Slobberslinger
7 posts
Dec 06, 2015
2:19 PM
|
Just bought a vintage early '80's, I think,JT30 w/MC101 element. It is in mint condition, in the box with all packaging details. It tested in a vintage Bassman amp,it's definitely a strong element. My problem is this: the wooden part of the stand Very tight in its hole in the mic. Probably because the black paint was sprayed on the wooden threads and since stuck to the metal threads of the mic hole. I'm reasonably strong but I can't break it loose to unscrew. Someone suggested vise grips and a thick cloth,another suggested WD40, I'm very wary of either damaging the wood, finish,as it is in pristine shape. What should I do?
|
barbequebob
3062 posts
Dec 07, 2015
11:20 AM
|
Avoid yanking and just simply turn it counter clockwise because in the shell where the stand is mounted have threads and yanking it would be a useless, very dumb thing to be doing.
BTW, an MC101 is much older than the 80's ad closer to 50's to mid 60's and most of those elements didn't have as much of a midrange presence rise as would an MC151. The ceramic equivalent of the MC101 is the MC126.
----------
Sincerely,
Barbeque Bob Maglinte
Boston, MA
http://www.barbequebob.com
CD available at http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/bbmaglinte
|
mr_so&so
979 posts
Dec 07, 2015
1:46 PM
|
I don't know if this will help you at all, but one trick for freeing, e.g., a painted-over screw without stripping the slot, is to tighten it slightly first to break the adhesion, then loosen it.
----------
|
Slobberslinger
8 posts
Dec 07, 2015
5:40 PM
|
Bob, I'm not too sure about the true age of the mic.The only source I found,JT30 Amplified Blues shows photo s of the different labels Astatic used and mine matches the one they classified as 1980's.It is screened on(no rivets),w/:MOD. NO. JT30 on the label(there's no serial #) I have no idea how accurate the info from the website is though.I was expecting an MC126,and so I was quite happy to get the MC101
I also agree yanking on it would be foolish, so far I've tried turning the wood handle,both directions , with one hand and holding the shell with the other.I've also tried turning the wood handle with both hands with my wife gripping the shell in her hands.I've thought of trying to use wd40 squirted with a hypodermic needle between the wood and the hole and letting it absorb.I don't like that idea much either. I'm thinking a bench vise may be my best hope.
|
Barley Nectar
971 posts
Dec 07, 2015
5:47 PM
|
The WD40 will probably swell the wood and make it tighter. You'll probably never put the mic back on the stand so I would not worry about the wood stick too much. Maybe pull the element than use a heat gun on the shell. Not too hot though. Good luck...BN
|
Slobberslinger
9 posts
Dec 07, 2015
6:47 PM
|
True, I don't plan on using the handle.Since I got all of the original packaging/box I wanted to keep everything intact as possible. I plan on keeping the mic properly stored without the stand or handle to preserve the crystal.
|
nacoran
8809 posts
Dec 07, 2015
10:18 PM
|
A vice with a towel, turned 'just' tight enough to hold it and maybe a wrench with a towel, or if you have it one of those strap wrenches.
I haven't tried anything like this, but brainstorming, if you had a toothpick and applied very cautiously a small amount of turpentine right where it's stuck you might be able to clean it.
The heat gun idea might work too, or anything that will warm up the metal directly to expand it. You might try to carefully cut/score the paint where it's stuck with an exacto?
Do you have a picture? I don't know the inside of mics that well. So the stand is sticking into the shell. If you carefully took out the guts would you see the threading on the stand from the inside? Would you be able to apply turpentine there safely without getting it on any paint that would show?
Is the wood fully sealed? If not you might be able to dry it out and loosen it a bit that way. Not sure the best way to dry out wood- I've dried out chives pretty nicely in the oven on the lowest setting over a couple hours. Make sure the electronics are out!
Just thoughts.
----------
Nate
Facebook
Thread Organizer (A list of all sorts of useful threads)
First Post- May 8, 2009
|
mlefree
469 posts
Dec 08, 2015
8:20 AM
|
I use these on stubborn jar lids. They work great for that. One of these would give you tons more leverage.
Jar wrench
If that doesn't work, I'd cut the thing off at the mic' and drill the sucker out. Might have to do a little dental picking but... Depends on how much you want to get it out.
Good luck and please tell us what works for ya,
Michelle
----------
SilverWing Leather - Custom leather creations for musicians and other eccentrics.
|
Slobberslinger
10 posts
Dec 08, 2015
11:57 AM
|
Thanks mlfree, I went to the hardware store and got a strap wrench and after a few attempts I was able to break it free. It wasn't easy getting the rubber strap to grip, it wanted to slip because the handle is tapered and the strap was a bit stiff,but I found the sweet spot at the widest part of the handle just before it sits on top of the base. I 'm not near a bench vice to hold anything,I managed to lock the wrench between my legs and turn the shell with my hands. It was likely the paint was the reason the handle was stuck. While the hole in the shell is threaded,the wood wasn't. I figure it was pressed into the hole while the paint was relatively fresh. so all is good the handle is still clean and undamaged and it will go back into the original box with the base and packaging and the mic into my harp case. Thanks again to all who responded!
|
mlefree
472 posts
Dec 09, 2015
7:53 AM
|
Good on ya, Slobberslinger!
Glad I could help.
Michelle
----------
SilverWing Leather - Custom leather creations for musicians and other eccentrics.
|
