kham
142 posts
Mar 29, 2018
9:13 AM
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This is meant to be a harmonica centric travel report and reality check for those who wish to visit the cradle of civilization and most ancient place known as Iran.
In 2005-2006 I rode my bicycle from Portugal - Vietnam over 22,000 kms with a harmonica racked while I rode, more often than not. Of that I cycled 2200 kms through Iran from Turkey into Pakistan through more than 1000 kms of desert, 110 degree Fahrenheit days, rammed earth homes, mosques and ancient cities.
My experience was nothing short of amazing. I bared witness to day after day of the most outstanding hospitality. When folks heard a blue eyed white boy like me pass on a bicycle with the sound of a harmonica they scratched there eyes and cleared their ears. I received nothing but friendly hellos and huge smiles.
I was taken into people's homes 90% of the time that I spent there and was treated like a member of the family. I wasn't able to get accommodations in hotels because I would be taken into someone's house before I got to that point or (and this is the most unbelievable part of my story) I would camp in the middle of the city in the middle of the park and no one including the police would bother me. It was very bizarre and I wouldn't recommend doing this in any major city other then in Iran. More often than not folks I met would openly debate over who was going to take me home and feed me before I went on my way. If I arrived late at night after dark I soon realized you could just pitch a tent anywhere in a downtown park and no one would ask any questions or look at you funny. Truly unique and a bit unnerving at first.
Getting to the harmonica part of the experience. When I played harmonica people were amazed at the sound coming out of it and would get me to play to everyone they introduced me to. Folks took lots of pictures.
I was made to fear my whole trip by everybody here in Canada and the U.S. because of the more than often negative news cycles. I am pleased to say all the travel reports I read and all the experiences I had were the exact opposite of what I was told I would experience. Like everywhere, Iranians on mass dislike their government and love their country.
I would recommend to anyone with an open mind and a love for history to travel their. Even today googling travel reports indicates a few spots to avoid and multiple stories of amazing adventures and overwhelming positive experiences from people brave enough to experience life on their own instincts and curiosity.
I'm happy to share harmonica stories like this from all over the world if anyone comes down to Dunnville Ontario (harmonica retreat June 22nd-24th) or wants to personally message me.
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jbone
2528 posts
Mar 29, 2018
12:58 PM
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Man that is a really fine and great story Kham. Thank you for sharing it. I have my doubts I will ever get there but it's so good to know people there are much alike in their hopes, dreams, and willingness to welcome those from other cultures.
I'd like to hear more about your adventure.
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6SN7
796 posts
Mar 29, 2018
1:14 PM
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great stuff Kham. i have travelled quite a bit and my harmonicas have been a gateway to friendship in many different countries. Thank you for sharing your wonderful experiences.
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SuperBee
5351 posts
Mar 29, 2018
1:30 PM
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Great to hear your first hand account Kham. As you say, there are numerous stories which attest to the hospitality of Iranian people. The Iranian expats I’ve met in Australia through my work have treated me very kindly in their homes also.
Did you speak Farsi?
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bonedog569
1101 posts
Mar 29, 2018
2:28 PM
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Love love love it. Thanks for sharing. Makes me want to visit Iran. The Persians I have met here (in US) have all seemed like big hearted soulful people. Did you try to play anything like Persian music for or with them? Did you jam at all?
I had a similar experience in Cuba last year. It really helped me engage with people on the street - as will as jamming in bars and restaurants.
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SkullKid
111 posts
Mar 29, 2018
3:18 PM
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Good read and sounds like an awesome experience indeed! Thanks for sharing!
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Crawforde
166 posts
Mar 29, 2018
3:57 PM
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Awesome story!
I’d like to hear more.
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AppalachiaBlues
144 posts
Mar 29, 2018
11:27 PM
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Fantastic!!! Thank you for posting.
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Old Clem
1 post
Mar 30, 2018
12:37 AM
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Cool.
Last Edited by Old Clem on Mar 30, 2018 7:46 AM
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Kingley
4086 posts
Mar 30, 2018
1:00 AM
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What a really great adventure kham. Such a wonderful experience to live and be able to look back upon in later years.
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STME58
2062 posts
Mar 30, 2018
12:11 PM
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Thank you for that first hand report. We need more "news cycles" like yours!
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kham
144 posts
Apr 17, 2018
8:39 AM
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OT:
Two other interesting stories. The day we got into Iran, my brother had some serious diarrhea leftover from Turkey. A man asked us if we needed help. We followed him (on our bicycles) in his car to the hospital. My brother got some kind of stopper medication and the man then brought us to a hotel. He asked us if we needed anything else and this is where I did arguably the dumbest thing in my life. We needed to exchange money and there is no international banking system in Iran meaning that you can't directly withdraw rial (their currency) from an ATM. I gave this man 500 USD and he said I will be right back. I said i'd prefer to go with you and he said don't worry you have nothing to fear. I'll be right back. At the time $2000 USD per year was the average income in Iran. He left and I let him. I looked at my brother, who also said nothing, and said, "that's the blindest faith I've ever had." 20 minutes later he was back and counted out every rial. Amazing honourable people that don't like their gov't or politics. Just like us! One other funny cultural thing in Iran. 90% of the time I would get invited into someone's house. WHen you get a bit south of Tehran there is this cultural thing where you are offered drugs when you visit someone's home. When asked, "Would you like some hashish, beer, whiskey, opium, marijuana", etc... I would often say would love a beer as alcohol is prohibited in Iran. At that point they would say I'll be right back and leave to go and get some black market booze for their beloved guest. Before they ran out I would then ask, "What do you have on hand?" Then I would enjoy the cultural or acceptable house poison. Oh yeah then I would play harmonica for them while enjoying the local libation. Made for interesting musical direction. Fun times.
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FastFourier
64 posts
Apr 17, 2018
10:02 AM
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Hashish, beer, whiskey, opium, and marijuana? Now that's what I call a civilized country!
Last Edited by FastFourier on Apr 17, 2018 10:02 AM
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BeePee
73 posts
Apr 17, 2018
9:25 PM
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Great story, thanks for sharing - as others have said, we need more good-news tales like yours in these fractious, belligerent times. I've never been to Iran but become friends with some Iranian expats here in England, warm people.
I've also fallen in love with Iranian music. One of my heroes is Kayhan Kalhor, the great Kamanche player. Have a listen to the soul he gets out of every note:
https://youtu.be/bBW-5lYBycM
Another Iranian maestro is the great singer Shajarian, who combines incredible vocal skills with deep feeling:
https://youtu.be/Ye6d4zXdtUc
I can't understand a word but the emotion in his every syllable goes straight to my gut.
Did you connect with any Iranian musicians on your trip?
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kham
145 posts
Apr 21, 2018
6:56 AM
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I encountered very little in the way of live music. A few people could play a little guitar with no serious prowess.
I do have plenty of good news tales of travel stories. I'll just say this (as this isn't a travel website), having gone through all these "crazy" places where the average North American said, "Are you crazy? You're gonna get killed." The only place I've ever been physically assaulted was in my home town of Hamilton Ontario. Ha! Travel round the world and through areas very much off the beaten path in places with "terrorists"and 2 blocks from my house I got mugged for $80... Go figure.
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