are more efficient and more comfortable tools, too. Metal shim or another object for plinking.
C) Gapping to the user's preference. The goal here is consistency from top to bottom.
Tools needed: Same as reed shaping.
D) Tuning (also dependent on the user's breath force). When you blow an octave or a chord, the hair on the back of your neck should stand up. It should sound rich and emphasize the tonic.
Tools needed: Chromatic tuner or an audio source (like a piano), reed support (paper slip or metal shim) and a file or engraver.
-- If you stop here and master the above, you are good to go! You will be able to make yourself excellent harps that have awesome tone and response.
Advanced harp skills:
A) Advanced reed shaping. As much as possible, the whole reed must enter the slot at the same time. (You have no idea to what level you can get this. It takes a lot of time and effort. I have a callous on my left index finger because of this.)
Tools needed: Basically the same as above. You need proper lighting and a quiet place to work. Patience.
B) Embossing. There's a reason I didn't mention it until now. If you think embossing will be effective without having done the above, you will be disappointed. Light embossing is great. Medium embossing is great. Heavy embossing is only really needed for high-end harps and it makes the harp sound really bright - a lot of people don't like this. Some do. The more you emboss, it becomes exponentially more work.
Tools needed: It depends on the strategy you chose. At first you will spend most of your time spent embossing on getting your reeds unstuck. The goal should be to spend most of your time embossing and very little time unsticking.
C) Reed replacement. You will need to know how to replace reeds well, cheap and fast.
Tools needed: Again, lots of options. Invest in a drill press and use the screw method. Use the rivet method if you want speed. 'nuff said.
D) Problem solving. The ability to not only realise that a harp, or one hole, or one reed is not performing as it should, but the ability to address the problem without wasting time or making things worse.
Tools needed: Good ears. Good embouchure.
That's pretty much off the top of my head. I'm sure I've forgotten something...
If you asked me what's the one thing that turns a harp into a sound-cannon, I would say it's reed shape.
Edited to add:
Basic tools
Flat, Phillips and Pozidriv screwdrivers. Extra screws (M2 and M1.6 is what is used on most harps) M2 Nuts.
Crazy/Superglue can often be nice to have handy.
BlueTak has a million uses (like sticking some to a flat head screwdriver and picking up a screw without having to hold it with your fingers)
Dremel (rotary tool).
Bench grider.
CNC mill.... LOL!
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Last Edited by arzajac on Jun 09, 2013 5:34 PM
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robbert
207 posts
Jun 09, 2013
5:53 PM
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Nice synopsis. I just might print that out and put it over my work table for when I DO work on the occasional harp! Thanks, Andrew.
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Kingley
2740 posts
Jun 09, 2013
10:32 PM
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Arzajac - That's a great list Andrew. Yet another very helpful resource you have provided to the community. More good karma points for you on this one. Only thing I'd add is bucket loads of patience. Because in the "Advanced harp skills" section a lot of those things can drive a person to the point of madness sometimes.
On another note, yesterday I found my long lost M2 tap! Whoohoo! Marine Bands with screw assembly here we go again.
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jim
1425 posts
Jun 10, 2013
2:15 AM
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Need a toolkit? I have them. jim@seydel1847.com
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Free Harp Learning Center
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chromaticblues
1396 posts
Jun 10, 2013
8:05 AM
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Yes that is a great list arzajac.
Two things on your list that are "questionable".
Well stuff I would not advice people is: 1. A rotory tool is not a good way of tuning harps. It is faster! Not better!
When tuning you should try to remove metal consistantantly across the reed. This way you won't create weak points in the reed.
2. The reed should not go into the slot all at the same time.
Last Edited by chromaticblues on Jun 11, 2013 9:22 AM
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HarpNinja
3351 posts
Jun 10, 2013
8:28 AM
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Start with SP20's. You only need a generic flat head and a Pozi phillips for the reedplate screws. Don't waste time working on MB's and if you must, get MBD's. If you get Xovers, you will have to replace the coverplate screws as they easily strip over time.
Then, if you don't have access to an "official" gapping tool, use a heavy gauge toothpick. Spend the overwhelming bulk of your time shaping the reeds and gapping, then learn to tune.
That will cover the bulk of your needs unless you are trying to get into heavy obing and oding.
Next, get a flat surface, and start flat sanding the draw plate...if you start with SP20's, this is less of a priority, but worth learning.
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Mantra Customized Harmonicas
My Website
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Kingley
2742 posts
Jun 10, 2013
9:30 AM
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I disagree with Mike on customising Marine Band 1896 (Classic) harps. They make the best harps when customised in my opinion. They are also the harp of choice for the vast majority of customisers. Ok so you'll have to drill and tap the harps for screws, but that is an easy thing to do.
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HarpNinja
3352 posts
Jun 10, 2013
9:43 AM
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Using the 1896 as a template for customs is becoming obsolete with the Crossover and MBD....in fact, I stopped taking 1896 orders some time ago (and generally only took XO and MBD orders anyways). I believe Joe Spiers also uses mostly XO's now.
The only benefit as a customizer is that the overhead can be lower if you have invested in the proper tools to convert to screws, which is still problematic if you are going for professional tolerances.
