Gravesy
1 post
Nov 24, 2013
7:26 PM
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Hi there, I'm Gravesy and I'm new here, so hello to everyone. I've been playing for a few months now after having spells on and off and have a few harps including a couple of Hohner Pro harps in A & D. I like the D and the A was enjoyable too until the 2 draw went out o tune. Also, I find it airier to play than other harmonicas I own - sort of baggy low end first five. I've read they're supposed to be louder but I wonder if its cos they take more work? Is this airier feel due to the key its in or have I bagged a dud??
(I think I blew the tuning trying a spot of zep) ;-)
I find my s20 in c nice to play and currently saving for s20's in A & D.
OT? Really enjoying chugging along to some old blues harmonica compilations looking for their tricks and techniques to use though treading carefully around the rock to jam with (i don't want Sabbath to kill my harps)I'm 33, a seasoned Rocker and a proud father of two lads. I'm learning harp to hit some old blues and to bring a bit of mouth harp to some original tracks with our rock band.
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jbone
1425 posts
Nov 25, 2013
4:08 AM
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The key of A is one of the lower ones along with G, B, Bb, Low F and Low D. It does take a bit more air to make an a work but is well worth it. A lot of songs are in E so an A harp gives you cross harp or 2nd position.
As for a note acting up, you may have a hair, bit of lint, or other stuff wedged in under the actual reed on the reed plate. You may want to very gently give the harp a lukewarm water rinse. Gently. Then shake it out and try playing it. If that doesn't work you may want to take the cover plates off and then the reed plates, and look at both the draw and blow plates on that hole. If you have a very very thin piece of metal strip like a very fine feeler gauge you can run it under the reed between reed and plate. This may dislodge any foreign matter there. I use the innards of a magnetic security strip found stuck to cd's and dvd's. The metal strips are inside a plastic outer skin and can be cut out with a razor. They are maybe an inch long, 1/4" wide, and 2 or 3 thousandths think.
It's possible you have warped a reed. Stress from over drawing can actually fatigue the brass and in that case leads to tiny fractures in the reed. Reeds can be replaced and there are likely some guys in your area who work on harps at that level. I mostly keep my harps clean and play with less force and more focus. If I do kill a reed I either replace the reed plate if possible or get a new harp.
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http://www.reverbnation.com/jawboneandjolene
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100000386839482
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wa7La7yYYeE
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Gravesy
2 posts
Nov 25, 2013
5:44 AM
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Thanks for the info jbone, much appreciated. I'll try the tips you mentioned although I reckon I buggered the 2 draw reed myself thanks to some over zealous/under skilled sabbath n zep! I tend to play with a bit less force now I have developed a more as a player.
I will be sifting through CD's n DVD's tonight to find one of those security strips for the tool kit!!!
Thanks again. \m/
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arzajac
1211 posts
Nov 25, 2013
6:03 AM
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Hello Gravesy.
MS-series harps like the Pro-Harp are very airy. They are not airtight out-of-the-box. This can lead to you having to work harder and therefore use more force; and that can lead to more blown out reeds.
Reeds can be replaced. As well, the whole harp can be made much more airtight. When you get rid of the leaks, you get a louder, more responsive harp - and better tone, too!
A handful of forum members (including myself) service harps and replace reeds... No need to buy a new harp!
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Custom overblow harps. Harmonica service and repair.
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Gravesy
3 posts
Nov 25, 2013
8:19 AM
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Thanks for the info arzajac. That explains a few things! Are there ways of making them more airtight?? Can you suggest any models that are air tight OOTB? I will check out your link for custom harps later!! Thanks again good Sir. \m/
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arzajac
1213 posts
Nov 25, 2013
10:05 AM
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Hi Gravesy.
Cheap plastic combs are the worst (MS series, Lee Oskar). Sp20 and Seydel plastic combs are excellent - nine out of ten for airtightness.
All stock wooden/bamboo combs can be made airtight by flat sanding them. Out-of-the-box, they are not as flat/airtight as they can be. You can also buy a third-party comb. But before you install the comb, you need to flatsand the draw reed plate or else your harp will probably leak even more than with the original comb.
Once sanded down, it's best to seal the comb so that it's water-resistant.
To flat sand the blow reed plate, you would need to remove all the reeds and then put them back - but that's not something you need to do unless you are making a high-end harp. And flat sanding the draw plate gives dramatic results.
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Custom overblow harps. Harmonica service and repair.
Last Edited by arzajac on Nov 25, 2013 10:05 AM
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Gravesy
5 posts
Nov 25, 2013
3:09 PM
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Thanks arzajac, I'll have a look at the wooden comb on my g harp and see if its worth a quick go on the sander. Working at a builders merchant with a joinery workshop could prove to be a good move on the wood comb side of things. With the Woods of the World at my fingertips and a G template its gotta be worth a shot!?! Mind you, flat sanding the reed plate sounds a little tricky!
Have you any idea what the top manufacturers use to coat their wooden combs? My Mrs works for a specialist coatings firm and quality woods, stains, varnishes etc are things I deal in daily.
Well, in the meantime I'll keep playing special 20's and thank you jbone and arzajac for your advice.
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arzajac
1214 posts
Nov 25, 2013
3:41 PM
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Gravesly,
Look for an environmentally-friendly water-based varnish. High gloss.
Once you've worked hard at making the surfaces flat, you can't just dab on a coat of varnish since that will make things "unflat".
I massage the varnish in a drop at a time. I reckon three drops will cover the whole side. Once rubbed in and dry to the touch, I polish the surface with a lint-free cloth. Three coats and you got a surface off of which a drop of water will bead!
Apply varnish to the inside of the tines first (with a brush). Then do the tips of the tines. Once that's dry, do a final flat sanding of the side and then finish the surface.
It's a lot of work. Yes, there are shortcuts but they compromise flatness.
I don't make wood combs anymore. I would work hard at getting a comb flat and sealed only to find it warped at the end of the process.
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Custom overblow harps. Harmonica service and repair.
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Gravesy
6 posts
Nov 26, 2013
8:38 AM
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Interesting, thank you. I may get one glosslacquered by a sprayer at my wife's work and do one by hand myself and see what happens. They have one of England's most talented sprayers I could utilise!! He certainly knows how to get a perfect finish. Your knowledge should help me alot when I get round to it!
First things first though - I should get better at playing!!
Again - thanks arzajac.
Last Edited by Gravesy on Nov 26, 2013 10:11 AM
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