I better learn to repair my own. I can't handle the idea of writing off a harp because of 1 cracked reed. I'm playing marine band types. Best to rivet the replacement reed or tap and screw? What special tools do I need? Thank you. ----------
1. As MP does, recycle the old rivet. 2. Replace a reed with a new rivet. 3. Replace with a screw.
My two cents: method #1 Often works, but sometimes does not. I wouldn't use it as my only method for reed replacement. Method #2 - This is the fastest method to execute once you get proficient at it (about 90 seconds total). Takes a long time to learn. Not the best method for someone who only will replace a few reeds per year. Method #3 - The longest to execute (5 minutes or more) but the method that requires the least practice to master. Hard to "screw it up"! You will need a few drill bits and a tap as well as very small screws. This is the most expensive method (new rivet costs 2 cents, tiny screw can cost 50 cents or more...) This is the ideal method for someone who doesn't plan on doing more reed replacements than their own harps.
I would learn #3 first. Then, go for method #1 and if you miss and muck things up, you can rescue the replacement effort with method #3.
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Last Edited by arzajac on May 16, 2013 5:58 PM
Here is a video demo of the current Seydel tool. Seydel buys them from me and I have a few slightly different models on hand, including one with a larger receiver hole for rivets with bigger heads. You will also need flush cut pliers, a punch for tapping the reeds back in, a rotary tool to tune them, and a reed wrench to center. It would also help to have some feeler gauge.
In the rare case I change out a non-stainless reed, I sometimes screw up and over-size the rivet hole. Before I tap it, I can usually make the hole smaller by going over it with a rounded bunch. I guess you could call it "embossing the rivet hole".
If I didn't handle Seydel repairs, I would just send my stuff to Mark Prados. You have to change out a lot of stuff to make it cost effective and his work is top notch, quick, and cheap.
---------- Greg Jones 16:23 Custom Harmonicas greg@1623customharmonicas.com 1623customharmonicas.com
Last Edited by GMaj7 on May 17, 2013 3:02 AM
Embossing the rivet hole.i like it. :0) Yeah I sent stuff to Mark one time, and loved his work, but he doesn't really like doing international jobs and it is pretty pricey in the post. And for currency exchange. I haven't found anyone doing the work at an affordable rate over here though so I think it's DIY time. That's ok. I ordered some seydel tools today. I have a few clunkers to practice on, but also a couple of crossovers that have come to grief, one through careless play, the other through clumsy handling. The capital outlay for tools will be pretty much offset by mending those 2 crossovers...they are RRP $90 in Australia, best price is around $80 plus postage... ----------
Hmm...my reed bank isn't very big. I found the reed I want, unfortunately it is one which has already been replaced, deformed rivet. Looks like I'm gonna have to use a screw. ----------
I'd love to see how you are going to hammer a rivet into a super-precise-microscope-customized reedplate. The kind that goes totally busted after falling to floor.
I use screws at Suzuki, of course . . . But at home, I usually use the rivet that is already in place in a donor reed, unless I am working on a Suzuki. I recently got some new replacement Special 20 reeds from Hohner (just draw 4 and 5 in a few keys) and they did not come with rivets, so they will get screwed (ha).
I will be upgrading my dual-head reed wrench. It will soon have teeth so that you can maneuver a reed in the x and y axis so that you can position it with a screw.
I will be CNC milling them myself out of aluminium which will drop the price.
I've just been looking at tool kits and it seems to me that the Seydel Tool Kit would work on Hohner diatonic harps and is about half the price of the Hohner Instant Workshop Tool Kit. Am I right in my thinking?
I have a few for sale that will work on MS reeds. It has to do with the receiver hole and I have a couple 1.7s that will work. ---------- Greg Jones 16:23 Custom Harmonicas greg@1623customharmonicas.com 1623customharmonicas.com
"I would learn #3 first. Then, go for method #1 and if you miss and muck things up, you can rescue the replacement effort with method #3."
i would agree except for the fact that MB type harmonicas don't accept the screw post method (ala B-Rads) on the draw plates. the screws hit the comb so you either have to cut a relief into the comb, or put the screw in upside down, cut the excess screw, and forget about using the star nut. oh, and file the screw flush w/ the plate. NO Thanks! screws are never a problem on other Hohners and w/ Seydels.
you will run into problems no matter what method you use. even w/ screws, sometimes reeds will be out of alignment and need to be adjusted w/ tons and tons of patience.
good on yah SuperBee. Greg knows his stuff. Andrew too. Jim has an excellent video on the screw post method. MP affordable reed replacement and repairs.
"making the world a better place, one harmonica at a time"
click user name [MP] for info- repair videos on YouTube. you can reach me via Facebook. Mark Prados
That's just what I did, screw in with head on top of the reed, cut off the excess and file flush. I need a better way to cut the screw off...a hardened cutter I guess. Anyway, the filing was easy enough. Aligning the reed was a pill though. It came into tune ok with plenty of plinking, but the reed is a little quiet compared to the rest. Not sure why that would be. It's playable but in an arpeggio you can pick that its a little quieter. When I pointed it out to my daughter, she could tell but its not so much that you'd necessarily notice immediately. ----------