There is absolutely no benefit to playing a modded 1896 in relation to the MBD or XO in regards to playability of newly manufactured harps...unless you are just gapping a 1896 classic and prefer the warmer and breathier tone, or if you are trying to save money.
As a beginner, concentrating on the quality of performance of the harp is better time spent than cosmetics.
***EDIT: The reason why SP20's are a great idea to start on is they cost the same as an MB but don't require comb/cover modification (although you can...I open them up and polish the combs).
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Mantra Customized Harmonicas
My Website
Last Edited by HarpNinja on Jun 10, 2013 9:49 AM
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chromaticblues
1397 posts
Jun 10, 2013
9:47 AM
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I totally agree with working with SP20's and crossovers! Both great harps and easy to work on.
Why make it hard when it doesn't have to be?
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HarpNinja
3353 posts
Jun 10, 2013
9:48 AM
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I should note that while most customizers can get lower prices on parts, the cost of XO reed plates and covers is nearly the cost of a full harp....which is around double that of a MB.
It costs WAY less to customize a MB with an aftermarket comb than the same comb on a XO.
Besides cost, up until a few years ago, it was hard to find a harp you could flat sand. Most harps had plastic molded combs, whereas the MB had wood. It is also the most popular harmonica in the world, so it made sense to work on them.
That is part of the reason I do next to no GM work now...hardly anyone asks about ordering them even though they turn out fantastic - even for blues players.
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Mantra Customized Harmonicas
My Website
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arzajac
1073 posts
Jun 10, 2013
10:40 AM
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I just bought a second drill press yesterday. It really helps to have a good one. I bought it used and it cost less than a Crossover (Ha!)
I can convert an MB to screws in less than 15 minutes. Except for one time when I broke a bit while drilling a reedplate, I have had excellent results with every hole positioned as it should. With that in mind, the cost savings of working on Classic Marine Bands instead of Deluxes or Crossovers is quite significant.
But I've invested a lot of time and gotten a lot of tools to do the job right. So you can argue the point either way.
The way I see it is if someone wants a custom MB, I can give it to them. If they prefer a Custom Crossover, that's fine too. It's the customer's choice, not mine.
GMs are fine harps. I just got the new price list today and there's only a two dollar difference between an off-the-shelf GM and an MB.
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Last Edited by arzajac on Jun 10, 2013 10:40 AM
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SmokeJS
107 posts
Jun 10, 2013
10:48 AM
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HarpNinja polished SP20 combs. Could someone define that for me and let me know the benefit?
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Opus314
4 posts
Jun 10, 2013
6:10 PM
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I thought it might be helpful to try and summarize Arzajac's tool list below...
It looks like quite a tool kit but I had a few questions...
Questions:
1 - Unsure which 'reed shaping tools C refers to... (A2 possibly?)
2 - unsure what A2) "same as above" refers to...
3 - B2 - no actual tool(s) mentioned for embossing
A) Airtight:
- Fine sandpaper
- Flat surface
- Water-based varnish
B) Reed Profile:
- Toothpicks
- or Metal shim
- or another object for plinking.
C) Gapping:
- Same as reed shaping ??
D) Tuning:
- Chromatic tuner
- or an audio source (like a piano)
- reed support (paper slip or metal shim)
- file or engraver
- Advanced harp skills -
A2) Advanced reed shaping:
- Basically the same as above ??
- Proper lighting
- Quiet place to work
- Patience.
B2) Embossing:
- No actual tools referenced
- (or did I miss 'em?)
C2) Reed replacement:
- Drill press
- screw method or rivet method
D2) Problem solvingL
- Good ears
- Good embouchure.
- Edited to add -
Basic tools:
- Flat, Phillips and Pozidriv screwdrivers
- Extra screws (M2 and M1.6)
- M2 Nuts
- Crazy/Superglue
- BlueTak
- Dremel (rotary tool)
- Bench grider
- CNC mill (Ha!)
thanks arzajac and others for your comments.
and Jim, I'll email you.
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arzajac
1074 posts
Jun 10, 2013
7:51 PM
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Opus, Don't get too bogged down with details. I did leave a few things vague on purpose. There are a million ways to accomplish tasks. I thought it would be more useful to lay out the overview of what tasks you need to accomplish and give you some general ideas of what kinds of tools you can use.
The tools don't have to be expensive or fancy. Pick out a task you want to master and figure out which method you want to use to get the job done, then find the tools.
...Oh! Speaking of specific tools. I forgot to mention a dual-head reed wrench... Very useful. Embossing, reed replacement, general troubleshooting.
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Last Edited by arzajac on Jun 10, 2013 7:59 PM
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Kingley
2744 posts
Jun 10, 2013
9:53 PM
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Arzajac makes a very good point about not getting bogged down in details. It's easy to do very good work with very simple tools.My current tool kit consists of a Swiss Army knife (Spartan model), two screwdrivers, a file, a piece of paper, an old socket and a paper clip. I use either my phone or my laptop as a chromatic tuner.
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the_happy_honker
151 posts
Jun 11, 2013
12:08 AM
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A reed wrench and a small light box is useful for centering reeds prior to embossing
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